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Tim Ho Wan (Sham Shui Po) *

Tim Ho Wan Sham Shui Po
9-11 Fuk Wing Stree
Hong Kong, China
+852 2132 0066

In the world of gastronomy receiving the Michelin stars usually equate to higher prices, Hong Kong’s Tim Ho Wan is an exception. This dim sum restaurant has the distinction as the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world. Opened in 2009 by Mak Kwai-pui, a former chef of the three Michelin starred Lung King Heen, it has since expanded throughout Hong Kong and throughout the Far East as well as in Sydney, Australia. Its original location in Mong Kok had closed down a few years ago due to rising rent prices and relocated to another part of Hong Kong. There are currently two branches with a star, the North Point and Sham Siu Po, and since the latter was the oldest it was the one that I chose to visit.

Armed with two other companions we arrived for a late lunch on Sunday afternoon. There was still a large crowd of locals and tourist waiting for their number to be called. We waited for about twenty minutes before we were seated. The place was noisy and every table occupied. There’s nothing special with the décor of the restaurant, just plain wood tables and chairs making, New York City Chinatown’s Golden Unicorn and Jin Fong high end in comparison.

Unlike the places in New York City, where the food carts are being pushed around, here you fill up a paper menu, check what you want to order then you give it your server. One by one small plates of goodness start to flow. Steamed chicken feet with black bean sauce, an all-time great at a dim sum place, gelatinous chicken feet doused in black bean sauce had tremendous flavor. Steamed rice with meat & dry cuttle fish had a creaminess to it. The rice was covered in savory meat and cuttle fish. It was hearty and definitely filling. Poached fresh seasonal vegetables where the Chinese cabbage still retained the leafy aspect. Steamed dumplings in chu chow style had a filling that was a mixture of shrimp and fresh vegetables which made for a chewy dumplings.

The steamed egg cake had a delicate and puffy texture as each bite left my palate wanting more. Steamed chicken with mushroom where the chicken meat was so tender that it fell right of the bone. Steamed with mushroom, peppers and garlic it infused beautiful flavor in the chicken. Nicely done pan-fried beef buns filled with satay paste had a wonderful fried crusty middle. Its beef stuffing marinated in satay paste was deliciously sweet yet savory. Steamed beef balls with bean curd skin, compact juicy beef balls oozed with oily goodness. A dish that makes a normal appearance at almost every dim sum restaurant in New York City, Vermicelli roll stuffed with shrimp. At Tim Ho Wan the vermicelli was a little thick but worked well in absorbing the soy sauces provided. There’s also the Cantonese classic, Pan-fried turnip cake, a crunchy outer layer while soft in the inside. This was a pleasant and modest dish.

We were satisfied at the end that we decided to forgo dessert. My companion and I were all in agreement and enjoyed our meal. Out total damaged was about 250 HKD including tax and 10 percent service charge (about $32) for ten shared dishes and just tea to drink. This was an excellent value for your money.

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At Tim Ho Wan don’t expect Michelin starred service, the staff is efficient and direct but not rude. There were times that a server had to yell out to the guest for their orders as the rooms got extremely noisy. Our meal was quick but we did not feel rushed at all since the food started coming out soon after we ordered. We gave ourselves enough time to help digest but at the same time we were not inconsiderate of those waiting for tables.

Tim Ho Wan is a humble restaurant that serves authentic dim sum. The food is simple, focusing more on taste than presentation, When the Michelin guide awarded this restaurant a star it caused a shockwave to the restaurant world. There was backlash from pundits and food enthusiast alike and the credibility of the guide was questioned. In a city with a myriad of dim sum restaurants was Tim Ho Wan the only one that the Michelin inspector thought worthy of the star? I’m pretty sure there is a lot more deserving but if based on the criteria of a one star “a very good restaurant in its category”, Tim Ho Wan is a very a good dim sum restaurant.

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Ilili

Ilili
236 5th Ave
New York,NY 10001
(212)683-2929
Official Site

Lebanese cuisine is rarely mentioned in the same sentence as high-end dining in New York City. It’s mostly associated with small falafel shops and food carts. Up to this day there are still only a handful of venues, such as Al Bustan and Almayass. So in 2007, when Lebanese born chef, Phillipe Massoud opened the restaurant Ilili steps away from Madison Square Park, in the Flatirion District, it was an ambitious undertaking that was eventually followed by success and consequently was embraced by the dining public.

Visible along Fifth Avenue passerby’s can’t help but notice the bustling dining room of Ilili, occupying a huge space that can seat at least 200 diners. Guests are greeted by a spacious lounge with wood panel walls, suede benches, and long bar in back with a thick stone top. The main dining room is designed with an abundance of wood and dominated by uncovered large round tables with cherry red armless chairs. The room’s high ceilings create an echo that can get loud on busy nights but that’s what gives Ilili its fun atmosphere. Tucked in the corner of the room is chamber that has more of an intimate settings and much quieter compared to the main dining room, the tables are covered in white cloth are setup for two people.

Leading the kitchen at Ilili is Chef Massoud. He left Beirut for New York at a young age to escape the civil war and after college; his love for Lebanese cuisine led him back to Lebanon cooking with some of the country’s best chefs. He returned to the US in the late 90’s to head the kitchen at Neyla in Washington D.C. before settling in New York.

Ilili offers a la carte lunch and dinner menu to go along with their $25 lunch pre fixe special and the lounge offers small bites and drinks. Small plates or Mezzes are separated in hot and cold. For the hot mezzes I had an excellent Octopus-lamb bacon, Piquillo peppers, garbanzo beans, eggplant. Firm but tender octopus meat was flavored beautifully with the intensity of the lamb bacon. Meanwhile the grapes gave it a touch of sweetness along with the vegetables creating a balanced dish. The Riz-Lebanese rice, toasted vermicelli, mixed nuts was more of an accompaniment with the main dish and exuded wonderful aromas. Cold mezzes to dip Ilili’s freshly baked warm pita bread were the Mouhamara- walnuts, sundried peppers, pomegranate molasses and the Hommus-chickpea puree, tahini, lemon and olive oil. The Mouhamara’s has a complexity that includes some tanginess and sweetness while the hommus was slightly refined than a regular one. Presented neatly before being mix by the server the Chankleesh –feta cheese, onions, tomato and zaatar . The assortment of spices and herbs, tomato and onions had the character of a salsa and with the addition of the feta cheese giving it another dimension.

Some of the entrée that I’ve had were the Mixed Grill-chicken shish taok, beef kebab, kafta lamb chops, garlic whip trio, seasonal grilled vegetables, a carnivore delight for two. It’s a plate of nothing but perfectly grilled meats. With both beef kebab and lamb chops that are extremely moist and flavorful and the chicken and lamb sausage was terrific. Chicken Taouk Duo-chicken breast & thigh, sumac, tender juicy chicken skewered and grilled with aromatics seasonings.

Served as a whole from head to tail, Citrus Trout-citrus cells, orange tahini, arugula, smoked almonds, was grilled perfectly and placed on top of a light cream citrus sauce. The orange and grapefruit cells added another level of acidity that went well with the trout. The lone non-meat entrée was the Semolina Gnocchi-yogurt, pine nut, orange zest. It had an excellent hint of orange that paired delightfully with the sourness and thickness of the yogurt used to blanket the gnocchi. A garnish of pine nuts was added for extra texture.

Warm Date Cake with coconut sorbet, carob, chocolate was the one sweet plate that highlighted the dessert. The duo of warm and sweet with refreshing cool sorbet played on the palate in both temperature and flavors without being muddled. Pieces of carob and melted chocolate were brushed on the plate where the cake and sorbet sat on top and added some sweetness.

Chef Massoud reinterpreted classic Lebanese cuisine using non-traditional ingredients and incorporating his creative approach with a Mediterranean twist while keeping the flavor profile. Cooking contains a lot of grilling and searing, yogurt, fruits and vegetables appeared constantly on the plate. Paired wines and drinks are tailor fitted with Ilili’s food. It’s vast list was curated with wines from different parts of the globe while also focusing on local Lebanese wines and “Arak” traditional spirits in the Middle East. Its cocktail program is another strong point. The drinks are creative, one of my all-time favorites “From Beirut with Passion” a refreshing fruitiness that also can be dangerous if you don’t take note on how many you’ve had.

Visiting to dine or to have drinks Ilili’s staff shares an enthusiastic approach to each guest. The front of the house greets everyone that comes through the door with a huge smile while the dining room personnel provides service that is efficient and personable without being too patronizing. With a packed dining room that can get a bit loud, confusion and not being on the same page can occur but the staff is able to handle this without any issues.

This restaurant had polished a humble cuisine with sophistication and with a price tag to go along with it that New Yorkers are willing to pay. For the past eight years they have created a following of locals and celebrities alike. Its kitchens cooking techniques, mixologists artistic libations draw inspiration from Lebanon and the restaurants urbane atmosphere make Ilili one of the finest in the city for haute Lebanese dining places.

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Restaurant Initiale

Restaurant Initiale
54 Rue Saint-Pierre
Quebec, QC G1K 3Z9
Canada
+1 418-694-1818
Official Site

In the French speaking Canadian province of Quebec, Montreal, their excellent restaurants from fine dining to casual bistro and talented chefs tend to get all the gastro praises. The province’s capital of Quebec City on the other hand, with its European charm, feels like a little brother that doesn’t get enough credit. The city has an outstanding gastronomic scene that is anchored by Restaurant Initiale. Guide books and food blogs recommend and also recognize this as the best restaurant in Quebec City. A member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux, one of only two restaurants here to be awarded the CAA/AAA five diamond and is considered amongst the top dining venues in all of Canada.

In charge of the kitchen is French born chef, Yvan Lebraun from Cancale, Brittany who moved to Quebec in 1986 while the dining room is handled by Rolande Leclerc. The co-owners worked together at Hilton Quebec prior to Restaurant Initiale. They first opened the restaurant in 1990 before relocating to its current location in 1998 below the old city and away from all the hordes of tourists. The building that the restaurant is housed in was once bank; it was then transformed with neutral tones designed with a contemporary elegant interior. Its dining room has large windows, brown carpet that covers the whole space, and tables with neatly pressed coverings are positioned with enough space from each other along with sizable cream leather seats. The dimmed lights with very soft music provide an intimate setting. A relaxing lounge upon entering is where pre and post drinks are held and is often used as additional seating on busy nights.

There are different set menu options for both lunch and dinner to go along with a la carte, but to get the full experience of Chef Lebrun the tasting menu was my choice. For aperitif, I was offered the “Initiale”, an in house concoction named after the restaurant made from bubbly wine with a slice of orange peel resembling a kir royal.

Degustation:

A light and refreshing amuse-bouche of chilled beet root, cantaloupe, and radish started the tasting. This was then followed by another amuse of mushrooms with quail eggs, salmon roe on top of potato almond cream which had a sensational earthiness. For the first course I was served scallops lamelles, oxalis and horse radish with marinated lobster, verjus and cameline, pousses de mme Allison. It had an enthralling floral essence and distinct notes that suited the sliced raw scallop. An added item on the plate was the chopped marinated lobster filling on half circled crispy rolls creating a superb first dish. Next was the dice of halibut and caviar de British Columbia with leeks and potato, dried yolk powder, and lemon confit. The delicate clean tasting piece of halibut was topped with caviar providing a touch of saltiness while the creamy sauce gave it some richness.

For the third course, I was served Royale d’ail nouveau and breast of pigeon-petits pois, concentrated juice buckwheat and galette. Flavorful tender pigeon breast meat with a vivid pink middle was intensified with the boldness of the buckwheat juice. While the heavy cream custard prevented the juice from overpowering the rest. An accompaniment on the side of the plate was a pastry rolled up with chopped pigeon meat stuffing, showing the versatility of the meat and the creativity of the chef.

Continuing on, a seared foie gras-cauliflower purée, blueberries, chanterelles and duck juice. The foie gras was seared perfectly giving the outer layer a beautiful seared texture while keeping the inside buttery. Complimenting this was creamy cauliflower puree and a strong duck juice sauce. The dish also had nice undertones of sour and sweet. Then came the veal loin -fried medaillon, roasted tomatoes and green olives condiments and almonds. An excellent course where the veal was impeccably prepared and succulent. As complex as this dish may seem with all of these elements on one plate the chef was able to make it work in harmony.

A cheese course of Tomme sheep de Kamouraska-vegetal tartare-fruits & vegetables, oil of anis-hysope and pourpier that is made locally from the region had a defined nuttiness. The toast with spread and tartare of fruits and vegetables supplemented the cheese and can be eaten together or individually.

Dessert courses began with the eggnog buttermilk and lemon thyme-Langue de chat and fleur de sel. The light eggnog with a pastry stick coated in chocolate and a sugary cookie at the bottom of the bowl was a beautiful combination of sweet and savory while also slowly acclimating the palate for a sweeter course. Gourmandise-entremet lemon and pistachios biscuit, raspberries and rose sorbet. It was more refreshing than sweet. A chilled sensation from the rose sorbet while also maintaining a citric fruitiness from the rest. Then finally the Mignardise, sweet pastry with blueberry adding saccharine richness ended the meal

At CAN 139 (at the time of my visit but has gone up to CAN 149) this was the most expensive tasting menu in Quebec, but with a strong US exchange rate this is a bargain and well worth it as I was treated with a fine multi-course meal by Chef Lebraun while showcasing the bounty of the region and its artisans. Most, if not all, of the ingredients were sourced locally and within Canada. He uses high quality ingredients prepared with meticulous and intricate combinations to create a contemporary French-Canadian cuisine. Each plate had multiple features that managed to complement one another to produce well balance flavors. There was a CAN 119 wine pairing arranged by Isabelle, the sommelier, that I opted out of and instead I gave her my price range that she was able to work with. It was a wonderful pairing that was spot on and interesting, especially when she paired one of the desserts with a sparkling rose that cut down the sweetness and gave it an additional taste.

Wine Pairing:

On the weekend evening of my visit the dining room was full of locals and tourists. Rolande assured that each guest was serviced to the utmost and that they were given a top notch dining experience. The staff was proficient, pleasant, and engaging. She visited every table often and even assisted in serving the food. Her hospitality from the time I spoke to her over the phone for my reservation and until my visit was unparalleled.

Restaurant Initiale is an outstanding restaurant, the cuisine identifies with Chef Lebrauns and the sublime hospitality by Rolande provided an unparalleled dining experience. It is the apex restaurant of Quebec City’s dining. And, just like every city in the world that has at least one or two restaurants that represent their city, Quebecers can proudly call Restaurant Initiale as their own.

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