Bord’Eau
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2
1012 CP Amsterdam, Netherlands
+31 20 531 1705
Official Site
De L’Europe Hotel in the center of Amsterdam is one of the most luxurious accommodations in the city. Owned by the Heineken family and made famous by Alfred Hitchcock when he chose the hotel as a location for his film Foreign Correspondent. It also houses the two Michelin star restaurant Bord’Eau.
Opened in 2012 Bord’Eau received its first star after only a few months in operation, then the second star a year later. In two years the restaurant propelled to gastronomic feat, accomplishing that which is rarely done.
Bord’Eau is located in the lobby of the hotel, its contemporary designed dining room has evenly spaced tables covered in white cloth to match with comfortable ivory padded chairs.Gold rounded plates hang above, filling the low ceilings, while the walls are adorned with metallic gold. There are windows sizeable enough to provide plenty of natural light in the room. Sets of two top tables by the windows overlooking the Amstel River is preferred seating if available. There’s also a private dining enclosed with glass cases that display an array of bottled wine.
The restaurant offers two set menus, a five course for 98 Euros and the six-course for 10 euros more. A la carte is also available but on my visit I had the six course tasting.
My meal began with a cup of strong flavored duck broth with added spices that I found pleasing. Following the broth were a crisp, sweet and salty lobster canapé and a sour, yet alluring, oyster with red wine canapé.
Tasting Menu:
Afterwards a smooth and creamy foam of risotto, truffles and egg yolk was served. Tartare of veal, caviar and marrow that was simply sublime was next. A combo that is always wonderful.
My first official course was beetroot baked in salt and crust with wasabi ice cream, an interesting marriage of Asian flavors. The fresh vegetables and the cold temperature from the ice cream was ingenious. A big piece of succulent scallop with cream of artichoke and black truffle was the next course. The sweet deep sea flavor of the scallop and earthiness of the generous shaving of black truffles was immaculate.
Langoustine with jus, coconut served with tempura vegetables, and hand of Buddah was the next course. An Asian inspired dish where the langoustine was perfectly prepared with the sauce enhancing the taste.
Next was the fillet of sole and fennel, crunchy and stewed with gnocchi, zest of lemon and sea urchin sauce. The different flavors profiled in this dish worked in harmony with one another.
The lone red meat on the menu was the Duck a la Royale with young turnip and salted lemon that was too salty if eaten by itself. Head sommelier, Dennis Apeldoorn, was genius in pairing Austrian St. Laurent wine that reduced the saltiness and turned it into an enjoyable dish.
The dessert was a piece of art and visually stunning. Crystallized sugar, in the form of a green apple where the inside was made of green apple sorbet shaped to replicate the apple core. Even the seeds where made of chocolate! It sat on top of caramel and walnuts. If there was a perfect ten dessert this would be it. This alone highlighted the tasting menu.
Along with my tasting I added the wine pairing for 78 Euros that Dennis Appledorn paired with each course brought out an additional level of taste. The wines are predominantly French which was fitting for this restaurant.
This was a fantastic meal, as the dishes were sophisticated as well as well put together. The man responsible for the kitchen is Executive Chef Richard van Oosetnbrugge. He previously oversaw Restaurant Envy in Amsterdam before being tapped to handle all of De L’Europe Hotel eateries. His French cuisine, using local ingredients, at Bord’Eau has earned him the GaultMillau Chef of the year in 2014.
Like any fine dining in Europe the service is professional, a bit uptight but welcoming. The staff were friendly and I liked the fact the maître d recognized that I was a solo diner and provided reading materials while I waited in between courses. The service matched the food and made my dining experience at Bord’Eau an outstanding one.
Wine Pairing:
Visitors come to Amsterdam for the famous canals, architectures and even the Red Light district. As far as being a fine dining destination, it’s still not there. It has plenty of good restaurants and the ethnic food scene rivals that of New York City. What it lacks is fine dining that will put it on the map of gastronomy. With the emergence of Bord’Eau this restaurant might actually do that.
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