Telepan
72 W 69th St
New York, NY 10023
212 580 4300
Official Website
*This restaurant is now closed
Manhattan’s Upper West Side is uncharted territory for me; nevertheless it is home to many great dining establishments. Some of the best chefs in New York City have made the UWS their home. Just like Bill Telepan, the owner and Executive Chef of Telepan, a staple of the neighborhood. Bill Telepan is a well known chef in the NYC dining scene and also is an advocate of healthy eating in the NYC public school system. He actively works to eliminate processed food from city schools’ cafeterias. His activism and acclaim as a chef fueled my enthusiasm to dine at Telepan.
Situated in a converted brownstone on 69th Street between Columbus Avenue and Central Park West, on any given day the restaurant is packed with pre and post theater goers as well as locals. Don’t let looks fools you, when I first walked in I thought the place was small but it’s not. And if you are looking for trendy and chic decor this ain’t it. Even Frank Bruni, the former NY Times food critic calls the interior “outdated “in his review. The restaurant’s maze-like layout is sectioned off containing multiple rooms with fireplaces. A wooden semi-circular bar in the front area designed with exposed red brick and split by a support beam in the middle is perfect for some drinks while waiting for members of your party to arrive. The mood is serene with curtain covered windows, perfectly subdued lighting and soft almost non existence music. The grassy green colored walls are adorned with paintings of produce or farming scenes which hang alongside numerous mirrors. The dining tables are covered in white cloth accompanied by chocolate upholstered seats or booth seats which complement the elegant yet casual atmosphere.
Telepan is strong supporter of local farmers and therefore provides seasonal organic ingredients on the menu, no exceptions. Their farm to table concept is apparent in the freshness of the ingredients in each dish. At dinner time the restaurant’s New American cuisine is offered in a four course tasting, guests can choose from among the dishes on the menu at $69 ($125 with wine parings.) I’ve dined here a couple of times, on my first visit I selected the tasting menu and the sommelier paired the wines flawlessly. Lunch on the other hand consists of two courses at $22 or three courses at $28. Though the restaurant serves a la carte for lunch and dinner the tasting menu is the way to go to actually get a good feel for the taste of the cuisine.
The dishes that I’ve had for the starters were the Calamari Pasta with arugula pesto and baby tomatoes; and the House-Smoked Brook Trout corn blini and green onion sour cream. The Calamari Pasta was very delicious, it was impeccably cooked while the Brook Trout was my favorite dish – the sour cream made the dish very savory. As for the entrées I’ve tried the Codfish with roasted corn golden nugget potatoes, cippolini onions and balsamic; and the Roasted Chicken with wild mushrooms, crispy gnocchi and wild spinach. Both dishes were impressive, the chicken was soft and juicy and had a sour taste that was interesting and tasty. I also tried the Lobster Bolognese spaghetti, light herbs and shallot-garlic-tomato broth; and the Mezzaluna veal meatballs, mushroom and parmigiano broth. The lobster dish was wonderful with the broth as a perfect complement, and as for the veal, although I’m not a beef eater the taste of that dish was enough to win me over. Finally for desert, the Crispy Creme anise hyssop, strawberries and sauce had a fruity strawberry taste was that was magnificent. The Peach Granita Parfait almonds, verbena cream and prosecco chilled on ice had a mixture of peach and almond with the prosecco that combined deliciously. And I was in heaven with Telepan’s S’More marshmallow – chocolate brownie and graham cracker ice cream – chocolate, marshmallow and ice cream is like a holy trinity of sweetness do, I need to say more?
The Upper West Side has a gem in Telepan. The well trained staff provides first rate service. If one is looking to eat great food in an elegant yet casual atmosphere this is the place for you.
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