The Modern
@MOMA
9 W 53rd St.
New York, NY 10019
(212) 333-1220
Official Site
Museum dining and fine dining are pairings far less common than luxury hotels, however there are still a handful of Michelin-starred restaurants located inside museums, including several that have earned the coveted three-star distinction. In New York City, the most famous example is undoubtedly The Modern, housed inside the world-renowned Museum of Modern Art, more commonly known by its recognizable acronym, MoMA.
The Modern is the crown jewel of restaurateur extraordinaire Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, the hospitality empire behind some of New York’s most iconic restaurants including Eleven Madison Park (now owned by Daniel Humm), Gramercy Tavern, Union Square Cafe, and the global burger phenomenon Shake Shack. The restaurant earned its first Michelin star in 2005 during the guide’s inaugural New York City edition under chef Gabriel Kreuther, before receiving its second star in 2015 under chef Abram Bissell. Today, executive chef Thomas Allan has successfully maintained the restaurant’s two-star status since taking over the kitchen in 2020.
Prior to becoming executive chef at The Modern, chef Allan worked at several high-profile New York City restaurants including Eleven Madison Park under Daniel Humm and Per Se before moving to Paris to train under Yannick Alléno at the then three Michelin-starred Le Meurice.
The restaurant has its own dedicated entrance separate from the museum. Upon entering, guests are first greeted by The Bar Room, which operates almost as a separate entity with a more relaxed and casual atmosphere. Beyond that lies the main dining room, which overlooks MoMA’s Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden. Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the room with natural light, brightening the otherwise understated interior. White tablecloths, black leather chairs, and horseshoe-shaped booths give the room a refined elegance, although the space is beginning to show its age and could benefit from a refresh.
The Modern offers several dining options. Lunch features a three-course prix fixe at $115, while dinner offers a five-course menu for $175. Both lunch and dinner also feature the restaurant’s full tasting menu priced at $275, which I opted for during this late lunch visit.
The meal began with two small snacks. The venison tartare horseradish cream was excellent — bright, citrusy, and balanced with just enough horseradish to provide bitterness and spice without overpowering the tartare itself. The potato crumble added a welcome crunch. Meanwhile, the tuna and celery was refreshing and clean with vibrant acidity.
Tasting Menu:
Next came The Modern’s signature dish and undoubtedly its most famous creation: Eggs on Eggs on Eggs. This course, normally a $75 supplement on the prix fixe menu, is included in the tasting menu. The dish combines egg yolk, egg custard, and generous amounts of caviar into one deeply indulgent bite. When mixed together, it becomes extraordinarily decadent and luxurious. It is one of those dishes that fully lives up to its reputation. Served alongside warm brioche toast, which acted as the perfect vessel for scooping every last bit, the restaurant thoughtfully provided an extra piece of toast that was equally delicious on its own.
The Chilled lobster, shiso and green radish followed. The lobster itself was cooked beautifully — firm yet tender — while the paper-thin radish slices added a subtle peppery spice. The shiso vinaigrette brought brightness and citrusy freshness that tied the dish together elegantly. The bread course consisted of Pumpkin seed sourdough and cultured butter. Freshly baked, the bread had a perfectly crackling crust while maintaining a warm and airy interior.
The Grilled madai with crosnes and shishito peppers showcased precise execution. The fish featured beautifully crisp skin with light charred notes while remaining moist and delicate underneath. The accompanying sauce carried a pleasant acidity that complemented the fish. Peas added freshness while the potato and garlic elements grounded the dish.
Another standout was the Seared scallops, white asparagus and beluga lentils. The scallops were prepared wonderfully with a delicate sweetness and mild oceanic brininess. The roasted lentils added earthiness while the parmesan foam and clam brown butter sauce contributed another layer of richness and complexity.
For the main course, I was served Australian wagyu beef,salsify, pickled red cabbage. The wagyu arrived perfectly medium rare with a beautiful rosy center. It was intensely flavorful and exceptionally juicy. The juniper and bacon sauce brought deep savory richness while the pickled cabbage provided enough acidity to balance the fat of the beef. The salsify, with its subtle earthiness, was an excellent accompaniment.
The Hibiscus, coconut, and tarragon palate cleanser was simple yet refreshing. Its chilled temperature and floral brightness acted as a soothing transition into dessert. Dessert was Dark chocolate cremeux, black cherries and almond. The silky chocolate custard paired beautifully with the tartness of the cherries and the crunch of chocolate crumble. Almond ice cream added nuttiness and balance. Afterwards, several petits fours including apricot with orange blossom, guava mandarin, and strawberry bites ended the meal on a high note.
This tasting menu was superb from beginning to end. The cooking was meticulous, technically sound, and consistently polished throughout the entire meal. Some diners may argue that the cuisine plays things safe, however I viewed it instead as disciplined and refined. Each course was thoughtfully composed with flavors that remained approachable without sacrificing sophistication. Ingredient quality was evident throughout the progression.
The sommelier recommended a rosé to begin the meal before transitioning into a Pinot Noir for the latter half of the tasting. Both French wines paired seamlessly with the dishes they accompanied.
Hospitality has always been one of the defining strengths of any Danny Meyer restaurant, and The Modern fully embodies that reputation. From the moment I walked in, the staff were warm, welcoming, and genuinely personable. The servers were polished, knowledgeable, and confidently explained each course while answering questions thoroughly. Despite arriving for a late lunch, there was never any sense of being rushed. The service remained attentive while still feeling relaxed and natural.
Two Michelin-starred restaurants in New York City are never inexpensive, yet The Modern remains relatively wallet-friendly compared to many of its peers. The prix fixe menus, particularly during lunch, are still accessible by fine dining standards. Including several glasses of wine, tax, and tip, my tasting menu came to just under $500 for one person. While certainly expensive, it remains more reasonable than many other two-star establishments in the city where dinner alone can easily surpass $300 before beverages.
Ever since opening, The Modern has consistently remained among New York City’s elite restaurants for more than two decades — a remarkable achievement in one of the most fiercely competitive dining scenes in the world. Over the years, many chefs who passed through its kitchen have gone on to successful careers of their own, further cementing the restaurant’s legacy and influence.
The Modern continues to thrive, and after this visit, I do not see that momentum slowing anytime soon. Its future remains incredibly bright, and the restaurant appears poised to remain a New York dining institution for many more decades to come.
