Category: Michelin Star

Amador ***

Amador
at Weingut Hajszan Neumann
Grinzinger Str. 86,
1190 Vienna, Austria
+43 660 9070500
Official Site

It had been nearly eight years since my last visit to Vienna. Back then, Austria’s capital did not have a three-Michelin-starred restaurant—something I always found surprising for a city of this caliber, widely regarded as the epicenter of a country with a deep and proud culinary culture. That all changed with the arrival of German three-Michelin-starred chef Juan Amador, who, after years of success in Germany, chose Vienna as the home for his namesake restaurant, Amador.

Restaurant Amador opened in 2015 and was immediately awarded two Michelin stars. Just two years later, the third star followed, making it the first restaurant in Austria to receive such an honor. This marked the third incarnation of Amador. The original restaurant opened in Langen, Germany, where it earned three stars, before relocating to Mannheim and once again achieving the same accolades—prior to finally settling in Vienna.

German-born chef and owner Juan Amador is no stranger to Michelin recognition. He earned his first star as head chef at Restaurant Petersilie in Lüdenscheid, followed by two stars at Schlosshof in Aschaffenburg, before opening his own eponymous restaurant. Chef Amador is widely regarded as one of Germany’s most accomplished and influential chefs.

Amador is located on the outskirts of Vienna, reachable by tram or taxi, tucked into a quiet residential neighborhood. The restaurant is housed in a working winery, with the dining room set inside a former wine cellar. Vaulted brick ceilings create a dramatic yet restrained atmosphere. Uniform round tables are dressed in thick white tablecloths, while the interior leans modern and minimalist, dominated by white and red tones. Lighting is soft, and music is kept so low it’s nearly imperceptible—allowing full focus on what’s happening on the plate.

Amador is open exclusively for dinner and offers a single nine-course tasting menu priced at €395. Dinner began with “Tapas & Snacks,” a rapid-fire barrage of small bites. The King Crab, Jalapeño, Bisque delivered deep crustacean flavor, served alongside a potato roll generously filled with sweet crab meat. One of the restaurant’s signatures, Walk in a Forest, followed—an earthy composition of mushrooms, parsley, and smoked dried eel, layered with smoke and umami.

TAPAS & SNACKS:

The Balfego Tuna, Roscoff-Onion, Chicken Skin arrived as a tartlet filled with rich, fatty tuna. The Canale l Norway Lobster l Perigod Truffles was particularly memorable: the traditionally sweet pastry cleverly transformed into a savory vehicle, topped with generous black truffle shavings and subtly filled with lobster meat, retaining just a hint of sweetness.

An amuse-bouche of Vichyssoise, Sea Cucumber, and Buttermilk followed. Traditionally a cold potato and leek soup with roots traced to New York City, Amador’s version arrived as an ice cream set atop airy buttermilk foam, with chunks of sea cucumber hidden beneath. Dehydrated leek added texture, while a bright citrus note tied the dish together. It was a bold, attention-grabbing introduction—shock value executed with precision.

Bread & Butter was treated as a course of its own. Bread by Christian Klein & Julie Branter | Vienna/Munich, Butter made by Jean-Yves Bordier| Saint-Malo and Olive Oil “Cuvee Amador” made by Castillo de Canena | Jaen formed an exceptional trio. Two varieties of freshly baked sourdough were paired with butter that was silky, rich, and deeply flavorful—clearly a point of pride for the kitchen.

BREAD & BUTTER:

The Momentum portion of the tasting began with CARABINERO FROM HUELVA – Escalivada, Parsley, Smoke Olive Oil. The prawn was firm yet succulent, showcasing natural sweetness, paired with roasted vegetables and a sweet-and-sour marinade that complemented the shellfish beautifully. Alongside it was a standout tartlet made from crustacean essence, topped with Spanish red gamba and Iberico pork, finished with smoky aromatic foam.

MOMENTUM:

Next came PATAGONIAN TOOTHFISH – Leek | Viennese Sake | Oscietra N25. Delicate and buttery, the fish sat atop leek purée and a sake-based beurre blanc, adding depth and velvety richness. The caviar brought salinity, while fried kombu seaweed added crunch and contrast. This was followed by BRETON TURBOT – Morcilla | Razor Clam | Treviso. The turbot was tender and rested on bomba rice infused with turbot consommé. Razor clams added brininess, while Spanish morcilla brought savory depth. Treviso cabbage introduced bitterness that balanced the dish, and the fried turbot skin added a welcome crisp texture.

The main course was AKUNE GOLD BEEF – Vacherin Mont D’Or | Artichoke | Perigord Truffle. The award-winning beef was cooked perfectly—tender, richly flavored, and melting on the palate. Black truffle sauce provided earthiness, while the melted cheese added pungent complexity. A small side dish of pâté filled with veal, truffle, and hazelnut was an excellent accompaniment.

A pre-dessert of CLASE AZUL REPOSADO – Blood Orange , Mint , Whey was refreshing and vibrant. Bright citrus notes dominated, while minty foam added lift—an ideal palate cleanser and seamless transition into dessert.

The main dessert, BRICK IN THE WALL – Spiced Milk , Beetroot ,Raspberry, is a signature inspired by Pink Floyd. Designed to resemble a Lego brick, it was made from spiced milk custard and tonka bean, encased in beetroot and raspberry. Additional textures—macaron, sorbet, and beetroot elements—completed the plate. On its own, the custard was subtly spiced, but when combined with the other components, the dessert became beautifully balanced and surprisingly complex.

Petit fours, titled Pequeñas Locuras, included Turrón, Iyokan, Kayambe Lait, Maritozzi di Roma, Sour Cherry, Pistachio, Apfelstrudel 2.0 , no Raisins, and Lavazza Reserva de Cuba. The final “Happy End” was Amador’s refined take on Kaiserschmarrn—caramelized shredded pancake served with wild blueberry ragout, crème fraîche, and finished with cotton candy. It was a playful yet elegant conclusion to a long meal.

Dinner at Amador is lengthy and designed to be savored. The food is precise, thoughtful, and impeccably composed, with flavors and textures in perfect harmony. Only the finest ingredients—sourced both locally and internationally—are used. Chef Amador masterfully weaves his Spanish roots into dishes shaped by Austrian influences. It was, without question, a wonderful dinner.

PEQUEÑAS LOCURAS:

I asked the sommelier to focus on local Viennese wines, and he curated two whites for the early and middle courses, followed by a Wieninger Select Pinot Noir 2017. All pairings were spot-on, enhancing each dish. The Pinot Noir paired with the beef was particularly superb.

Service at Amador was ultra-formal, bordering on robotic. The staff appeared somewhat stiff but were exceptionally knowledgeable. They spoke when spoken to, remained unobtrusive throughout the meal, and somehow appeared instantly whenever a glass needed refilling or a plate clearing—allowing uninterrupted focus on the food.

Vienna is an expensive city, especially at the fine-dining level, and Amador is no exception. At €395 for food alone—well over $400—plus wine, the bill can easily exceed $500. It sits at the higher end of pricing among three-Michelin-starred restaurants I’ve visited.

As Austria’s first three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Amador carries immense pressure to perform consistently at the highest level. With a chef deeply experienced in Michelin stardom and kitchen intensity, Amador fully delivers. Vienna hardly needs validation as a great food city, but with Chef Amador planting his roots here and achieving this historic milestone, the city’s place among the world’s great dining destinations is firmly cemented.

Odette ***

Odette
At The National Gallery Singapore
 1 St Andrew’s Rd, #01-04
Singapore 178957
+65 6385 0498
Official Site

Singapore has long been a gastronomic haven. You can enjoy something delicious and freshly made at a hawker center for just a few dollars, or splurge at one of the city’s many high-end, internationally acclaimed restaurants. The country truly has it all. Michelin-starred spots are scattered throughout the city, along with several entries on both the World’s 50 Best and Asia’s 50 Best lists. Its dining scene easily holds its own against global culinary capitals like Paris, London, New York, and Tokyo. And at the center of it all, its most famous and arguably most decorated restaurant, is the three-Michelin-starred Odette.

Since opening in 2015, Odette has collected just about every major accolade out there. It claimed the No. 1 spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in both 2019 and 2020, appears annually on the World’s 50 Best list, and is a proud member of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. In the inaugural 2016 Singapore Michelin Guide, it earned two stars, and by 2019 it had ascended to the coveted third star.

The restaurant is a collaboration between Chef Julien Royer and The Lo & Behold Group, known for operating some of Singapore’s top dining concepts locally and abroad. Chef Royer sharpened his skills in several Michelin-starred kitchens in France, including the highly regarded Michel Bras, and later cooked at The Greenhouse in London. Before opening Odette, he helmed Jaan in Singapore, which entered the World’s 50 Best under his leadership. Today he remains chef-founder of the one-star Louise in Hong Kong and chef-patron of Claudine in Singapore.

Housed inside the National Gallery Singapore, Odette’s dining room is bright, airy, and soft around the edges. Natural light floods in, bouncing off pale tones and a mosaic floor of broken marble pieces. Round white-clothed tables sit comfortably spaced apart, paired with plush booths and chairs. Through a sliding glass door, you catch glimpses of the kitchen at work. The décor leans toward understated elegance, highlighted by a hanging art installation by Singaporean artist Dawn Ng.

Epicure Menu:

For lunch, I decided to go all in with the “Epicure” menu priced at $498 SGD. Things kicked off with Grignotages, three playful little bites: a cheese donut, a pork taco with wasabi, and an escabeche tartlet. Right after came a silky sabayon egg custard with black truffle and mushroom tea. The earthy aroma hit instantly, and pairing each sip with a bite of brioche slathered in mushroom butter made it even better. A great start.

The first course, MARUKYO UNI – Red Sicilian prawn, Mussel cloud Kristal caviar, felt luxurious. The mussel mousse was rich and creamy with that unmistakable mussel flavor, while the prawns brought sweetness and the caviar added a clean salinity. On the side was a small, delicious uni toast. Next came the SHIMA AJI “CRUDO” – horseradish, rice & seaweed cracker, dill. The fish was laid over a tangy horseradish crème fraîche, while dill showed up in three forms, oil, purée, and fresh sprigs. It was finished with a dusting of buttermilk and horseradish snow for a subtle kick, and paired with crispy rice and seaweed crackers that added a fun, crunchy contrast.

Then came one of Odette’s signatures: the ROSEMARY SMOKED ORGANIC EGG – smoked potato syphon, chorizo Iberco,meuniere. The dish arrived surrounded by a cloud of dry ice smoke, full theatrics. The smoked egg yolk and light potato foam created a comforting savory combination, while bits of chorizo added richness and a slight nuttiness. A terrific dish.

The SCOTISH BLUE LOBSTER – Kyoto miso, endive, sake beurre blanc followed, tender and luscious, dressed in a beurre blanc that was sweet, zesty, rich, and just slightly tangy. After that came the HOKKAIDO STEAMED KINKI – water cress, Morrisseau mussel, pink garlic veloute. The fish was soft, silky, and incredibly delicate. The mussels brought a deep ocean flavor, and the yin-yang sauce, half garlic velouté, half watercress, balanced sweet, smooth garlic with leafy bitterness.

Before the main course, the server presented the whole  KAMPOT PEPPER CRUSTED PIGEON – Corsican peach, rhubarb, amaretto in a wooden box. The pigeon was excellent: tender, full of flavor, and coated in a crust that had a warm, sweet spiciness. The jus was delicious, and the leg meat slipped right off the bone. My server even brought a bun so I could soak up the remaining sauce, a small touch, but a thoughtful one.

A shiso granité sorbet with verbena jelly, green apple, and sorrel refreshed the palate with its bright, fruity acidity. Dessert was the CAVAILLON CHERRY ‘CLAFOUTIS’ – almond, elderflower, vanuata vanilla Odette’s refined take on the classic French dessert. A crisp cylindrical shell held almond sponge with a gentle nuttiness, topped with naturally sweet Cavaillon cherries. It wasn’t overly sweet, perfect for me. The meal ended with Douceurs: frozen lollipops, Japanese fruits, pralines, and chocolates.

The “Epicure” menu was wonderful. Pacing was spot-on, never rushed. The cooking leaned French at its core but blended Japanese and Asian ingredients seamlessly. The dishes were creative, technically precise, and full of bright, clear flavors. I opted for the wine pairing at $295 SGD, which brought selections from France, the U.S., Hungary, and South Africa. The pairings were thoughtful and genuinely elevated the food.

Service at Odette was outstanding. The staff were young, sharp, warm, and carried this effortless mix of casual and professional. They explained each course clearly without sounding rehearsed, and we even shared a few laughs throughout the meal. Afterward, I had the chance to visit the kitchen, where Chef Royer was present. He chatted for a few minutes, took photos, and expressed genuine gratitude. His humility stood out.

Wine Pairing:

At $498 SGD ($376 USD) for the menu and $295 SGD ($223 USD) for the wine pairing, this is definitely a splurge, right in line with top dining rooms across the U.S. and Europe. Singapore is an expensive city, and a meal at this level naturally comes with a premium. It’s the kind of place you come to celebrate something special or simply to experience one of the world’s top restaurants.

With three Michelin-starred options in Singapore alone, diners are spoiled for choice. But with all its accolades, Odette continues to be the restaurant many people point to when they think of Singapore’s dining scene. My visit lived up to the hype. Warm service, a relaxed but elegant setting, a celebrated chef who’s genuinely friendly, and, most importantly, fantastic food. Odette absolutely earns its reputation as one of the world’s great dining destinations.

Rooster & Owl *

Rooster & Owl
2436 14th St NW
 Washington, DC 20009
(202) 915-9004
Official Site

Rooster & Owl is a Michelin-starred restaurant in Washington, D.C., owned by the husband-and-wife duo Yuan and Carey Tang. Chef Yuan serves as the Executive Chef, while Carey manages the front of the house. Chef Yuan honed his craft in several renowned Michelin-starred establishments in New York, including Jean-Georges, The Modern, and Dovetail. He later returned to D.C. to work at various local restaurants before launching Rooster & Owl as a pop-up in 2016. In 2019, the restaurant found a permanent home, earning a glowing three-star review from The Washington Post and a Michelin star the same year—an accolade it proudly retains to this day.

Located along 14th Street in Washington, D.C.’s Columbia Heights neighborhood, Rooster & Owl exudes industrial-chic charm. At the entrance, guests are greeted by a sleek bar that also serves as counter seating. The dining room features uncovered blonde wooden tabletops paired with brown leather chairs, creating a warm yet modern ambiance. Heavy-duty metal shelving divides the space, adding both function and character. Diners can also catch glimpses of the open kitchen, adding an interactive element to the dining experience.

Open exclusively for dinner, the restaurant offers a prix fixe menu priced at $95, consisting of four courses—three savory dishes and a dessert—with the option to add extra courses for $15 each. The meal begins with a warm Hong Kong-style pineapple bun, which is light, airy, and infused with a delightful pineapple flavor.

The first course, FLUKE TARTARE – wasabi | huckleberry | melon, is visually striking, bursting with color and freshness. The fluke is delicately marinated in citrus, enhancing its natural brightness while a subtle floral note adds depth. Next, the CHARRED CABBAGE – whipped tofu | Thai chili honey | nuoc cham | hazelnut presents a medley of fresh vegetables with a perfect balance of sweetness and spice. The whipped tofu provides a silky base that complements the charred scallions beautifully, resulting in a light yet flavorful dish.

The NORWEGIAN COD – Littleneck clams | potato leek | fennel follows, with the cod expertly seasoned and enveloped in a thick potato-leek sauce that lends richness to the dish. A touch of yuzu marmalade brings a welcome zest, while crispy carrot strings add texture and a hint of earthy sweetness.

The SHORT RIB TORTELLINI – roasted tomato | bone marrow | XO butter is a standout. The tortellini, filled with tender short rib and foie gras, is decadent and deeply satisfying. The bone marrow sauce imparts a luxurious savoriness, while dehydrated garlic chili adds a crunchy texture and a mild kick of heat.

Highly recommended by the staff, the CHICKEN PRESSE – braised endive, confit potato, chicken jus, does not disappoint. The chicken is perfectly cooked—exceptionally tender and moist with a skin that is irresistibly crispy. The accompanying chicken jus is deeply flavorful, tying the dish together beautifully.

For dessert, the HUMMINGBIRD CAKE – chili pineapple | cream cheese | coconut is a unique take on the classic Southern cake, originally from Jamaica. Another staff favorite, this dessert impresses with its luscious cream cheese filling, which is both rich and delicately sweet. The chili pineapple adds a bright contrast, while coconut is creatively incorporated in various forms, including a crisp and a creamy coconut ice cream. To conclude the meal, a sweet almond financier is served, providing a simple yet satisfying final bite.

Dinner at Rooster & Owl is an enjoyable and well-executed experience. The menu showcases strong Asian influences, with ingredients thoughtfully woven together to create layers of flavors that harmonize beautifully. The four-course structure is more than satisfying, yet the option to add additional dishes allows guests to personalize their tasting journey.

The service is equally impressive—warm, engaging, and effortlessly professional. The staff strike a perfect balance between being attentive and maintaining a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, making each guest feel at home.

Rooster & Owl is a restaurant I thoroughly enjoyed. As a strong one-Michelin-star establishment, it delivers exceptional flavors at an accessible price point in an inviting setting. It’s a dining experience well worth seeking out.

Casa Mono *

Casa Mono
52 Irving Pl,
New York, NY 10003
(212) 253-2773
Official Site

For more than twenty years, the Spanish restaurant Casa Mono has been a fixture of Gramercy Park, just a stone’s throw from the bustling Union Square Market. The restaurant is part of the B&B Hospitality Group, owned by celebrity restaurateur Joe Bastianich. From day one, Chef and patron Andy Nusser has been at the helm. Chef Nusser, who also served as the opening chef at Babbo—the group’s flagship restaurant in the West Village—launched Casa Mono in 1994. Under his leadership, the restaurant has consistently held a Michelin star since 2010 and earned a prestigious three-star review from The New York Times.

Casa Mono’s space is small and lively, featuring an open kitchen, closely arranged tables, and floor-to-ceiling windows that open to the street on nice days. A bar offers additional seating, while wine-lined walls and mosaic tile floors create a warm, Spanish-inspired setting. It can get noisy when crowded, but the energetic vibe only adds to its charm.

Casa Mono offers a single menu for both lunch and dinner, with a selection that is extensive yet not overwhelming. The Pulpo – fennel, grapefruit, and olive tapenade was a standout. The baby octopus was both crispy and tender, with the grapefruit adding a bright, bitter zest, while the olive tapenade contributed a briny depth. The Chopitos – smoked eggplant and squid ink featuring expertly fried cuttlefish, offered a delightful contrast of textures, with a crispy exterior and a rich, smoky undertone, balanced by the deep maritime essence of the squid ink sauce.

The Creamy Eggs – sea urchin, walnuts, and ancient anchovy oil, were executed flawlessly. The eggs had a silky consistency, enriched by the sweet brininess of the sea urchin. Another highlight was the Arroz Negro – fluke a la plancha and piparra emulsion. The fluke was delicate yet firm, resting atop squid ink rice and a vibrant lime basil sauce that married acidity, herbal freshness, and a hint of vegetal bitterness, complementing the dish beautifully.

The Bacalao Croquetas – orange aioli and orange zest offered a classic Spanish tapa with a refined twist. The crisp exterior gave way to a perfectly seasoned, salty interior, with the citrusy aioli providing a bright counterpoint. The Scallops – serrano pepper curry and minted cashews were wonderful. Their natural sweetness was layered with a subtly spiced curry sauce, while the cashews added texture and depth.

For something heartier the Duck Breast – maitake mushrooms and miel de Jerez, was impeccably cooked. The skin was crisp, the meat succulent, and the sauce carried a delicate sweetness, balanced by earthy undertones. The Braised Oxtail-piquillo peppers was meltingly tender, falling off the bone with ease. Served piping hot, its robust flavors begged for extra bread to soak up every last drop of the sauce. If there was one drawback, it was the portion size, which leaned on the smaller side.

Casa Mono’s tapas offerings were consistently delightful. Each dish was thoughtfully composed, expertly cooked, and brimming with bold, inventive flavors. The menu struck a balance between classic Spanish staples and elevated interpretations, all best enjoyed with selections from the restaurant’s award-winning wine list, featuring an extensive range of Spanish vintages and locally sourced Spanish beers.

Service at Casa Mono was exemplary. The staff was warm, attentive, and effortlessly hospitable, their laid-back approach complementing the restaurant’s relaxed and vibrant atmosphere.

If there is any caveat to dining at Casa Mono, it is the price. The portions could be slightly more generous, and with servers recommending three to four dishes per person, the bill can quickly add up. However, for those willing to indulge, the experience is well worth the cost.

Longevity is rare in the ever-changing landscape of New York City’s dining scene, where even the most celebrated restaurants can shutter within months. Casa Mono has defied the odds, thriving for over two decades while maintaining a standard of excellence that cements its status as one of the city’s premier Spanish dining destinations. Its legacy endures, and its success continues to this day.

Jungsik **

Jungsik
11 Seolleung-ro 158-gil, Gangnam-gu,
Seoul, 06014, South Korea
+82 2-517-4654
Official Site

Traveling food lovers can’t come to Seoul, South Korea without stopping by Jungsik, arguably the country’s most famous restaurant. Chef and owner Jungsik Yim is often called the godfather of “New Korean” cuisine, a modern take on traditional flavors that’s been sweeping the global dining scene, especially in New York City where many Michelin-starred spots now serve this style. After a visit to Mosu, booking a table at Jungsik felt like the natural next step on my dining adventure.

Chef Yim trained at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and gained experience at top restaurants like Aquavit and Bouley in New York before heading to Spain to work at Zuberoa and the three-Michelin-starred Akelarre. He opened Jungsik in Seoul in 2009, and its success led to a sister location in Tribeca, New York, which holds two Michelin stars. In Seoul, Jungsik earned its first Michelin star in the 2016 inaugural guide and picked up a second the following year, maintaining both ever since. It’s also consistently ranked on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Jungsik is located in the Gangnam district, tucked into the second floor of a multi-story building. Downstairs is Bar Jungsik, a more casual space for drinks and small bites. Upstairs, the dining room opens up with floor-to-ceiling windows, mirrored ceilings, thick carpets, velvet-padded benches, and sleek black tables — a modern and elegant setting without feeling overly stuffy.

There are several menu options at lunch, but dinner is focused on a single multi-course “Signature” menu priced at 280,000 KRW (under $200 USD). Dinner kicked off with the “BANCHAN” usually a variety of Korean side dishes, but here served as an elegant set of canapés. I was guided to eat them left to right: fresh sashimi with a pleasant bitterness, a sweet and zesty scallop tart, a beef tartare toast with black truffle that was outstanding, and a fun kimchi-cheese lollipop in squid ink. There was also a delicate soy custard topped with salty roe, beautifully fresh vegetables, and a fermented rice drink packed with flavor. It was a memorable way to set the tone for the meal.

Signature Menu:

The first course was CAVIAR, which consisted of cured jackfish topped with caviar. The fish was thinly sliced, clean, and fresh, while the vinaigrette with Korean herbs gave it a nice floral and acidic touch. The tomato jelly underneath brought out the umami, and the caviar added a luxurious salty finish.

Next was ABALONE, sourced from the waters of southern Korea, steamed perfectly for a smooth texture. It came with a lightly spicy kimchi-flavored sauce and a buttery wine reduction with hints of citrus — rich but not heavy. The SWEET SHRIMP GIMBAP a Korean classic reimagined into a crispy seaweed cylinder filled with rice, fried shrimp, and kimchi. I was instructed to dip it into shrimp powder for an extra punch of flavor. Alongside, there was a piece of soy-marinated shrimp, a great showcase of the main ingredient.

Then came the ROYAL BIBIMBAP. While bibimbap is a simple Korean rice dish, this version was elevated with black truffle, beef tenderloin, foie gras, and cheese, bringing together earthy and savory elements in a luxurious way. The next dish was GEUM TAE, or red snapper. It reminded me of a similar one I had at Mosu the night before. The fish was firm but tender, with perfectly crisped skin. A light oil-based sauce added a subtle nuttiness, and it sat on kimchi infused with yuzu and soy sauce, giving the dish a bright, citrusy heat.

For the main course, there was a choice between LAMB and HANWOO beef (a +30,000 KRW supplement). I went with the HANWOO. It was a tenderloin cut, cooked medium rare—incredibly tender, juicy, and full of flavor. The brown butter and soy sauce added a nice mix of sweetness and a touch of salt. On the side, there were grilled mushrooms, roasted pine nuts, and herbs that paired really well with the beef.

The KOREAN MELON KOMBUCHA arrived chilled and acted as a refreshing palate cleanser. It had a bright tanginess and a subtle sweetness that was light and cooling. The main dessert was the DOLHAREUBANG l CARROT, a playful take on Jeju Island’s iconic volcanic statue. This mini figure was made of chocolate mousse and filled with peanut caramel. Rich and sweet, it was balanced nicely by a scoop of milk ice cream that toned things down with its gentle sweetness. Fun and satisfying.

WATERMELON STICK followed, a sorbet with that unmistakable watermelon flavor. Cool, crisp, and just sweet enough. To wrap up the meal, coffee was served with a house-made CHOCOPIE, a nostalgic Korean treat of chocolate and marshmallow. The sugary richness paired well with the bold black coffee.

After a long series of courses, this dinner definitely stood out. The flavors were rooted in Korean tradition, but the execution was thoughtful and modern. The kitchen leans heavily on high-quality local ingredients, blending them seamlessly with Western techniques. Some dishes reinterpreted classic Korean staples, while others incorporated luxurious Western ingredients to elevate the experience.

I opted for the wine pairing at 168,000 KRW (a 9-glass option is also available for 230,000 KRW). The selection include five thoughtfully chosen wines from around the world, each expertly paired with its corresponding dish.

Service at Jungsik was formal but never stiff. The staff was professional, well-spoken, and always happy to engage. Every server who came by the table knew the menu well and explained each course clearly. There was no language barrier, and they were attentive without ever hovering—glasses were refilled before you even thought to ask.

Beverage Pairing:

Jungsik feels surprisingly approachable. If you’re curious about experiencing a two-Michelin-star meal without spending a fortune, lunch is a great way in. But even dinner is doable at just under $350 USD for the full menu with drink pairing, it’s a fair price for a restaurant of this caliber.

Back in New York, it’s hard to miss the wave of “Modern Korean” spots popping up everywhere. Korean food has gone far beyond its K-Town roots in Manhattan or Flushing in Queens. Jungsik played a huge role in that shift. Chef Jungsik Yim and his flagship in Seoul helped define what “New Korean” could be. So if you’re in Seoul, there’s no better place to explore where it all began.

Mosu ***

Mosu
45 Itaewon-ro 55ga-gil, Yongsan-gu,
Seoul, 04348, South Korea
+82 10-9014-1696
Official Site

Seoul, the vibrant capital of South Korea, stands as the nation’s gastronomic epicenter. A paradise for food enthusiasts, it offers an impressive range of culinary experiences, from bustling night markets to cozy, family-owned eateries. This dynamic megacity is home to numerous Michelin-starred establishments and globally celebrated restaurants. Yet, one name truly stands out: Mosu, currently the only three-Michelin-starred restaurant in both Seoul and South Korea.

Mosu is helmed by Chef Sung Ahn, a South Korea-born culinary virtuoso who moved to the United States in his teens. There, he honed his craft in some of California’s finest kitchens, including Urasawa (two Michelin stars in Los Angeles), The French Laundry, and Benu (both three stars). Chef Ahn opened Mosu in San Francisco in 2016, earning a Michelin star within months. However, a year later, he closed the restaurant, returning to Seoul to be closer to his family. Mosu reopened in Seoul in 2017, immediately receiving one Michelin star in 2018, followed by a second a year later. By 2022, it had reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence with its third Michelin star.

Located in the trendy Itaewon district, Mosu is discreetly nestled among boutique shops, blending seamlessly into its stylish surroundings. The bi-level space exudes minimalist elegance. Oversized, uncovered tables are generously spaced for privacy, emphasizing a sense of calm sophistication. The main dining room on the first floor feels expansive, featuring an open kitchen with soaring ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, creating a serene yet exclusive atmosphere.

Open for lunch and dinner, each service offers its own tasting menu. I visited for dinner, which came at a cost of 370,000 KRW, payable in full upon reservation. The meal commenced with a welcome drink of jasmine and summer herbs—a refreshing prelude to awaken the palate. What followed was a parade of small bites that arrived in rapid succession, setting a high standard for the evening.

Small Bites:

The first bite featured sweet shrimp with crispy seaweed and egg salad, a delightful combination that was both delicate and flavorful. Next was a rice cracker adorned with vibrant, fresh herbs and vegetables, delivering a burst of freshness. A skewer of carrots, tomato, and eggplant drizzled with olive oil sauce followed, packing a profound and compact flavor. The truffle tart, crafted with a squid ink base and filled with Korean Hanwoo beef tartare, was a standout, offering an earthy truffle essence paired with the richness of the beef. The final small bite, a taco of abalone with seaweed compote, delivered a delightful crunch and a chewy texture, with a squeeze of lime elevating its flavors. These expertly crafted bites started the dinner on an exhilarating note.

The official first course, toasted sesame with amaranth, presented a sphere of sesame and tofu resembling a large dumpling, filled with creamy, briny uni. A touch of wasabi added a hint of spice, balanced by the sweet notes of dashi. Next was the bread course, a surprising sourdough ice cream served atop oil and balsamic vinegar. The ice cream captured the essence of sourdough bread, with toasted quinoa providing a textural nod to its crust.

The following courses were equally remarkable. The tilefish in capsicum, sourced from Jeju Island, was flawlessly tender with a hint of fattiness. Its sauce—a medley of paprika powder, shishito chili, and anchovies—offered a vibrant interplay of pungency, salinity, and spiciness. Then came the sweet corn custard, a dish as smooth and creamy as it was flavorful. Hidden beneath its silky surface were succulent scallops, while a topping of decadent caviar added a perfect touch of briny luxury.

The fresh water eel “kobayaki”, introduced earlier in the evening as a tartin, finally made its appearance. Traditionally a sweet pastry, this version was given a savory twist. The tartin’s caramelized, crispy crust paired beautifully with the tender, subtly sweet eel filling. Next came the ember toasted acorn noodles, a pasta dish featuring acorn noodles in butter sauce, crowned with generous shavings of black truffle. The butter sauce and truffles created a rich, aromatic harmony that was deeply satisfying.

For the main course, the “Hanwoo” & clams, was a testament to Korean culinary excellence. This native breed of cattle, renowned for its superior quality, was prepared to perfection—tender, juicy, and intensely flavorful. A clam sauce infused with cherry seed oil added layers of depth and complexity, elevating the dish to new heights and concluding the savory courses with a flourish.

Dessert, fittingly named “Small Sweets,” unfolded in several delightful acts. A palate-cleansing chamoe sorbet, made from Korean melon, refreshed the senses with its crisp, fruity notes. A Kampuchea peach with fermented yellow rice cake offered a unique texture and subtle flavor. The choux pastry, filled with kombu cream jam, combined delicate sweetness with umami undertones. The final dessert was a bold caramel ice cream, intriguingly paired with onion and leek. The savory elements tempered the caramel’s sweetness, creating an unexpectedly balanced profile. Accompanying my tea was yakgwa, a deep-fried Korean pastry infused with ginger and honey—a fittingly indulgent end to an extraordinary meal.

“Small Sweets”:

Mosu’s tasting menu exemplified precision and artistry, seamlessly blending Chef Ahn’s American influences with local Korean ingredients. Each dish was thoughtfully composed, with some flavors offering comforting familiarity and others an exciting sense of novelty. The meal was expertly paired with the restaurant’s standard beverage selection, featuring French wines, a South African white, Japanese sake, and Korean spirits—all enhancing the food beautifully.

Drink Pairing:

Service was impeccable. The staff at Mosu were warm, professional, and well-versed in each course, confidently explaining the dishes in fluent English. The relaxed atmosphere, contrasting with the formality of the service, created a comfortable yet refined dining experience. Notably, the restaurant does not enforce a dress code, which is uncommon for fine dining in the West, reflecting Seoul’s unique dining culture.

An evening at Mosu is surprisingly affordable compared to similar three-starred venues in the U.S., Europe, or other Asian cities. With dinner and beverage pairing totaling less than $450, it offers remarkable value.

With the closure of Gaon and the demotion of La Yeon, Mosu remains the nation’s sole three-starred bastion. Though temporarily closed for relocation, the restaurant is expected to reopen in late 2024. When it does, there is little doubt that Mosu will reclaim its status as Seoul’s premier fine-dining destination, offering an experience truly worth the journey.

Shibumi *


Shibumi
815 S. Hill St.
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(323) 484-8915
Official Site

One Michelin-starred Shibumi, located in Downtown Los Angeles (DTLA), is a Japanese restaurant specializing in kappo-style cuisine. Its chef and owner, David Schlosser, has a strong Michelin pedigree, having honed his skills at three-Michelin-starred restaurants such as Georges Blanc in Vonnas, L’Arpège in Paris, and Kikunoi Honten and Arashiyama in Kyoto, Japan. In the U.S., he has worked at Masa Takayama’s Ginza Sushi-ko and Urasawa in Beverly Hills. Chef Schlosser opened Shibumi in 2016, and received a Michelin star in 2019, which it has maintained ever since.

Shibumi’s facade is highly distinguishable and hard to miss along S Hill Street. The restaurant features a spacious, softly lit dining room that can accommodate up to forty guests. Its modestly designed space includes sparsely spaced dark wooden two-top tables and a long L-shaped counter with a 400-year-old wood top.

The restaurant offers a multi-course option priced at $125, available only in the evening. Dinner begins with “Hassun,” a collection of small dishes served with sake. These include “Chiayu,” young sweetfish tsukandani, a small fish cut in half that is sweet and salty. The cucumber stuffed with salted plum, smoked bonito, and sesame is crunchy and highlighted with wonderful salinity. The fresh yuba with shrimp, dashi joyu, and shiso flowers is rich with a pleasant subtlety, while the Mozuku shot with green grapes combines a profound seaweed taste with the sweet, alcoholic fruitiness of the grapes.

Sashimi of the moment featured thinly sliced flounder, offering a delicate taste that lingered on the palate. It was dusted with dried mullet roe, adding a subtle crunch, and accompanied by an intriguing nori jelly. A slimy-textured potato yam and a salty flounder belly cut sashimi rounded out this dish with contrasting textures and flavors.

Next, the Chilled somen noodles, pearl tomato, japanese parsley, summer vegetables arrived. The dish was refreshing, with a pleasant acidity provided by the tomatoes, balancing the lightness of the noodles. The Tempura of black cod, warm dashi, grated radish followed after. Bathed in a warm, umami-rich dashi broth, the cod was perfectly fried, with a wonderfully crisp crust that soaked up the dashi, creating a delightful harmony of flavors. The grated radish added a hint of bitter spiciness that enhanced the dish.

Sakura masu – smoked, grilled Japanese cherry trout served as the main course and was cooked elegantly. The skin had a charred texture, while the fish itself carried a pleasant smokiness. A side of pickled daikon provided a sweet and sour contrast that complemented the trout beautifully.

The rice dish featured Iron pot rice from iwate – ginga no shizuku variety, house miso in smoked dashi broth, tororo shaved konbu, shitake, salted shirashu white bait boiled in seawater. Mixing the rice with the other components resulted in a comforting, flavorful dish. The deep-fried shirashu added a crispy texture and a burst of salty flavor, while the pickled vegetables contributed an extra layer of tangy sourness. The miso soup had a refined earthiness, rounding out the meal.

Before dessert, I was offered supplemental small dishes. I chose the 3-month-cured uni, which was pungent with a cheese-like consistency, and the Okinawan red koji tofu, which delivered a strong, biting salinity that was both intriguing and intense.

For the sweet course, the Koji custard with yatsuhashi cinnamon crackers was served cold, offering a refreshing touch to the palate with just the right amount of sweetness. The final dish, Poached loquat in elderflower gelée, was a gelatin-like dessert with a delightful sweet fruitiness.

Dinner was enjoyable, with food that was uncomplicated yet evocative of traditional Japanese flavors that were clean and subtle. Each plate was composed with detailed precision, showcasing quality ingredients at their peak. Shibumi offers a well-rounded selection of sake and shochu, along with an extensive array of Japanese whisky to complement the meal.

The service is informal, with a laid-back approach that creates a relaxed atmosphere. The staff is personable, including the chefs behind the counter, making the dining experience fun and convivial. Sitting at the counter is preferred for engaging with the staff and enhancing the overall experience.

Considering the price tag, dinner at Shibumi offers great value and is more approachable for many, especially in an expensive city like Los Angeles. The restaurant provides guests with uncomplicated traditional food in a fun and un-stuffy setting, solidifying its place as a noteworthy restaurant in Los Angeles.

Addison ***

Addison
at The Fairmont Grand Del Mar
5300 Grand Del Mar Ct,
San Diego, CA 92130
(858) 314-1900
Official Site

As the state of California’s second largest city and the ninth most populous in the US with 1.3 million residents, San Diego is known for the world famous San Diego Zoo, Comic Con and its pleasant weather all year round. However it hardly comes up as a food destination even though the city boasts plenty of excellent places to eat. It wasn’t until the Michelin guide star wide expansion in 2019 put the city of San Diego on notice. 2022 was the year San Diego was officially recognized in the global culinary map when the Michelin guide awarded Addison three Michelin stars making it the very first in Southern California.

Addison has been awarded all the accolades that a restaurant can receive. It holds the Forbes Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond, and is an esteemed member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant group. The restaurant has consistently ranked among the best, not only in the state but also in the country. In the Michelin Guide’s inaugural statewide edition in 2019, Addison was awarded one Michelin star (some argued it should have received at least two). The second star came a year later, and finally, in 2022, the ultimate third star was just the icing on the cake.

The restaurant is situated within the luxurious Fairmont Grand Del Mar resort, housed in its own distinct edifice. Guests are welcomed by a waiting room with  a cozy fireplace, which leads into a spacious bar area. The Addison dining room boasts large windows that offer views of the surrounding area. The dining room itself is expansive, with high ceilings and generously spaced oversize tables. Although the decor is a bit outdated, it still exudes charm and luxury.

Only open for dinner, Addison offers a single tasting menu priced at $355 at the time of my visit (excluding tax and gratuity). A small glass of warm guava hibiscus and apple drink filled with fruity aromatics prepared my palate for what was to come. This was immediately followed by an array of small bites served all at once. The Sake Cured Kampachi Nigiri has a pleasing cured and spicy flavor, while the Kumamoto Oysters with pickled rose apples and champagne has a light and clean oceanic taste. The Mexican-inspired Chicken Liver Churro with bitter chocolate was a delectable contrast, and the Sage Hill Ranch Garden Greens was a true vegetal delight. Lastly the Iberian Ham with crispy potato and aged sherry was a nice savory bite. These starters were an amazing introduction to dinner.

Tasting Menu:

 The first course featured Kampachi Sashimi with Preserved Pears and Pinchuberry-Ponzu Kiwi. The delicate kampachi, boasting exceptional freshness, with bright flavors that harmonized beautifully with citrus notes. Next, Shellfish Chawanmushi with Broccoli, Bok Choy, and Purple Daikon provided a superb interplay of hot and cold temperatures. The custard’s sharp shellfish essence was complemented by the textured bitterness of chopped bok choy.

The Reglis Ova Reserve Caviar with Koshikari Rice, Smoked Sabayon, and Sesame presented a rice bowl of premium Japanese rice. The eggs imparted excellent creaminess to the rice, while the sabayon added a hint of smoke, and the caviar contributed a perfect touch of salinity. These combined elements created a  balanced dish. Next came Salt and Vinegar Chips with Toasted Dill and Burnt Onion Dip. The extra crunchy chips provided an ideal neutral base for the dip, which was richly flavorful, with a terrific burnt note enhancing its richness.

Continuing with Splendid Alfonsino, Flavors of Winter, Battered Kelp, and Clam Butter, a tender piece of fish with expertly fried scales rendered an extra crispy texture. The foamy clam butter sauce was delicious, with chive oil adding a zesty element to the fish. Bread is typically served at the beginning of a meal, but here it was presented as its own separate course. Sourdough Bread with Goat’s Milk and Browned Honey Butter arrived at my table with two types of butter. The freshly baked bread had a crackling lacquered crust. While goat’s milk butter isn’t usually my preference, the brown honey butter was incredibly good, and I couldn’t get enough of it.

Afterwards, the Tom Kha Guong Sweet and Sour Fowl, King Crab, and Swarnadwipa was served. This reinterpretation of the staple Thai soup by the restaurant offered robust flavors with a refined twist. The soup contains chunks of delectable king crab meat, accompanied by a side of crispy fried chicken nuggets that were equally delightful.

Squab Yakitori, Peanut Miso, Pak Choy, and Tokyo Turnips was the main course for the evening. Different parts of the squab were prepared skillfully. The leg was grilled to perfection and dusted with shiitake mushroom and coffee, adding a blend of earthy and bitter flavors. The other cuts of meat were succulent and flavorful. The peanut miso had a sweet and savory character that successfully paired with the squab. This was an exceptional main course.

“Creamsicles” was the palate clean ser, made from coconut cream, blood orange, tangerine, and orange sherbet chutney. This was quite refreshing, citrusy, and had a hint of spiciness.

The Sweet Treats consisted of two parts presented simultaneously. One was a large dessert plate of Praline Crunch, Mezcal, Passion Fruit, and Toasted Fluffi, which had a sweet and salty aspect to it. The passion fruit and mezcal sauce provided a pleasant acidity and fruitiness. The other part was a parade of small treats: Yuzu Custard Ceremonial Matcha (foamy, grainy, and limely), Berry-Beet Tartelette with Verjus and Vanilla (not as sweet as it looked but rather had a earthy and fruity notes), Bitter Chocolate Wafer with Pistachio and Sour Cherry Jam (was a chocolatey goodness), and Wildflower Honey Combs (with delicate sweetness). These were a fitting end to a great meal.

This was an outstanding dinner that showcased California’s agricultural bounty and cultural diversity. Diners are taken on a global journey with influences from many different cuisines, all touched with a distinct “Californian” flair. There were plenty of familiar flavors and dishes that were refined and elevated. Chef Bradley’s brilliance and his repertoire were on display this evening. The sommelier, at my request, paired the first half of the meal with a 2020 Sauvignon Baron Widdman from Northern Italy, while the latter part was paired with a 2019 Frederic Magnien ‘Clos Sorbé’ Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru red wine from Burgundy.

Sweet Treats:

Addison’s service exemplifies Southern California’s laid-back attitude while also maintaining a sense of professionalism. The staff were authentic, personable, and warm, making you feel right at home. They were extremely knowledgeable and well-versed on every detail on the plate. Chef Bradley visited every table in the dining room and chatted briefly with guests during this visit. He was also there to greet guests on a kitchen tour at the end of the meal.

A visit to Addison is an expensive undertaking and, for many, a special occasion or once-in-a-lifetime experience. However, when given a chance to dine here, this is a great restaurant that delivers perfectly executed dishes matched with unparalleled service from an energetic staff.

San Diego has long been an underrated food city. However, as more establishments earn Michelin stars and international accolades, it is steadily transforming into a gastronomic hotbed, with Addison leading the way. Few major cities around the world can boast a restaurant that is both synonymous with the city and a must-visit destination. San Diego has that in Addison. Traveling gastronomes have been making the special journey to dine there, and rightly so—Addison is truly one of the finest dining establishments in the world.

L’OSIER ***

L’OSIER
7 Chome-5-5 Ginza, Chuo City,
Tokyo 104-0061, Japan
+81 120-156-051
Official Site


Japanese company Shiseido is among the largest cosmetic companies in the world, with its headquarters located in Tokyo. It also owns L’OSIER, one of the oldest and most esteemed French restaurants in the city. Established in 1973, the restaurant received immediate acclaim, being awarded three Michelin stars when the guide published its Tokyo edition in 2007. At that time, the kitchen was under the supervision of Chef Bruno Menard, who maintained this distinction for three consecutive years. However, following Chef Menard’s departure in 2009 to pursue other ventures and the restaurant’s subsequent closure for renovation, it reopened in 2013 with Olivier Chaignon as the new executive chef, resulting in the loss of a star. The restaurant maintained two stars until 2018, when Chef Chaignon returned it to its former glory in 2019 by reclaiming the third Michelin star.

A native of France, Chef Chaignon boasts an impressive resume, with previous stints at La Taillavent and the three Michelin-starred Pierre-Gagnaire in Paris. He came to Tokyo in 2005 to serve as the head chef of Pierre-Gagnaire au Tokyo, where he remained until 2013, during which time the restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars.

Situated in the upscale shopping district of Minato-ku, L’OSIER welcomes guests with a grand entrance. A doorman opens the large bronze door upon arrival, and a gracious hostess escorts guests down a spiral staircase to the dining room. Inside, the windowless dining room exudes tranquility with its serene lighting. Tables are adorned with neatly pressed thick white cloths, accompanied by leather-padded chairs and benches lining the walls. Additional seating is positioned in the center of the space directly below the elegant chandeliers. To dampen noise levels, the floors are carpeted with thick rugs featuring rose flower imprints.

L’OSIER offers different set menus for both lunch and dinner, as well as a “special menu”. During my visit, I selected the “Menu Degustation,” which commenced with the AMUSE-BOUCHE. This delightful assortment of bite-sized snacks was served on a clear glass plate alongside a cup of foamy potato soup. The soup boasted a refined potato flavor with hints of mushroom and citrus from the yuzu, making it perhaps the most sophisticated potato soup I’ve ever tasted.

Menu Degustation:

The first course featured OSSETRA CAVIAR AND HOKKAIDO KEGANI CRAB – Jerusalem artichoke ravioli, finger lime/oyster leaf, with the luxurious saltiness of the caviar complementing the wonderful taste of the crab. Additionally, the plate included three small artichoke mousses topped with jelly, providing a pleasant sourness. Following this was the DUCK FOIE GRAS – roasted, cream of trompette mushroom condiment, chestnut/ beetroot/ kumquat, green cardamon flovoured mushroom broth foam, a decadent dish combining sweet, citrus, and savory elements. The green cardamom mushroom foam added a unique flavor dimension to the dish. Next came the HATA FISH – coated with black truffle crust, cauliflower, shellfishes lettuce sobayon sauce, delicate and tender, with a crispy crust mimicking fish skin made from thin black truffle bread. The sobayon sauce, made from three types of Japanese shellfish, added deep sea flavors to the dish.

For the main course, HOKKAIDO VENISON – roasted with black pepper from Madagascar, acidulated red cabbage with black currant, green pasta stuffed with braised shoulder, carrot mouse, “Poivrade” sauce was served, roasted impeccably to retain its moisture and tenderness. Drenched in “Poiverde” sauce, the venison had a layer of peppery spice, perfectly complemented by a green pasta filled with braised venison shoulder and a carrot mousse with a sweet and earthy flavor.

The CHEESE SELECTION were mostly French cheeses, with a surprising addition of selections from Japan. Of particular note was the blue cheese from the Nagano prefecture, renowned for its distinct sharpness and creamy consistency. Following the cheese course, a refreshing Strawberry Sorbet was served as the palate cleanser. Its icy coldness and fruity sweetness were invigorating, albeit leaning towards the sweeter side. Alongside the sorbet were delectable bite-sized treats, with the strawberry meringue and banana chocolate standing out as particularly delightful.

For the main dessert, the “BABA” – sponge cake with tropical fruits, coconut sherbet was served. This was L’OSIER’s take on the classic French dessert known as rhum baba or rum cake, which had been refined and given a modernized twist. The cake featured plenty of fruity elements and a deep, rich rum flavor that harmonized with other components on the plate without overshadowing them. Following the dessert, the SWEET DELICACY TROLLEY arrived at my table, brimming with chocolatey delights and other sugary treats, providing a terrific conclusion to the meal.

This kitchen delivered a remarkable meal. Each plate was artfully arranged, vibrant, and bursting with colors. The food was light yet packed with a fantastic composition of flavors and textures. The culinary expertise demonstrated a high degree of technical skill, using ingredients of the finest quality, primarily sourced locally. Alongside this tasting experience, I indulged in the wine pairing, mainly consisted of European wines. The sommelier’s selections were spot-on, enhancing each bite with an additional layer of flavor.

The staff at L’Osier exuded an air of formality, dressed neatly in dark suits. While their service was extremely formal and sometimes bordering on robotic, they remained unobtrusive, speaking only when spoken to. The dining room manager took charge of explaining each course as it arrived at the table, maintaining a quiet and private atmosphere for diners to enjoy their meals in comfort.

Although dinner at L’OSIER cost less than $500 (at the time of my visit), it was still considered pricey. However, considering the inclusion of wine pairing and service charge, along with the favorable exchange rate of the USD, it represented excellent value for money. As a three-star establishment offering sublime haute cuisine, L’OSIER provided a remarkable dining experience at a relatively reasonable price point compared to similar establishments in the US and Europe.

Wine Pairing:

French culinary titans like Alain Ducasse, Pierre Gagnaire, and the late Joel Robuchon, along with numerous other Michelin-starred French chefs, have established outposts in Tokyo and throughout Japan. The French restaurants in this country are considered to rival those in France due to their uncompromising sourcing of quality ingredients and impeccable cooking culture. L’OSIER exemplifies this standard, standing as one of the finest French restaurants where anyone can dine, easily rivaling the great gastronomic venues in France.

Taian ***

Taian
1-21-2 Shimanouchi, Chuo-ku,
Osaka, 542-0082, Japan
+81 6-6120-0790

In Japan, there are plenty of small restaurants that are independently owned and operated by families. Some have been in the same family for multiple generations. Typically, the husband serves as the chef while the wife manages the front of the house. Osaka’s three Michelin-starred Taian operates in exactly this manner. Chef Hitoshi Takahata, along with his wife who oversees the dining room, owns Taian. Under their watch, the restaurant has held three Michelin stars since 2011. Prior to opening Taian, Chef Takahata spent fifteen years at Ajikitcho, a well-established kaiseki restaurant in Osaka.

Taian boasts a small, intimate space with a long wooden bar that seats about sixteen guests. The interior is simple, creating a relaxed atmosphere akin to dining at someone’s home. On the evening of my visit, I observed a mix of casually dressed Asian tourists in t-shirts and jeans along with locals.

The restaurant exclusively offers a kaiseki meal every evening, which begins with a series of small dishes served simultaneously. The radish soup offers a pleasantly surprising bitterness, while the yam potato noodles provide a nice sweet earthiness. The oysters boast a deep sea essence that pairs wonderfully with the bitterness of the radish, and the seaweed sauce introduces an oceanic vegetal element. What a terrific introduction to the meal.

Next, I enjoyed a white miso soup with tofu, radish mustard, and Japanese tara milt (a delicacy in Japan). The soup has a unique richness derived from the milt, while the tofu adds a bitter spiciness. This was followed by a sashimi course of thinly sliced blowfish and yellowtail, accompanied by white radish, red radish, pepper, and ponzu sauce. While the blowfish offered a subtle, almost flavorless taste, dipping it in ponzu sauce enhanced its flavor with a wonderful citric tang. In contrast, the delicate yellowtail was simply terrific.

I was then served Sanuki wagyu beef with salt and pepper, ponzu, honey miso, and chicken miso sauce. This rare breed of cows from Kagawa prefecture boasts a unique flavor derived from being mainly fed olive branches. The beef was grilled to perfection, juicy, and had the perfect pinkness to it. Dipping the beef in different sauces and salt and pepper provided a variety of flavors, although I preferred it as is due to its already rich flavor.

Following this, I enjoyed deep-fried yuba with crab, served piping hot. The fried yuba was extra crunchy and served as the perfect vessel for the tasty crab filling. Although visually simple, the dish was incredibly satisfying. This was followed by another soup dish of spinach and clams with katsu broth. The broth was extremely flavorful and complemented the strong oceanic taste of the clams. Topped off with blanched spinach and shaved ginger, the duo added another layer of bitterness and a gingery spice.

The final savory course was a rice dish made with fugu fish accompanied by a small cup of clear fish broth. The rice had a terrific fish taste, while the broth boasted a sharp seafood flavor.

For dessert, I was served a glass of Japanese fruits with brandy jelly and orange liqueur. This offered an interesting fruity flavor with a hint of zest, and the sweet alcoholic jelly helped bind all the elements together.

Taian’s kaiseki was wonderful, with flavors slightly bolder than other kaiseki meals I’ve had in Japan. The dishes were simple yet perfectly executed, featuring top-tier ingredients. Despite occasional repetition of certain ingredients in the kaiseki, Chef Takahata showcased remarkable skill in seamlessly integrating them with other components on the plate.The beverage pairing, which included a blend of sake, European, and Australian wines, elevated the dining experience, perfectly complementing each bite.

During my visit, Chef Takahata was behind the counter, personally preparing each plate and engaging with guests alongside his chefs. His wife warmly greeted guests upon their arrival, setting a welcoming tone for the evening. Together, they provided warm Japanese hospitality in a relaxed and homey atmosphere.

Beverage Pairing:

In contrast to the opulence often associated with three-Michelin-starred restaurants, Taian stands out with its modest decor and an approachable price point. However, there is no compromise on quality—the food and service are of three-star standards.

Despite extreme online reviews—either love or hate—my visit to Taian was a personal delight. Impressed by every aspect of my dinner, I found Taian to be a highly capable three-Michelin-starred restaurant, likely to surprise and captivate many visitors, as it did for me.