Category: Fine Dining

Jungsik **

Jungsik
11 Seolleung-ro 158-gil, Gangnam-gu,
Seoul, 06014, South Korea
+82 2-517-4654
Official Site

Traveling food lovers can’t come to Seoul, South Korea without stopping by Jungsik, arguably the country’s most famous restaurant. Chef and owner Jungsik Yim is often called the godfather of “New Korean” cuisine, a modern take on traditional flavors that’s been sweeping the global dining scene, especially in New York City where many Michelin-starred spots now serve this style. After a visit to Mosu, booking a table at Jungsik felt like the natural next step on my dining adventure.

Chef Yim trained at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and gained experience at top restaurants like Aquavit and Bouley in New York before heading to Spain to work at Zuberoa and the three-Michelin-starred Akelarre. He opened Jungsik in Seoul in 2009, and its success led to a sister location in Tribeca, New York, which holds two Michelin stars. In Seoul, Jungsik earned its first Michelin star in the 2016 inaugural guide and picked up a second the following year, maintaining both ever since. It’s also consistently ranked on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Jungsik is located in the Gangnam district, tucked into the second floor of a multi-story building. Downstairs is Bar Jungsik, a more casual space for drinks and small bites. Upstairs, the dining room opens up with floor-to-ceiling windows, mirrored ceilings, thick carpets, velvet-padded benches, and sleek black tables — a modern and elegant setting without feeling overly stuffy.

There are several menu options at lunch, but dinner is focused on a single multi-course “Signature” menu priced at 280,000 KRW (under $200 USD). Dinner kicked off with the “BANCHAN” usually a variety of Korean side dishes, but here served as an elegant set of canapés. I was guided to eat them left to right: fresh sashimi with a pleasant bitterness, a sweet and zesty scallop tart, a beef tartare toast with black truffle that was outstanding, and a fun kimchi-cheese lollipop in squid ink. There was also a delicate soy custard topped with salty roe, beautifully fresh vegetables, and a fermented rice drink packed with flavor. It was a memorable way to set the tone for the meal.

Signature Menu:

The first course was CAVIAR, which consisted of cured jackfish topped with caviar. The fish was thinly sliced, clean, and fresh, while the vinaigrette with Korean herbs gave it a nice floral and acidic touch. The tomato jelly underneath brought out the umami, and the caviar added a luxurious salty finish.

Next was ABALONE, sourced from the waters of southern Korea, steamed perfectly for a smooth texture. It came with a lightly spicy kimchi-flavored sauce and a buttery wine reduction with hints of citrus — rich but not heavy. The SWEET SHRIMP GIMBAP a Korean classic reimagined into a crispy seaweed cylinder filled with rice, fried shrimp, and kimchi. I was instructed to dip it into shrimp powder for an extra punch of flavor. Alongside, there was a piece of soy-marinated shrimp, a great showcase of the main ingredient.

Then came the ROYAL BIBIMBAP. While bibimbap is a simple Korean rice dish, this version was elevated with black truffle, beef tenderloin, foie gras, and cheese, bringing together earthy and savory elements in a luxurious way. The next dish was GEUM TAE, or red snapper. It reminded me of a similar one I had at Mosu the night before. The fish was firm but tender, with perfectly crisped skin. A light oil-based sauce added a subtle nuttiness, and it sat on kimchi infused with yuzu and soy sauce, giving the dish a bright, citrusy heat.

For the main course, there was a choice between LAMB and HANWOO beef (a +30,000 KRW supplement). I went with the HANWOO. It was a tenderloin cut, cooked medium rare—incredibly tender, juicy, and full of flavor. The brown butter and soy sauce added a nice mix of sweetness and a touch of salt. On the side, there were grilled mushrooms, roasted pine nuts, and herbs that paired really well with the beef.

The KOREAN MELON KOMBUCHA arrived chilled and acted as a refreshing palate cleanser. It had a bright tanginess and a subtle sweetness that was light and cooling. The main dessert was the DOLHAREUBANG l CARROT, a playful take on Jeju Island’s iconic volcanic statue. This mini figure was made of chocolate mousse and filled with peanut caramel. Rich and sweet, it was balanced nicely by a scoop of milk ice cream that toned things down with its gentle sweetness. Fun and satisfying.

WATERMELON STICK followed, a sorbet with that unmistakable watermelon flavor. Cool, crisp, and just sweet enough. To wrap up the meal, coffee was served with a house-made CHOCOPIE, a nostalgic Korean treat of chocolate and marshmallow. The sugary richness paired well with the bold black coffee.

After a long series of courses, this dinner definitely stood out. The flavors were rooted in Korean tradition, but the execution was thoughtful and modern. The kitchen leans heavily on high-quality local ingredients, blending them seamlessly with Western techniques. Some dishes reinterpreted classic Korean staples, while others incorporated luxurious Western ingredients to elevate the experience.

I opted for the wine pairing at 168,000 KRW (a 9-glass option is also available for 230,000 KRW). The selection include five thoughtfully chosen wines from around the world, each expertly paired with its corresponding dish.

Service at Jungsik was formal but never stiff. The staff was professional, well-spoken, and always happy to engage. Every server who came by the table knew the menu well and explained each course clearly. There was no language barrier, and they were attentive without ever hovering—glasses were refilled before you even thought to ask.

Beverage Pairing:

Jungsik feels surprisingly approachable. If you’re curious about experiencing a two-Michelin-star meal without spending a fortune, lunch is a great way in. But even dinner is doable at just under $350 USD for the full menu with drink pairing, it’s a fair price for a restaurant of this caliber.

Back in New York, it’s hard to miss the wave of “Modern Korean” spots popping up everywhere. Korean food has gone far beyond its K-Town roots in Manhattan or Flushing in Queens. Jungsik played a huge role in that shift. Chef Jungsik Yim and his flagship in Seoul helped define what “New Korean” could be. So if you’re in Seoul, there’s no better place to explore where it all began.

Mosu ***

Mosu
45 Itaewon-ro 55ga-gil, Yongsan-gu,
Seoul, 04348, South Korea
+82 10-9014-1696
Official Site

Seoul, the vibrant capital of South Korea, stands as the nation’s gastronomic epicenter. A paradise for food enthusiasts, it offers an impressive range of culinary experiences, from bustling night markets to cozy, family-owned eateries. This dynamic megacity is home to numerous Michelin-starred establishments and globally celebrated restaurants. Yet, one name truly stands out: Mosu, currently the only three-Michelin-starred restaurant in both Seoul and South Korea.

Mosu is helmed by Chef Sung Ahn, a South Korea-born culinary virtuoso who moved to the United States in his teens. There, he honed his craft in some of California’s finest kitchens, including Urasawa (two Michelin stars in Los Angeles), The French Laundry, and Benu (both three stars). Chef Ahn opened Mosu in San Francisco in 2016, earning a Michelin star within months. However, a year later, he closed the restaurant, returning to Seoul to be closer to his family. Mosu reopened in Seoul in 2017, immediately receiving one Michelin star in 2018, followed by a second a year later. By 2022, it had reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence with its third Michelin star.

Located in the trendy Itaewon district, Mosu is discreetly nestled among boutique shops, blending seamlessly into its stylish surroundings. The bi-level space exudes minimalist elegance. Oversized, uncovered tables are generously spaced for privacy, emphasizing a sense of calm sophistication. The main dining room on the first floor feels expansive, featuring an open kitchen with soaring ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, creating a serene yet exclusive atmosphere.

Open for lunch and dinner, each service offers its own tasting menu. I visited for dinner, which came at a cost of 370,000 KRW, payable in full upon reservation. The meal commenced with a welcome drink of jasmine and summer herbs—a refreshing prelude to awaken the palate. What followed was a parade of small bites that arrived in rapid succession, setting a high standard for the evening.

Small Bites:

The first bite featured sweet shrimp with crispy seaweed and egg salad, a delightful combination that was both delicate and flavorful. Next was a rice cracker adorned with vibrant, fresh herbs and vegetables, delivering a burst of freshness. A skewer of carrots, tomato, and eggplant drizzled with olive oil sauce followed, packing a profound and compact flavor. The truffle tart, crafted with a squid ink base and filled with Korean Hanwoo beef tartare, was a standout, offering an earthy truffle essence paired with the richness of the beef. The final small bite, a taco of abalone with seaweed compote, delivered a delightful crunch and a chewy texture, with a squeeze of lime elevating its flavors. These expertly crafted bites started the dinner on an exhilarating note.

The official first course, toasted sesame with amaranth, presented a sphere of sesame and tofu resembling a large dumpling, filled with creamy, briny uni. A touch of wasabi added a hint of spice, balanced by the sweet notes of dashi. Next was the bread course, a surprising sourdough ice cream served atop oil and balsamic vinegar. The ice cream captured the essence of sourdough bread, with toasted quinoa providing a textural nod to its crust.

The following courses were equally remarkable. The tilefish in capsicum, sourced from Jeju Island, was flawlessly tender with a hint of fattiness. Its sauce—a medley of paprika powder, shishito chili, and anchovies—offered a vibrant interplay of pungency, salinity, and spiciness. Then came the sweet corn custard, a dish as smooth and creamy as it was flavorful. Hidden beneath its silky surface were succulent scallops, while a topping of decadent caviar added a perfect touch of briny luxury.

The fresh water eel “kobayaki”, introduced earlier in the evening as a tartin, finally made its appearance. Traditionally a sweet pastry, this version was given a savory twist. The tartin’s caramelized, crispy crust paired beautifully with the tender, subtly sweet eel filling. Next came the ember toasted acorn noodles, a pasta dish featuring acorn noodles in butter sauce, crowned with generous shavings of black truffle. The butter sauce and truffles created a rich, aromatic harmony that was deeply satisfying.

For the main course, the “Hanwoo” & clams, was a testament to Korean culinary excellence. This native breed of cattle, renowned for its superior quality, was prepared to perfection—tender, juicy, and intensely flavorful. A clam sauce infused with cherry seed oil added layers of depth and complexity, elevating the dish to new heights and concluding the savory courses with a flourish.

Dessert, fittingly named “Small Sweets,” unfolded in several delightful acts. A palate-cleansing chamoe sorbet, made from Korean melon, refreshed the senses with its crisp, fruity notes. A Kampuchea peach with fermented yellow rice cake offered a unique texture and subtle flavor. The choux pastry, filled with kombu cream jam, combined delicate sweetness with umami undertones. The final dessert was a bold caramel ice cream, intriguingly paired with onion and leek. The savory elements tempered the caramel’s sweetness, creating an unexpectedly balanced profile. Accompanying my tea was yakgwa, a deep-fried Korean pastry infused with ginger and honey—a fittingly indulgent end to an extraordinary meal.

“Small Sweets”:

Mosu’s tasting menu exemplified precision and artistry, seamlessly blending Chef Ahn’s American influences with local Korean ingredients. Each dish was thoughtfully composed, with some flavors offering comforting familiarity and others an exciting sense of novelty. The meal was expertly paired with the restaurant’s standard beverage selection, featuring French wines, a South African white, Japanese sake, and Korean spirits—all enhancing the food beautifully.

Drink Pairing:

Service was impeccable. The staff at Mosu were warm, professional, and well-versed in each course, confidently explaining the dishes in fluent English. The relaxed atmosphere, contrasting with the formality of the service, created a comfortable yet refined dining experience. Notably, the restaurant does not enforce a dress code, which is uncommon for fine dining in the West, reflecting Seoul’s unique dining culture.

An evening at Mosu is surprisingly affordable compared to similar three-starred venues in the U.S., Europe, or other Asian cities. With dinner and beverage pairing totaling less than $450, it offers remarkable value.

With the closure of Gaon and the demotion of La Yeon, Mosu remains the nation’s sole three-starred bastion. Though temporarily closed for relocation, the restaurant is expected to reopen in late 2024. When it does, there is little doubt that Mosu will reclaim its status as Seoul’s premier fine-dining destination, offering an experience truly worth the journey.

Addison ***

Addison
at The Fairmont Grand Del Mar
5300 Grand Del Mar Ct,
San Diego, CA 92130
(858) 314-1900
Official Site

As the state of California’s second largest city and the ninth most populous in the US with 1.3 million residents, San Diego is known for the world famous San Diego Zoo, Comic Con and its pleasant weather all year round. However it hardly comes up as a food destination even though the city boasts plenty of excellent places to eat. It wasn’t until the Michelin guide star wide expansion in 2019 put the city of San Diego on notice. 2022 was the year San Diego was officially recognized in the global culinary map when the Michelin guide awarded Addison three Michelin stars making it the very first in Southern California.

Addison has been awarded all the accolades that a restaurant can receive. It holds the Forbes Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond, and is an esteemed member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant group. The restaurant has consistently ranked among the best, not only in the state but also in the country. In the Michelin Guide’s inaugural statewide edition in 2019, Addison was awarded one Michelin star (some argued it should have received at least two). The second star came a year later, and finally, in 2022, the ultimate third star was just the icing on the cake.

The restaurant is situated within the luxurious Fairmont Grand Del Mar resort, housed in its own distinct edifice. Guests are welcomed by a waiting room with  a cozy fireplace, which leads into a spacious bar area. The Addison dining room boasts large windows that offer views of the surrounding area. The dining room itself is expansive, with high ceilings and generously spaced oversize tables. Although the decor is a bit outdated, it still exudes charm and luxury.

Only open for dinner, Addison offers a single tasting menu priced at $355 at the time of my visit (excluding tax and gratuity). A small glass of warm guava hibiscus and apple drink filled with fruity aromatics prepared my palate for what was to come. This was immediately followed by an array of small bites served all at once. The Sake Cured Kampachi Nigiri has a pleasing cured and spicy flavor, while the Kumamoto Oysters with pickled rose apples and champagne has a light and clean oceanic taste. The Mexican-inspired Chicken Liver Churro with bitter chocolate was a delectable contrast, and the Sage Hill Ranch Garden Greens was a true vegetal delight. Lastly the Iberian Ham with crispy potato and aged sherry was a nice savory bite. These starters were an amazing introduction to dinner.

Tasting Menu:

 The first course featured Kampachi Sashimi with Preserved Pears and Pinchuberry-Ponzu Kiwi. The delicate kampachi, boasting exceptional freshness, with bright flavors that harmonized beautifully with citrus notes. Next, Shellfish Chawanmushi with Broccoli, Bok Choy, and Purple Daikon provided a superb interplay of hot and cold temperatures. The custard’s sharp shellfish essence was complemented by the textured bitterness of chopped bok choy.

The Reglis Ova Reserve Caviar with Koshikari Rice, Smoked Sabayon, and Sesame presented a rice bowl of premium Japanese rice. The eggs imparted excellent creaminess to the rice, while the sabayon added a hint of smoke, and the caviar contributed a perfect touch of salinity. These combined elements created a  balanced dish. Next came Salt and Vinegar Chips with Toasted Dill and Burnt Onion Dip. The extra crunchy chips provided an ideal neutral base for the dip, which was richly flavorful, with a terrific burnt note enhancing its richness.

Continuing with Splendid Alfonsino, Flavors of Winter, Battered Kelp, and Clam Butter, a tender piece of fish with expertly fried scales rendered an extra crispy texture. The foamy clam butter sauce was delicious, with chive oil adding a zesty element to the fish. Bread is typically served at the beginning of a meal, but here it was presented as its own separate course. Sourdough Bread with Goat’s Milk and Browned Honey Butter arrived at my table with two types of butter. The freshly baked bread had a crackling lacquered crust. While goat’s milk butter isn’t usually my preference, the brown honey butter was incredibly good, and I couldn’t get enough of it.

Afterwards, the Tom Kha Guong Sweet and Sour Fowl, King Crab, and Swarnadwipa was served. This reinterpretation of the staple Thai soup by the restaurant offered robust flavors with a refined twist. The soup contains chunks of delectable king crab meat, accompanied by a side of crispy fried chicken nuggets that were equally delightful.

Squab Yakitori, Peanut Miso, Pak Choy, and Tokyo Turnips was the main course for the evening. Different parts of the squab were prepared skillfully. The leg was grilled to perfection and dusted with shiitake mushroom and coffee, adding a blend of earthy and bitter flavors. The other cuts of meat were succulent and flavorful. The peanut miso had a sweet and savory character that successfully paired with the squab. This was an exceptional main course.

“Creamsicles” was the palate clean ser, made from coconut cream, blood orange, tangerine, and orange sherbet chutney. This was quite refreshing, citrusy, and had a hint of spiciness.

The Sweet Treats consisted of two parts presented simultaneously. One was a large dessert plate of Praline Crunch, Mezcal, Passion Fruit, and Toasted Fluffi, which had a sweet and salty aspect to it. The passion fruit and mezcal sauce provided a pleasant acidity and fruitiness. The other part was a parade of small treats: Yuzu Custard Ceremonial Matcha (foamy, grainy, and limely), Berry-Beet Tartelette with Verjus and Vanilla (not as sweet as it looked but rather had a earthy and fruity notes), Bitter Chocolate Wafer with Pistachio and Sour Cherry Jam (was a chocolatey goodness), and Wildflower Honey Combs (with delicate sweetness). These were a fitting end to a great meal.

This was an outstanding dinner that showcased California’s agricultural bounty and cultural diversity. Diners are taken on a global journey with influences from many different cuisines, all touched with a distinct “Californian” flair. There were plenty of familiar flavors and dishes that were refined and elevated. Chef Bradley’s brilliance and his repertoire were on display this evening. The sommelier, at my request, paired the first half of the meal with a 2020 Sauvignon Baron Widdman from Northern Italy, while the latter part was paired with a 2019 Frederic Magnien ‘Clos Sorbé’ Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru red wine from Burgundy.

Sweet Treats:

Addison’s service exemplifies Southern California’s laid-back attitude while also maintaining a sense of professionalism. The staff were authentic, personable, and warm, making you feel right at home. They were extremely knowledgeable and well-versed on every detail on the plate. Chef Bradley visited every table in the dining room and chatted briefly with guests during this visit. He was also there to greet guests on a kitchen tour at the end of the meal.

A visit to Addison is an expensive undertaking and, for many, a special occasion or once-in-a-lifetime experience. However, when given a chance to dine here, this is a great restaurant that delivers perfectly executed dishes matched with unparalleled service from an energetic staff.

San Diego has long been an underrated food city. However, as more establishments earn Michelin stars and international accolades, it is steadily transforming into a gastronomic hotbed, with Addison leading the way. Few major cities around the world can boast a restaurant that is both synonymous with the city and a must-visit destination. San Diego has that in Addison. Traveling gastronomes have been making the special journey to dine there, and rightly so—Addison is truly one of the finest dining establishments in the world.

L’OSIER ***

L’OSIER
7 Chome-5-5 Ginza, Chuo City,
Tokyo 104-0061, Japan
+81 120-156-051
Official Site


Japanese company Shiseido is among the largest cosmetic companies in the world, with its headquarters located in Tokyo. It also owns L’OSIER, one of the oldest and most esteemed French restaurants in the city. Established in 1973, the restaurant received immediate acclaim, being awarded three Michelin stars when the guide published its Tokyo edition in 2007. At that time, the kitchen was under the supervision of Chef Bruno Menard, who maintained this distinction for three consecutive years. However, following Chef Menard’s departure in 2009 to pursue other ventures and the restaurant’s subsequent closure for renovation, it reopened in 2013 with Olivier Chaignon as the new executive chef, resulting in the loss of a star. The restaurant maintained two stars until 2018, when Chef Chaignon returned it to its former glory in 2019 by reclaiming the third Michelin star.

A native of France, Chef Chaignon boasts an impressive resume, with previous stints at La Taillavent and the three Michelin-starred Pierre-Gagnaire in Paris. He came to Tokyo in 2005 to serve as the head chef of Pierre-Gagnaire au Tokyo, where he remained until 2013, during which time the restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars.

Situated in the upscale shopping district of Minato-ku, L’OSIER welcomes guests with a grand entrance. A doorman opens the large bronze door upon arrival, and a gracious hostess escorts guests down a spiral staircase to the dining room. Inside, the windowless dining room exudes tranquility with its serene lighting. Tables are adorned with neatly pressed thick white cloths, accompanied by leather-padded chairs and benches lining the walls. Additional seating is positioned in the center of the space directly below the elegant chandeliers. To dampen noise levels, the floors are carpeted with thick rugs featuring rose flower imprints.

L’OSIER offers different set menus for both lunch and dinner, as well as a “special menu”. During my visit, I selected the “Menu Degustation,” which commenced with the AMUSE-BOUCHE. This delightful assortment of bite-sized snacks was served on a clear glass plate alongside a cup of foamy potato soup. The soup boasted a refined potato flavor with hints of mushroom and citrus from the yuzu, making it perhaps the most sophisticated potato soup I’ve ever tasted.

Menu Degustation:

The first course featured OSSETRA CAVIAR AND HOKKAIDO KEGANI CRAB – Jerusalem artichoke ravioli, finger lime/oyster leaf, with the luxurious saltiness of the caviar complementing the wonderful taste of the crab. Additionally, the plate included three small artichoke mousses topped with jelly, providing a pleasant sourness. Following this was the DUCK FOIE GRAS – roasted, cream of trompette mushroom condiment, chestnut/ beetroot/ kumquat, green cardamon flovoured mushroom broth foam, a decadent dish combining sweet, citrus, and savory elements. The green cardamom mushroom foam added a unique flavor dimension to the dish. Next came the HATA FISH – coated with black truffle crust, cauliflower, shellfishes lettuce sobayon sauce, delicate and tender, with a crispy crust mimicking fish skin made from thin black truffle bread. The sobayon sauce, made from three types of Japanese shellfish, added deep sea flavors to the dish.

For the main course, HOKKAIDO VENISON – roasted with black pepper from Madagascar, acidulated red cabbage with black currant, green pasta stuffed with braised shoulder, carrot mouse, “Poivrade” sauce was served, roasted impeccably to retain its moisture and tenderness. Drenched in “Poiverde” sauce, the venison had a layer of peppery spice, perfectly complemented by a green pasta filled with braised venison shoulder and a carrot mousse with a sweet and earthy flavor.

The CHEESE SELECTION were mostly French cheeses, with a surprising addition of selections from Japan. Of particular note was the blue cheese from the Nagano prefecture, renowned for its distinct sharpness and creamy consistency. Following the cheese course, a refreshing Strawberry Sorbet was served as the palate cleanser. Its icy coldness and fruity sweetness were invigorating, albeit leaning towards the sweeter side. Alongside the sorbet were delectable bite-sized treats, with the strawberry meringue and banana chocolate standing out as particularly delightful.

For the main dessert, the “BABA” – sponge cake with tropical fruits, coconut sherbet was served. This was L’OSIER’s take on the classic French dessert known as rhum baba or rum cake, which had been refined and given a modernized twist. The cake featured plenty of fruity elements and a deep, rich rum flavor that harmonized with other components on the plate without overshadowing them. Following the dessert, the SWEET DELICACY TROLLEY arrived at my table, brimming with chocolatey delights and other sugary treats, providing a terrific conclusion to the meal.

This kitchen delivered a remarkable meal. Each plate was artfully arranged, vibrant, and bursting with colors. The food was light yet packed with a fantastic composition of flavors and textures. The culinary expertise demonstrated a high degree of technical skill, using ingredients of the finest quality, primarily sourced locally. Alongside this tasting experience, I indulged in the wine pairing, mainly consisted of European wines. The sommelier’s selections were spot-on, enhancing each bite with an additional layer of flavor.

The staff at L’Osier exuded an air of formality, dressed neatly in dark suits. While their service was extremely formal and sometimes bordering on robotic, they remained unobtrusive, speaking only when spoken to. The dining room manager took charge of explaining each course as it arrived at the table, maintaining a quiet and private atmosphere for diners to enjoy their meals in comfort.

Although dinner at L’OSIER cost less than $500 (at the time of my visit), it was still considered pricey. However, considering the inclusion of wine pairing and service charge, along with the favorable exchange rate of the USD, it represented excellent value for money. As a three-star establishment offering sublime haute cuisine, L’OSIER provided a remarkable dining experience at a relatively reasonable price point compared to similar establishments in the US and Europe.

Wine Pairing:

French culinary titans like Alain Ducasse, Pierre Gagnaire, and the late Joel Robuchon, along with numerous other Michelin-starred French chefs, have established outposts in Tokyo and throughout Japan. The French restaurants in this country are considered to rival those in France due to their uncompromising sourcing of quality ingredients and impeccable cooking culture. L’OSIER exemplifies this standard, standing as one of the finest French restaurants where anyone can dine, easily rivaling the great gastronomic venues in France.