De Librije
Broerenkerkplein 13-15
8011 TW Zwolle, Netherlands
+31 38 421 2083
Official Site
With the exception of Paris, most of Europe’s top eateries are located outside of the main cities in towns that you’ve never heard before. Traveling by train or car in order to get there is required and staying overnight at a hotel is almost mandatory. The Netherlands is no different. De Librije, arguably the finest restaurant in the country, also happens to be located 75 miles away from the capital Amsterdam in the city of Zwolle.
The restaurant is owned and operated by Chef /Patron Jonnie Boer and his wife Therese who serves a dual duty of sommelier and the Lady of the house. The couple met while working in De Librije and in 2002 they became the proud owners. Chef Boer began his career here as an apprentice in 1986 and for more than 20 years he has elevated De Librije to culinary stardom. Under his watchful eyes the restaurant was awarded three Michelin stars in 2009 (one of only two in the Netherlands) and has held it ever since. It’s consistently voted as one of the best restaurant in the world every year. Along the way he became one of the country’s most decorated chefs and a leading figure in Dutch gastronomy.
De Librije is housed in a 16th century monastery located in the middle of Zwolle. On my arrival I was welcomed with a friendly reception by one of the managers. He then led me through a short curved hallway, passing by the kitchen, and in to the luxurious dining room where my table awaited me. The airy dining room that can seat up to forty guests is designed with tall ceilings, partnered with large windows that provide plenty of natural light. The tables paired with high back black velvet seats are spaced perfectly. There is enough room for a conversation with out over hearing the neighboring diners. And in the middle hanging high above is a rustic crystal chandelier that serves as the centerpiece of the room.
As I perused at the menu I was served with a fermented tea that aroused my palate from all the flavors touching my taste buds. I had already decided for the eight course tasting for 185 Euros. The concept allows guests to choose four dishes and the kitchen will handle the rest.
To start was the amuse-bouche of shrimp and oysters that were both raw, served in a bowl that replicated the sea. There was also an anchovy crisp plated on the fish skeletal. A lovely presentation on both dish and the flavors of the North Sea. The next amuse-bouche was beef tartare and oyster, a signature dish of the restaurant that was assembled on top of my hand. Made with chive cream, lettuce, beef tartare, oyster, oyster cream, potato puffs and an oyster leaf all on top of each other were combined elegantly.
The first course was smoked mackerel with turmeric, tulip bulbs and goose liver that Chef Boer himself brought to my table. The dish was vibrant and colorful, with a lovely smoky flavor to match. Then followed a meaty piece of langoustine with vanilla kombucha and pickled vegetables that was processed in the restaurant. It was well balance and a bit acidic to my liking. Served in between the first two courses were warmed multigrain bread with goat butter.
Next was the sweet water perch with spices oil and mustard seed which had great depth and was properly supplemented with bitterness from the vegetables. The delicious bounty of the North Sea and its oceanic essence was on display in the following course, sole with beurre noisette, immature juniper berry, Jerusalem artichoke and crabs. There were a number of ingredients in this dish that went well together brilliantly.
After several seafood dishes, the next few courses were red meat. First up was sweet bread in BBQ pineapple and peanut sauce with miniature shrimp. This intricate combination was interesting. Next was the pigeon prepared in various ways that was perfectly cooked and made with star anise, white pepper, and kohlrabi juice which showcased a delectable variety of texture.
The Epoisses made with acid-curd cheese from the Bourgogne, rabbit kidneys and potato juices was similar to a cheese course. The texture was slimy but bearable and the pungent taste subdued the gaminess of the rabbit kidney.
The transition to sweets began with chocolate and cheese, a combination that complimented each other. Then came the solidified rice pudding with beet root liquor, orange, and coconut. The crispy, sweet and tangy taste was enjoyable. The sweet Thai green curry with mango, pineapple, and ginger beer was a killer fusion of sweet and spicy taste and the star of all the desserts. There were a few more sweets that followed, a yogurt and chocolate mint served on top of a rock and chocolate kisses in Maggie boxes, and finally dried orange with mascarpone to clean the palate ended the tasting. A parting gift of edible joint was very clever and fitting.
I did not bother for the wine list and instead requested the pairing that included wines that Theresa fermented herself. Each wine was properly designed to enhance the flavors of each course.
Growing up in the area, Chef Boer is familiar with the regions seasonal bounty that inspires the cuisine at De Librije. Each course in my tasting was exceptional and the richness of Northern Holland is on display in every plate. The technique in combining numerous components together to create multiple flavors was skillful. The absence of foie-gras, caviar and other luxurious ingredients that are commonly seen at three star restaurant were not missed.
Along with De Librije, the Boer’s also own two Michelin starred restaurant Librije’s Zusje and Librije’s Hotel within walking distance from each other. They know the importance of service. On my visit, Theresa was present in the dining room and her personal touch of hospitality was felt. She provided the guest the menu and answered their questions if there was any, then stopped by each table more than once to make sure each guest were well taken care of. This type of four star service trickles down to the young staff. In the beginning they were a little uptight but as the meal went on they adjusted and were more relaxed. In turn it made for a fun dining experience for me. Service was flawless, the dining room was patrolled every so often while the rest of the staff monitors each guest out of sight.
Wine Pairing:
Every eatery that I’ve visited in Amsterdam the staff never failed to mention De Librije as the nation’s premiere restaurant. After visiting, it is something that I will not argue with. I, myself, had a memorable meal there. From getting to the restaurant, walking through the charming street of Zwolle, to the actual meal, savoring each dish and up until the train back to Amsterdam was an experience that I can do all over again. De Librije is a restaurant that’s worth a special journey.
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In the stark whiteness of Studio 450 eight long tables for two have been set up with numbered placemats, each with nine glasses filled with various white and red wines. A small plate of hors d’oeuvres and a wine tasting booklet completed the setting for this daylong event of tastings and seminar.
