De Godevaart
Sint-Katelijnevest 23
2000 Antwerp, Belgium
+32 3 231 89 94
Official Site
Highly underrated, Antwerp gastronomy lives in the shadow of other Belgian cities like Bruges and Brussels. It has quality eateries that’s worth a visit and I can attest to that after spending four days eating my way through various places. From visiting Michelin starred restaurants to countless bistros and brasseries, the city owns a solid dining landscape. There are places that deserve more recognition like De Goodevart in Old Antwerp. Highly rated among locals and epicureans alike it hasn’t really taken off for global recognition, although web search results favorable write ups and reviews.
Housed in an historic building, De Godevaart has three dining rooms and an outdoor terrace (available during nice weather) that is frequented by locals. The room in the front is airy, bright, and tall ceilings with plenty of whites. The other rooms are a tad darker with more colors and an old fire place with a large mirror above. Walls are designed with intricate artistry as well as showcasing artwork of various musicians and two antiquated chandeliers that lights up the space. The outdated interior has floors that have seen its better days. There is very little privacy among guests as the tables are close to each other.
The kitchen is under the guidance of a young and talented Chef/Patron Dave De Belder. He has a dazzling resume that includes cooking at some of the worlds most renowned restaurants like El Bulli, and El Celler De Can Roca in Spain, and the Netherlands with De Librije. When he opened De Godevaart he introduced molecular gastronomy to the city of Antwerp.
There are several set menu choices along with an a la carte. The prices are expensive, yet I wanted to experience Chef De Belder’s talent. I opted for the 110 Euros seven course menu with dessert. I was on to a culinary adventure that began with bread sticks placed on top of parmesan cream sprinkled with dried tomato. Then fried chicken skin with cheese seasoned with chili and garlic was served. It had a burst of flavor with a beautiful crunch.
Tasting Menu:
The first course started with the delicate flavors of Octopus with chilled mussel broth and fennel. The chilling of the broth while retaining the mussels flavor was both a bold and clever move by the chef. Afterwards cod and shrimp with leeks was served. Not only was the cod center stage, it was also in the background infused within the broth. This created two varied types of mildness. Halibut with rocket salad and Jerusalem artichoke was the third course. The fish’s firm texture and clean taste were complimented very well with its sauce and other elements.
The next course was hearty Texan meat ribs with buttermilk and pickled vegetables. In this dish the chef decided to turn up the heat and added some spiciness to a fantastically moist pulled meat covered in eggs, sunny side up style. This was followed by a dish made of two types of beef, the wagyu and charoalis with buckwheat and artichoke. A carnivores delight that showcased these individual mouthwatering flavors cooked to perfection.
The first dessert course was a signature dish that was brilliantly prepared and displayed creativity. It was a duplicate of a forest where the soil is made from chocolate, mushroom made of chocolate mousse, greens from pistachios and mandarin gel to give it some color. This visually stunning dessert was delicious. Then finally, coffee yoghurt and bergamot dessert was served, combining a bitter and sweet taste balancing the contrast of flavors.
In this tasting menu the complexity of each course came with an excellent amount of textures and flavors. There is serious talent in the kitchen that is far superior to some of the one and even two star restaurants that I’ve visited. If there was something De Godevaart could add to their repertoire, it would be a wine pairing. During my visit it was not available with their tasting menu but I was still able to enjoy a few glasses of whites recommended by my server.
Service was attentive and engaging to some degree. From the moment I walked in, genuine and welcoming smiles were flying from its all female staff dressed in black from top to bottom. The pleasantness and the relaxed atmosphere in the dining room from the staff dictated a wonderful dining experience.
When a restaurant charges steep prices the expectation is high and disappointment often occurs, but here the prices are warranted. From start to finish the kitchen and staff deliver. Chef De Belder’s innovative cooking technique merits at least a star or two that the Michelin guide cannot keep overlooking. To call De Godevaart underrated is an understatement, this is an excellent restaurant that will eventually gets its due.
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