L’Astrance
4 Rue Beethoven
75116 Paris, France
+33 1 40 50 84 40
Official Website
With ninety-four Michelin starred restaurants scattered throughout Paris to go along with a large number of quality bistros, brasseries, and wine bars, it is easy to say that Parisians takes their food and wine seriously. Fine dining is in abundance and as the epicenter and the originator of haute cuisine, the city has 9 three Michelin starred restaurants, more than any other city in the world outside of Tokyo. One of its top restaurants, L’Astrance in the 16th arrondissement which serves creative French fare with global emphasis, is high on travelling epicureans list to visit while in Paris. Led by Chef Pascal Barbot and Maitre d’ Christophe Rohat, the restaurant has had three stars since 2007 and continuously appears in the San Pelligrino’s The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
Chef Barbot worked under Alain Passard at Arpege where he and Christophe met (who was responsible for the front of the house). Upon his departure, Chef Barbot was the head chef and the right hand man of Chef Passard. He travelled the globe to cook before reconnecting with Christophe in 2000 to open L’Astrance. The restaurant was well received and quickly ascended to the top after being awarded a Michelin star in 2001 after just a few months of opening. Four years later it received the second one and finally the third in 2007. Not only was this one of the very best that Paris had to offer but it is also one of the toughest tables to score. Opened from Tuesday to Friday, L’Astrance is only able to accept a maximum of twenty-five diners per service. With the time difference between Paris and New York, using a concierge came in handy especially if it required waking up in the wee hours of the morning to call the restaurant for an available table.
L’Astrance is tucked in a quiet residential street near by the banks of the River Sienne directly across from the Eiffel Tower. Its store front glass windows are covered in wooden sticks bundled at the stems. Upon entering, there is an aged old wooden bar in the front for the sommelier to do his tasting before serving each glass of wine. The interior is designed with high ceilings, dark marble floorings, and grey walls with oversized mirrors hanging. Plush lemon leather covered seats and benches are paired with tables that are tight knit within each other. Its lofty layout provided additional seating in the balcony accessible by spiral stairs.
All of L’Astrance menu is listed as a surprise, there are no itemized listing nor a la carte. The EUR 70 prix fixe, EUR 120 five courses for lunch, and “Menu Astrance” their EUR 230 tasting menu, the only option for dinner. The “Menu Astrance” was my choice on my visit and by Parisian standard it is the most economical multi-course meal compared to others of the same level.
Menu Astrance:
A pair of tasty bite sized crispy short bread and mushroom wafers started my culinary voyage to the unknown. The first course called Paris tart is one of Chef Barbot’s signature dishes. Layers of foie gras, thinly sliced mushroom and apple stacked on top of each other was a handsome assortment of buttery, earthy, and sweet elements that was complemented with roasted lemon puree and hazelnut oil. The next course was Oyster from Brittany with scallops and bone marrow. It had a defined flavor of the deep sea and along with the bone marrow, which provided another dimension, this was an interesting blend that the kitchen pulled off excellently. An additional crispy roll with ginger mint and vegetable filling was served on the side as a supplement completing a sublime dish.
For the third course a beautiful piece of sea bass sitting on top of risotto cooked in cauliflower. The bass had a firm texture and clean taste, while the bergamot gave it added zest. The touch of saffron for a little spice and the intensity of the goat cheese helped to even all the flavors. Parmigiana cream with celery and black truffles followed after. Plated to resemble a yin and yang design, the celery puree, thickened with parmigiana, created a cream with strong flavors. On the other hand the pungency of truffle gave this dish an even contrast of two different tastes that got along flawlessly.
The meal continued on with a “Guinea fowl”. Cooked superbly, the texture was extremely tender and flavorful. Parmesan cream gave some richness and the mushroom sauce added flavors that married well with the fowl meat. Miso caramel chips were served alongside this fine dish. Next was roasted duck with cabbage, duck sauce and condiments of olives and coffees. The duck was roasted to perfection the meat was soft and scrumptious. There was a hint of saltiness from the sauce and olives that could have been overpowering but was neutralized by incorporating the coffee for a slight bitterness as a balancer to this amazing dish. Served along with it was a bowl of vivid fresh salad covering a delectable duck liver toast buried beneath.
Moving on from the savory and to clear the palate was a refreshing sorbet with a touch of chili and ginger. Chocolate tart was for dessert, a thick sweet of chocolaty pleasure with great consistency. Mandarin sorbet was also served simultaneously. An interesting dessert dish as it has a mingling of cool fruitiness and some savory. Then finally ending the meal were warm and tasty madeleines, aromatic Jasmine eggnog, and a plate of fresh fruits.
At the start there was no telling what I was in for but when the meal concluded the kitchen delivered a remarkable tasting. “Menu Astrance” was truly surprising and joyous to the taste buds. Chef Barbot’s technical skills fused different elements to create dishes that were both light and savory. The pacing in between courses was of a timely manner allowing me to enjoy and savor every dish. To complement the tasting, sommelier Alexander Jean assembled a perfect wine pairing of mainly French wine which brought out an extra flavor from each course, it was harmonious.
Wine Pairing:
The atmosphere in the dining room was relaxed and intimate. L’Astrance staffs were interactive while also maintaining their formality. There was a bit of cockiness and to some might be interpreted as arrogance but they do it in a fun way. Christophe’s presence in the dining room assured each and every guest received a faultless service.
Decorated chefs like Alain Ducasse, Yannick Alleno, Guy Savoy, Pierre Gagnaire have all set shop in Paris and all have built a global culinary empire. Unlike them and other great Parisian chefs, Chef Barbot owns and operates one restaurant, much like his mentor Alain Passard. He devotes his effort at L’Astrance and can be seen majority of the time behind the stoves. With this, guests are guaranteed to have a meal that has met his standards. As one of most sought after tables in Paris the expectation was high. Chef Barbot’s arsenal was on full force on my visit and he delivered one of the best meals I’ve had so far.
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