Taian ***

Taian
1-21-2 Shimanouchi, Chuo-ku,
Osaka, 542-0082, Japan
+81 6-6120-0790

In Japan, there are plenty of small restaurants that are independently owned and operated by families. Some have been in the same family for multiple generations. Typically, the husband serves as the chef while the wife manages the front of the house. Osaka’s three Michelin-starred Taian operates in exactly this manner. Chef Hitoshi Takahata, along with his wife who oversees the dining room, owns Taian. Under their watch, the restaurant has held three Michelin stars since 2011. Prior to opening Taian, Chef Takahata spent fifteen years at Ajikitcho, a well-established kaiseki restaurant in Osaka.

Taian boasts a small, intimate space with a long wooden bar that seats about sixteen guests. The interior is simple, creating a relaxed atmosphere akin to dining at someone’s home. On the evening of my visit, I observed a mix of casually dressed Asian tourists in t-shirts and jeans along with locals.

The restaurant exclusively offers a kaiseki meal every evening, which begins with a series of small dishes served simultaneously. The radish soup offers a pleasantly surprising bitterness, while the yam potato noodles provide a nice sweet earthiness. The oysters boast a deep sea essence that pairs wonderfully with the bitterness of the radish, and the seaweed sauce introduces an oceanic vegetal element. What a terrific introduction to the meal.

Next, I enjoyed a white miso soup with tofu, radish mustard, and Japanese tara milt (a delicacy in Japan). The soup has a unique richness derived from the milt, while the tofu adds a bitter spiciness. This was followed by a sashimi course of thinly sliced blowfish and yellowtail, accompanied by white radish, red radish, pepper, and ponzu sauce. While the blowfish offered a subtle, almost flavorless taste, dipping it in ponzu sauce enhanced its flavor with a wonderful citric tang. In contrast, the delicate yellowtail was simply terrific.

I was then served Sanuki wagyu beef with salt and pepper, ponzu, honey miso, and chicken miso sauce. This rare breed of cows from Kagawa prefecture boasts a unique flavor derived from being mainly fed olive branches. The beef was grilled to perfection, juicy, and had the perfect pinkness to it. Dipping the beef in different sauces and salt and pepper provided a variety of flavors, although I preferred it as is due to its already rich flavor.

Following this, I enjoyed deep-fried yuba with crab, served piping hot. The fried yuba was extra crunchy and served as the perfect vessel for the tasty crab filling. Although visually simple, the dish was incredibly satisfying. This was followed by another soup dish of spinach and clams with katsu broth. The broth was extremely flavorful and complemented the strong oceanic taste of the clams. Topped off with blanched spinach and shaved ginger, the duo added another layer of bitterness and a gingery spice.

The final savory course was a rice dish made with fugu fish accompanied by a small cup of clear fish broth. The rice had a terrific fish taste, while the broth boasted a sharp seafood flavor.

For dessert, I was served a glass of Japanese fruits with brandy jelly and orange liqueur. This offered an interesting fruity flavor with a hint of zest, and the sweet alcoholic jelly helped bind all the elements together.

Taian’s kaiseki was wonderful, with flavors slightly bolder than other kaiseki meals I’ve had in Japan. The dishes were simple yet perfectly executed, featuring top-tier ingredients. Despite occasional repetition of certain ingredients in the kaiseki, Chef Takahata showcased remarkable skill in seamlessly integrating them with other components on the plate.The beverage pairing, which included a blend of sake, European, and Australian wines, elevated the dining experience, perfectly complementing each bite.

During my visit, Chef Takahata was behind the counter, personally preparing each plate and engaging with guests alongside his chefs. His wife warmly greeted guests upon their arrival, setting a welcoming tone for the evening. Together, they provided warm Japanese hospitality in a relaxed and homey atmosphere.

Beverage Pairing:

In contrast to the opulence often associated with three-Michelin-starred restaurants, Taian stands out with its modest decor and an approachable price point. However, there is no compromise on quality—the food and service are of three-star standards.

Despite extreme online reviews—either love or hate—my visit to Taian was a personal delight. Impressed by every aspect of my dinner, I found Taian to be a highly capable three-Michelin-starred restaurant, likely to surprise and captivate many visitors, as it did for me.

Sushi Harasho **

Sushi Harasho
3-30 Uenomiyacho, Tennoji-ku,
Osaka, 543-0037, Japan
+81 50-1807-8488
Official Site

In 2009, when the Michelin guide unveiled its inaugural edition for the Kansai region (Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara), Sushi Harasho swiftly earned two stars. Owner/chef Takumi Ishikawa has consistently upheld this prestigious accolade in consecutive years, including the guide’s latest edition. Presently, it stands as one of only two sushi restaurants in Osaka with two Michelin stars

Nestled in a tranquil residential section of Osaka, Sushi Harasho’s unassuming exterior seamlessly blends with the neighboring houses. Inside, the ambiance is serene, and the interior is modest, featuring a long and wide hanoki wooden counter top seating twelve guests at any given time, complemented by low wooden chairs that surprisingly offer comfort.

At Sushi Harasho, the only option available is the omakase. The experience commenced with the Octopus, prepared to perfection with firm yet easily chewable meat. The subsequent course featured Sea Cucumber with radish, though I found it a bit too rough for my taste buds. The chef seemed heavy-handed with the radish, resulting in an overly bitter flavor. Despite my efforts, I couldn’t bring myself to finish the dish.

Omakase:

The following courses included two varieties of sashimi. The Sea Bream had a clean and delicate taste, while the Mackerel, marinated in vinegar, was delectable, boasting a terrific crispy skin. This was succeeded by a delightful Crab dish, complemented by a delicious creamy crab roe.

Chawanmushi, a savory steamed egg custard served piping hot, was exceptional, featuring chopped pieces of meaty clams beneath the custard. Nodoguro, a type of sea perch, was grilled beautifully, with charred and crispy skin enveloping uberly tender meat. The next dish featured Fish Roe in three different types of sliced cured fish eggs, each offering a distinct pungency and salinity.

Transitioning to the nagiris after a succession of small plates, the experience began with a fine piece of Squid, boasting a silky, chewy texture brushed with soy sauce, imparting a note of salty sweetness. Sayori, or Halfbeak, had a nice mild and sweet flavor, coupled with a silky texture. Akami followed, presenting a less fatty cut of tuna that was equally delicious. The O-Toro, with its beautiful marbling, was a sight to behold, offering an extremely buttery, luscious, and flavorful experience.

Continuing the journey, the Shad aka Kohada featured a slight oiliness and richness, while Kinmedai exhibited delicacy with a good fat content. Expertly prepared Shrimp showcased a type of tenderness yet firmness in the meat, and the Yellow Tail followed with light richness and slight sweetness. Next, a beautiful piece of scrumptious Uni was served.

The subtle Miso Soup allowed the quality of tofu to shine through, and contrary to the customary Japanese meal practice where soup often signals the meal’s end, at Sushi Harasho, more delights awaited. Immediately following, a very tasty Eel sweetened wonderfully with sweet soy sauce was presented. A small bowl of fresh, crunchy Cabbage served as a palate cleanser, followed by the Kappamaki or cucumber sushi roll with red clam tendon, offering an interesting subtle sweetness and a hint of oceanic presence. The culmination of this omakase was the Futomaki with a delectable egg and vegetable filling.

The succession of small plates at the beginning of the omakase was delightful, and the nigiris were equally sublime. The sushi rice, more subtle than usual, lacked the sweet vinegary component often added, perfectly complementing the richness and fattiness of the fishes in this omakase. The seasonal and top-notch ingredients were extremely fresh, leaving a definitive taste.

A large bottle of Premium Yebisu Japanese beer and sake, recommended by the sommelier, paired seamlessly with each dish. As expected, there was no sweet ending to this omakase, in line with the common tradition among traditional sushiyas in Japan.

The service at Sushi Harasho was characterized by a laid-back and hospitable demeanor. The staff’s friendliness, coupled with occasional jokes and earnest attempts at conversation, made the experience all the more enjoyable. The chefs behind the counter communicated in English, aided by a picture book containing ingredient information for foreign guests facing language barriers.

Remarkably, Sushi Harasho manages to offer quality sushi at a more affordable price. Following my visit, I comprehended why it is highly recommended and considered among the finest sushiyas in Osaka. This establishment is nothing short of a fantastic restaurant and an absolute must for all sushi enthusiasts.

Kashiwaya ***

Kashiwaya
2-5-18 Senriyamanishi, Suita,
Osaka, 565-0851, Japan
+81 6-6386-2234
Official Site

As the third most populous city in Japan with over 2 million inhabitants, Osaka is widely known as the kitchen of Japan, a title bestowed upon the city during the Edo period. It boasts a diverse gastronomic landscape offering various cuisines at different price points. In fact, Osaka has the fourth highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants on Earth, surpassing other culinary centers such as Hong Kong, London, and New York. However, it is often overshadowed by Japan’s more famous cities like Tokyo and Kyoto. Among the notable establishments in Osaka is Kashiwaya, one of the city’s three Michelin-starred restaurants.

Kashiwaya has been a family-operated restaurant since 1977 and is currently under the ownership of Chef Hideaki Matsuo , the son of the original owner. Chef Matsuo assumed the role of master chef in 1993, and under his guidance, Kashiwaya garnered two stars in the first Michelin guide in 2009 for the Kansai region. The coveted third star followed a year later in 2010, a distinction it has proudly maintained ever since. Additionally, Kashiwaya holds the Michelin Green Star award and is a distinguished member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant group.

The restaurant is situated in the Suita district outside Osaka’s city center, and taking a taxi is the most convenient and recommended mode of transportation to reach it. Kashiwaya’s unassuming facade seamlessly blends with the other houses on the street, making it easy to overlook. Upon entering the gates, guests are greeted by a serene Japanese garden, setting a tranquil atmosphere. A gracious hostess, dressed in a traditional kimono, warmly welcomes me and guides me through a sliding door to my washitsu, or Japanese traditional room. I immediately feel a sense of privacy as I have the room all to myself. The room is furnished with a short table, a back-supporting cushion, and floors covered in thick tatami mats where I had to sit during the duration of this meal.

There are multiple kaiseki options offered at the restaurant, but on this visit, I opted for the “Ran” menu. Before starting the kaiseki, a delightful plum tea was presented, awakening the palate. This was immediately followed by the first course of Sakizuke – spot prawn, sea urchin,canola flower with butterbur paste, yam, carrot and radish, wasabi. This dish exuded a pleasant oceanic essence, with the prawns offering a beautiful sweetness. The spicy bitterness supplied by the radish and wasabi helped create a well-balanced dish.

“Ran”:

Kae – mackarel sushi rolled in turnip, salmon roe was the next. The raw turnip was crunchy, and its mild spiciness was perfect with the mackerel’s fatty features. Meanwhile, the side of salmon roe provided a wonderful saltiness to the dish, especially when eaten together. Then came the Nimonowa – Ise lobster, shiitake mushroom, turnip, jinbasou, syungiku, yuzu. This bowl of soup was infused with robust lobster flavors, accompanied by pleasant earthy notes. The lobster meat, mushrooms, and other vegetables wonderfully absorbed the flavor-packed broth.

On to the sashimi course of Otsukuri – Long tooth grouper, tuna, Miru clam, bofu, carrot and radish, red tade, wasabi, two soy sauces (mixed with kelp and sudachi juice). The sashimis were fresh and clean tasting. They were served with two kinds of soy sauce, each imparting a different type of saltiness to the sashimis, both of which were equally terrific. That was followed by the Kan – Matsuba crab, blowfish milt, mitsuba with Yoshino kazu starch soup in yuzu cup. Presented within a whole yuzu, this wonderful dish features a thick starchy texture combined with flavorful crab meat and the intriguing salty creaminess of the blowfish milt. Following instructions, I squeezed the yuzu cover, revealing another dimension to the dish. 


Hassun – Egg yolk sushi (salmon, halfbeak, cucumber), abalone, karasumi and radish, black bean jelly, tara sprout, Shirae (soba see, white cloud mushroom, lotus root, ginkgo, pine nut mixed with tofu paste) – Udo, ricotta cheese, stem lettuce skewered on pine needle was served on two small plates. One plate featured egg yolk sushi wrapped in salmon, halfbeak, and cucumber, offering interesting blends of eggy sweetness, a touch of sourness, and the freshness of the fish. Additionally, thick pieces of superb abalone and sweet black bean jelly adorned this plate. The other plate held a tofu salad with very good earthy notes

The Yakimono – Tilefish grilled with misoyuan sauce, hataken with mustard was grilled elegantly. The fish was delicate, and the skin was extra crispy. Its sharp salinity was perfectly balanced by the bitterness of the mustard leaf. Next came the Hachi – Densuke conger eel, ebiimo (taro), spinach, tachibana pepper. The eel was prepared masterfully, so delicate it melted like cotton candy in the mouth, and it was extremely delicious. The dashi kombu broth produced an umami taste that elevated the eel to another level. Gohan Shiru – Steamed rice mixed with butterbur, Japanese pepper leaf, saikyo miso soup (shiokujira, radish, white leak, mustard) was the final savory course of this kaiseki. The steamed rice emitted beautiful vegetal aromas, and the miso soup, containing salted whale meat, was uniquely tasty.


Transitioning over to the sweet courses, I was served the Mizumono – Hassaku and strawberry, which featured Hassaku, a citrus from Japan, and Japanese strawberries. These fruits were truly exceptional, incredibly fresh and vibrant. To conclude the meal, I enjoyed the Kashi – Akebono kinton, which had a grainy texture with a subtle sweetness that I found enjoyable. It was accompanied by matcha tea that was creamier and different from what I’ve had before.

Kashiwaya’s seafood-centric kaiseki was excellent, showcasing cooking at the highest level and an unparalleled attention to detail. The cuisine was characterized by simplicity, yet it boasted beautiful flavors that were both light and subtle. Chef Matsuo meticulously sources the finest, in-season ingredients, allowing him to utilize them at their absolute peak.

Opting for the sommelier-recommended sake pairing with this kaiseki was indeed a wise choice. The selection comprised ten premium brands of sake from various regions of Japan. Each sake, with its distinct characteristics, impeccably enhanced the flavors of each course. The sommelier’s choices were spot on and added an extra layer of enjoyment to the dining experience.

The service was exceptional. The female servers, dressed in impeccably arranged kimonos, were highly respectful and communicated fluently in English, likely due to the significant number of foreign diners visiting. They were unobtrusive, displaying a keen sense of privacy by knowing precisely when to clear empty plates or refill glasses of water, appearing inside the room seamlessly. At the end of the meal, Chef Matsuo graciously made an appearance to express gratitude for my visit and ensure my safe departure in a taxi. Japanese hospitality was truly on display that evening.

Sake Pairing:

There are multiple kaiseki options offered at different price points at Kashiwaya, making it accessible to many. While those with deeper pockets can indulge in an option that showcases more premium ingredients at a higher price point, the “Ran” option that I had was more than enough to experience how wonderful this restaurant is at a fair price.

In Osaka, where there is an abundance of dining choices, Kashiwaya stands out as the restaurant to visit for traditional kaiseki dining at the highest level. This three Michelin-starred establishment delivers an impeccable dining experience.

Dirt Candy *

Dirt Candy
86 Allen Street
New York NY 10002
(212) 228-7732
Website

Finding vegetarian options in New York City these days is no longer the challenge it once was, thanks to the growing number of vegetarian and veggie-focused eateries that have cropped up in recent years. Among these, Dirt Candy stands out as the premier vegetarian restaurant in the city, having paved the way for vegetarian cuisine long before it gained widespread popularity.

Dirt Candy opened in 2008, in a tiny space in the East Village under the guidance of Chef and Owner Amanda Cohen. It quickly garnered attention, receiving a two-star review from the New York Times. In 2015, the restaurant moved to its current, more spacious location on Allen Street. In 2022, the Michelin Guide bestowed a well-deserved one-star rating upon Dirt Candy, making it the sole vegetarian restaurant in New York City to achieve such recognition.

The restaurant’s interior is both welcoming and expansive, featuring an open kitchen with a prominent white marble counter top stretching the length of the space. The dining area is adorned with dark oak tables paired with comfortable ivory padded chairs, floor-to-ceiling storefront glass windows that flood the room with natural light, concrete flooring, and exposed steel beams, creating an industrial-chic atmosphere. During our visit, we had the pleasure of being seated at the counter, which offers a front-row view of the chefs meticulously crafting our dishes, adding an interactive and immersive element to the dining experience.

Dirt Candy is only open for dinner and offers a tasting menu initially priced at $90 during our visit (currently at $105), which includes service. Our dinner began with the Corn – corn mousse, fresh corn, seaweed caviar and baby corn where corn took center stage. The kitchen masterfully showcased the versatility of corn, creating diverse textures and flavors on the plate. The second course, a complimentary offering from the kitchen, featured precisely cut green beans arranged in a circular shape atop creamy avocado. The grassy notes of the beans paired surprisingly well with the buttery avocado cream.


Tomato – tomato cake, yellow tomato jam, tomato leather, smoke feta spotlights the diverse sweetness and acidity found in various tomato varieties. The savory tomato cake was executed to perfection, and the smoked feta added a wonderful touch of smokiness, which balanced the overall acidity on the plate. It was undoubtedly the standout dish during the tasting. Following that, we were served the Carrot Raita, another complimentary course. The combination of carrot crisps with frozen yogurt, along with both cooked and pickled carrots, offered a refreshing experience. Each bite revealed subtle hints of sourness, a touch of spiciness, and an earthy sweetness


Our dinner continued with Summer Squash – zucchini soup dumpling, zucchini ribbons, squash blossoms, black vinegar. The zucchini dumpling was sublime, bursting with an exceptionally rich flavor. The plate offered subtle, sweet, and floral notes that contributed to its depth and complexity. Eggplant – sesame eggplant, chermoula ranch, black sesame tahini was the main course. This delectable dish featured eggplant sliced into a ring and expertly deep-fried in sesame batter, resulting in extra crispy texture. Accompanied by an eggplant salad and labneh, this combination added a bright and delightful dimension to the overall flavor profile.


For dessert the Cucumber – cucumber jam, white chocolate, dill pickle merengue, melon sorbet was served. This fascinating dessert seamlessly combined refreshing, creamy, and sugary elements. The addition of pickled meringue on top added a smores-like twist to the dish.

Dinner at Dirt Candy was a pure vegetal delight. The kitchen’s masterful culinary techniques were on full display, as they artfully used fresh, vibrant vegetables to craft a symphony of textures and flavor compositions. Despite the standard five-course tasting menu, we were pleasantly surprised by the addition of two extra courses, leaving us perfectly satisfied. The absence of meat and animal by-products went unnoticed, and we didn’t yearn for the typical accompaniments of bread, amuse-bouche, or pre-dessert. To elevate our dining experience, I opted for the $50 wine pairing, which featured five glasses of organic and natural wines expertly selected to complement each course.


Dirt Candy’s staff were not only personable but also exceptionally pleasant, providing a relaxed yet attentive service that matched the restaurant’s laid-back atmosphere. The eclectic selection of music in the dining room added to the overall experience, and sitting at the counter allowed us to engage and converse with the chefs, some of whom prepared and served our food themselves.

Wine Pairing:


Our first experience dining at a vegetarian tasting-menu-only restaurant exceeded our expectations. I found myself thoroughly enjoying Dirt Candy, from the exceptional food to the friendly staff. It came as no surprise that after our visit, the Michelin guide awarded Dirt Candy a well-deserved star.

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana ***

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana
At Landmark Alexandra 
Shop 202, 18 Chater Rd, Central 
Hong Kong, China 
+852 2537 8859
Website

Out of 120 plus restaurants to be awarded with three Michelin stars, there are only a handful of Italian restaurants with this distinction worldwide, and almost all of them are in Italy. The very first restaurant of its kind to be awarded with three stars outside of the Italian peninsula was 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bomban in Hong Kong. Owned and operated by Italian born chef Umberto Bombana, famously known as the “King of White Truffles” as he was the one responsible for introducing Hong Kong to this luxurious fungi.    

Chef Bombana worked at Antica Osteria del Ponte with chef Enzio Santin before moving to the US, and then to Hong Kong where he was at the helm of the kitchen at Toscana in The Ritz Carlton. When that restaurant closed in 2008 he opened 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana two years later. Named after the chef’s favorite Italian movie directed by Federico Fellini, it debuted in the 2011 Michelin guide and was awarded two stars right off the bat, followed by the third star a year later which it has maintained ever since. Ascension to the top of the echelon was rapid and capitalizing in its success, Chef Bombana opened two other branches in Shanghai and Macau, which respectably has two and one Michelin stars. He also has the Michelin starred Octavium in Hong Kong and Opera Bombana in Beijing. 

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana is housed inside the Alexandra House, a mixed used office and retail building in Central, Hong Kong. Guests are treated by a world renowned bar as soon as they enter. The bar itself has garnered numerous praises within the industry and has been included in Asia’s 50 Best Bars. The dining room had oversized tables covered in thick white tablecloths, paired with leather padded wooden chairs and semi circular swayed banquet seating. Its low ceiling is designed with abstract mirrors, and the glass windows have the view of Central’s skyscrapers. 

The dining options offer a la carte, lunch set menu, and a degustation menu available for both lunch and dinner. The choice for this visit was the degustation menu. Dinner began with freshly baked bread, crispy crackers and bread sticks served with butter on the side. This was immediately followed by an appetizer; a bowl of chanterelle mushrooms drenched in cream of mushroom sauce, and blanketed with generous shaving of white truffles. This was a fantastic way to start the meal. 

For the first course, Marinated Shima – Aji with oscietra caviar “Caviar Colony”, champagne dressing was served. Mariated Shima-aji, also known as striped jack, has a clean and delicate taste. Complementing the fish’s fatty features was the citrus element of the champagne sauce and the salinity from the caviar.  Next was the Warm Blue Lobster broccolini emulsion, lobster jus. Perfectly cooked lobster tail was equally firm and tender. The lobster jus was robust and had plenty of depth. On this plate the kitchen fully showcases the diversity of the lobster by presenting it in a variety of ways.      

“Cotechino”, Italian sausage, baby lentils and red wine sauce was an extra course and was not included in the tasting. This hearty dish is traditionally served on New Year’s Eve and is made up of Italian sausage and lentils as its main component.  The house-made Italian sausage has a terrific saltiness that was subdued by the bed of lentils it sat on. Supplying a pleasant sweetness was the red wine sauce. And the garnish of fresh vegetables provided texture as well as some colors. The next course was a pasta course of Veal and Mushroom Agnolotti roasted mushroom and mushroom jus. Cooked al dente, the agnolotti was draped with bountiful shaving of black truffles. It’s filling, a mixture of veal and mushroom was delicious, and the mushroom jus yields a sharp earthiness.     

The main course was the Short Rib & Beef Tenderloin – whipped potato, red wine and plum sauce. Both the short ribs and the tenderloin were medium rare with a beautiful pinkish middle. They were succulent and full of flavors. The thick sauce from red wine and plum provided a certain type of sweetness that elevated the dish. Fresh vibrant vegetables and whipped potato were a pleasant companion on the plate.

Prior to dessert, the maitre’d put on a show and prepared a Limochello table side. It was cold,creamy and zesty. This combination was a refreshing palate cleanser. Dessert was the Hazelnut- “millefoglie”, hazelnut gelato and vanilla sauce which has layers of sweetness, and accompanied by a cloudy, sugary, hazelnut gelato. The vanilla sauce added an extra component of sweetness to the dessert. More sweets followed after, in particular the ricotta cheese cake was terrific. Then finally chocolates for petites fours officially marked the end of the meal.

This multi-course dinner was enjoyable. Every plate had a combination of flavors that were uncomplicated and worked in harmony together. The use of luxurious and fresh local ingredients were well executed. The kitchen successfully applied their own modern twist to traditional Italian dishes. With the tasting menu, I opted for the wine pairing. It consists of six glasses of Italian wines that were thoughtfully curated by the sommelier. The wines paired were excellent and were extremely complimentary with every course. 

Service at the restaurant was ultra formal. The staff was a mixture of locals and foreigners who were all extremely professional and well trained. They were a bit stiff and almost robotic, yet they will engage from time to time. On the other hand, the maitre’d was very much involved and conversed with guests for a long period. It was nice to see Chef Bombana at the restaurant the night of my visit. He made his rounds in the dining room, stopping at every table more than once during dinner. 

Wine Pairing:

8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana is popular among traveling gastronomes, business people and especially the well-heeled Hong Kongers. When I dined on a Monday evening, the dining room was boisterous and every table was occupied. Dinner is pricey; however, it is still slightly affordable than other three-star meals in the US, Europe and Japan. Even more approachable compared to other three Michelin starred places in Hong Kong. 

With all the accolades that 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana has received, this restaurant is widely considered as among the best in Asia. However the question still remains: is this the best Italian restaurant outside of Italy? That’s for an individual to decide, nevertheless after my visit, I considered this a fine restaurant where one can have a wonderful evening. 

Gastrologik **

Gastrologik
Artillerigatan 14, 114 51
Stockholm, Sweden
+46 8 662 30 60
Website

Write up was based on pre-pandemic visit.*

Popularized by the mainstream food media, “sustainability” has been echoing within the restaurant industry these past several years. The Worlds 50 Best Restaurant list has a yearly winner for The Sustainable Restaurant, and most recently the Michelin guide created a new designation called green clover. Meanwhile, Japan and Scandinavian countries has been practicing this long before it became a trend. In Stockholm, two-Michelin starred Gastrologik is a hundred percent sustainable. It only uses local products and  has upheld this philosophy since opening in 2016.

Owned by duo chefs Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr who worked at some of Europe’s top kitchens. Chef Jacob Holmström’s resume includes Astrance and Mathias Dahlgren, and Chef Anton Bjuhra, a pastry chef, had stints at different location of Pierre Gagnaire restaurants including the eponymous three Michelin starred in Paris. They opened Gastrologik in 2015 and was awarded a Michelin star after a year, then the second came in 2019. The restaurant has since ranked highly by the Nordic White Guide and has been widely considered one of the finest dining venue in Sweden. 

Located in the Stockholm Östermalm section of the city on a quiet residential street, Gastrologik’s non-descript façade is easy to miss. The restaurant’s small Swedish designed dining room is serene. The walls are awash in clean white, while the floors are adorned with oak wood. Windows are covered in thin curtains, allowing ample of natural light to enter. Tables are covered in thick white cloth with soft lighting from copper lamps dropping from the ceiling. There are modern Scandinavian Windsor chairs and comfortable leather caramel brown benches that ran along the wall. An open kitchen with a counter made from copper counter at the back where the food is prepared looks directly out to the dining room.

Gastrologik is only open for dinner and offered one tasting menu for the evening priced at 1800 SEK (at the time of my visit). Dinner started with Honokaka with fennel flowers, a Swedish flat bread served warm. That was followed immediately with a cup of Hay broth which has robust flavor that helps awaken the palate. Chicken liver, meringue and apple was an airy brittle meringue with layers of sweet, tart  and savory. This was extremely tasty. Then came a pair of tartlets, the King crab and carrots has an earthy sweetness coming from carrots that was perfectly paired with delicious crab meat. The other was the lumpfish roe with knackerbrod and Oviken cultured cream.  Tart crust made from rye was filled with a spoonful of lumpfish roe and sour cream, creating a terrific bite of salinity and sour richness.

On to the larger plates, the Smoke Artic char with best of the 2018 harvest was abowl of preserved vegetables such as carrots, radishes, and celery (just to name a few) with pieces of Artic char floating in a delightful translucent sauce. There were plenty of pickle sourness from the vegetables as well as some earthy bitterness from the radish that were perfectly mix with the smokiness of the Artic char. Raw Smogen shrimp with cucumber were thin cuts of cucumber enclosing raw shrimps from Smogen (a coastal town in Sweden known for their shrimp) bathed in coriander sauce. This was a fascinating  dish elevated by coriander sauce’s citric features.

Continuing on with  Alesund langoustine with algeas and fennel, meaty langoustine from Alesund Norway was tender and has a crusted charred outer layer that gave it a pleasant burnt taste. The langoustine is resting on a bed of cream and thin tortilla made from sea vegetations. I was instructed to roll the tortilla with everything in it and eat like a taco. Next, the Crispy pancake with grilled herb stems which looks more like a tart than a pancake. It has grilled herbs that exudes wonderful herbal aromas, while the onion cream with smoked butter it sat on gave the pancake an extra layer of flavor.

Sourdough bread made from Warbro kvarn spelt with hand churned butter from Kittelberget was served before the next course of Oyster from Adrian with nettles and wild chervil.  The Grilledoyster was drenched in vibrant green sauce made from nettles and wild chervil.  The sauce has a pleasant tanginessthat went extremely well with the brininess of the oyster. Served on the shell, was the Diver caught Icelandic bay scallop with eldel flower miso and mussel dashi. Herethesweetness of the scallop was sublimely complemented by the sharp mussel dashi. Tiny slices of dikon radish blanketing the scallop provided the texture.

The Sole with rockweed buds, fish eggs and yellow pea-shoots was a tender piece of fish blanketed in butter sauce. There were plenty of salinity on the sole that was nicely subdued by the  butter sauce. Another fish dish, Roefish with ramson and ox marrow came after. The scales were extra crispy and the fish itself was dainty and moist.  The smoke ox marrow yieleded a fantastic smoky and savory component on the plate. A lone red meat on this tasting menu was the Beetroot with wild roses and grilled lamb heart -lamb jus. Beetroot shaped like a rose contains an earthy bitterness that goes well with the delightful grilled lamb heart. Surprisingly the lamb heart did not have any traces of gameyness that are common in this type of meat. The flavor pack lamb jus added depth to the dish.

Rhubarb from Lilla Laback with lactic fermented plums was brought to the table prior to dessert. This icy refreshing palate cleanser has a touch of bitterness that helps removed all savory traits from the taste buds.  Dessert was composed of three dishes starting with the Spruce resin with crispy lichens and cloudberries, which has the right amount of sweetness and has beautiful floral elements to it as well as some tartness. The subtle bitter taste from the ice cream help bring this dish together. The Pancakes with Swedish punch and lingonberries was covered in caramel syrup topped off with a Swedish punch ice cream. The liquor in the ice cream helps curbed the sugary sweetness of the syrup while the lingonberries added a touch sourness.  Lastly apple, caramel and pollen pie was served as the final desert. The pie from pollen was filled with fermented apples giving it strong apple sweetness with an affable tang and balanced by a delicious blanket of cream. I was led back to the lounge for a post dinner drinks and more sweets were served like the lingonberry and black garlic fudge.

Gastrologik tasting was a phenomenal lengthy ordeal consisting of numerous seafood, heavy, and small plates. Cooking was creative and skillful as each course was thoughtfully crafted composed of different flavors that were both unique and interesting. And by using only local and regional ingredients that is in season, this allows the kitchen to get them at their maximum peak. Chef Holmström was at the restaurant during this visit and his presence was shown on every plate that was brought to the table. There was a 1200 SEK beverage pairing comprised of five glasses of red and white European wines with an exception of Herno Gin, a domestic spirit distilled in Sweden paired with main dish. The carefully curated alcoholic beverages wonderfully complemented every single dish that it was paired with.

Wine Pairing:

The staff at Gastrologik were hospitable and pleasant. Chef Holmström himself was at the front of restaurant greeting guest as they come in. The service was informal however the professionalism was still on displayed. Its well-trained staff were full of passion especially when explaining the ingredients and the concept that made up the dishes. The ambiance in the dining room is calm and relaxing. A guest visiting wearing jeans and untucked button-down shirt will not be out of place.

Like any other top restaurant in Scandinavia, especially the Michelin starred ones, Gastrologik is expensive. The meal with wine paring is in the upward of $350 range. However, if one can spare the cost, the cooking is a strong two stars and the uniqueness and the concept of the food at this restaurant makes it worth the price tag.   There are many similarities Gastrologik has with the three Michelin starred Frantzen. They were both owned by two chefs who trained at some of the most prestigious kitchen in Europe and both  ascended to two star level in short period of time.  Perhaps it will follow the same path to three-star stardom. But hopefully unlike Frantzen when they obtained the coveted third star, the duo of chef Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr will still be together

Frantzén ***

Frantzén
Klara Norra kyrkogata 26, 111 22
Stockholm, Sweden
+46 8 20 85 80
Website

Though its the most populous city of all the Nordic countries with close to a million people, Sweden’s capital Stockholm is often over shadowed by its more famous neighbor Copenhagen in Denmark as the regions culinary hot bed. However, Stockholm has terrific dining scenes that boast a collection of word class restaurants and Michelin starred places including the three starred  Frantzén. The restaurant holds the title as the very first in Sweden to received the highest award from Michelin guide, and one of only three in Scandinavia with this honor. In the list for Worlds 50 Best Restaurant 2019,  Frantzén occupies the twenty first place.

Frantzén is the namesake restaurant of  chef and owner Bjorn Frantzén who at one time was a professional footballer before hanging his cleats for the apron. Chef Frantzén worked at some of the finest kitchen in Europe like Chez Nico and La Tainte Claire in London, Arpege in Paris, and  Edsbacka krog in Sweden, the first two Michelin starred restaurant in the country. In 2008, he opened the restaurant as Frantzén /Lindberg with then partner and pastry chef Daniel Lindberg (whom he met at Arpege) in Gamla Stan “Old Town”of Stockholm. They received the first Michelin star in 2009 and the second followed a year after. When Chef Lindberg left in 2013, the restaurant was renamed to Frantzén and maintained the two star status until closing in 2016. Chef Frantzén re-opened the restaurant after a year of closure at a much larger space occupying an entire building in downtown Stockholm. Within five months of operation it was awarded the ultimate three Michelin stars.  Under his Frantzén Group, he also owns the two Michelin starred Zen in Singapore, Bobergs Matsal in Stockholm, and Frantzén Kitchen in Hong Kong. Other projects are also soon to open in Asia.

Obtaining a reservation at Frantzén can be daunting task especially with the time difference in the US. But having a flexible schedule, I was able to snag a lunch time reservation. The Frantzén experience started as soon as I rang the door bell.  Within seconds a friendly staff welcomed me and  was immediately ushered to the elevator after my reservation was confirmed. As I ascended, “Enter the Sand” was blaring through the speakers in the elevator.  When I reached the top floor there is lounge area with a distinctively Scandinavian designed complete with multi-colored plush chairs.  I made my way to my seat and was presented with a series of of small bites.

First to arrive was the White beer croustade-cold smoked pike-perch,wild trout roe,shiro kombu, Japanese mustard, followed by the Grape macaroon-whipped foie gras, condensed port wine, Danish rye and hibiscus. Then there was the  “raraka”, a Swedish delicacy made from potato pancake and salmon roe that was given a certain refinement. The potato pancake was shaped into a cylinder and filled with cream and salmon roe.  Finally, to finish was a tart of Celeriac – preserved truffle, argan oil, nutmeg and Swedish maple syrup. These small snacks were a great preview of what was to come.

I was asked by one of the staff to come by the counter in the back part of the lounge to be shown the fresh and luxurious ingredients that will be used for my meal. Afterwards I was escorted down one flight of stairs into a small kitchen used to prepare the small snacks then into dining room where the chef de cuisine introduce himself  before being seated at the counter. The dining room features an open kitchen behind the thick wooden “L” shape counter with high chairs that were surprisingly comfortable. Only fifteen guest  can be accommodated at the counter, but there are also a limited number of tables available for group dining.  

Frantzén offers one tasting menu at 3200 (at the time of my visit) SEK for both lunch and dinner and consisted of twelve or more courses. The first course of Crudo-scallop, salted tomato and plum water, fermented anchovy, horseradish and purple radish was beautifully presented on a crystal bowl. The mixture of radishes and their different types of spiciness gracefully complemented the subtle sweetness of the raw scallop. Also on this bowl was a medley of salinity, tart, and pickleness that brightly comes together.

Next was the Langoustine-crsipy rice (koshihikari) and clarified butter. The langoustine was deliciously juicy and had a perfect coating of crispiness created by the batter of crispy rice. Served on the side was the clarified butter cream dip with green onion powder which was absolutely flavorful on its own. However having it together with the langoustine was magical.

Chawanmushi-Frantzén prestige caviar, aged pork broth,  warm egg custard layered with pork broth then topped off with caviar had a delightful contrast of warm and cold.  An element of saltiness from the caviar elevated this custard to another level of decadence. The Chawanmushi was accompanied by a terrific crispy pork skin sprinkled with seaweed powder.   The meal continued with Splendid alfonsino, ripe yuzu kosho beurre blanc, uni “XO” and sea buckthorn oil. Splendid alfonsino, Kinmedai in Japanese or also known as golden eye snapper was extremely moist and delicately tasty. Its scales were masterfully fried for an extra crispy texture. Enhancing the fish was the watery sauce that contains butter with hints of spiciness and lime.

What followed  after was the Monkfish- fermented muhroom broth, pea miso, hazelnut oil and Jerusalem artichoke.  The dense monkfish meat was given a nice charred outer crust while the mushroom broth supplied a beautiful earthiness to it. An artichoke puree that fish sat on was a great addition. Onion,liquorice,almond… a cup of of onion soup covered with almond foam and cream of liquorice was made using only three ingredients. It contains a very distinct onion taste that harmoniously blend with the almonds and the sweetness of liquorice. For much needed texture crushed almonds were added. What a glorious dish that sound simple yet so complex.   

Then came the Frantzén signature dish which has been on the menu since 2008,  French toast “grand tradition 2008”, truffle, “vacche rosse” and vinegar aged on juniper wood. The French toast was assembled right in front of me. First I was shown a wooden box of black truffle then a piece of toast with cream of vacche rosse. The toast was then covered with generous shaving of truffles before finishing off with a few drops of vinegar. This luxurious French toast is full of sublime flavor that the palate thoroughly adored.

For the main course,  Spring lamb ‘’blanc de blanc”, wasabi yoghurt, toasted nori, split peas and mint. Scrumptious lamb was perfectly done, it was soft and enormously moist with a wonderful pink middle. Wasbai yogurt and its chilled herbal spiciness was a pleasant companion to the lamb. There are traces of mint scattered all over which brought a refreshing element on the plate.

Dessert was the Buttermilk- and sour rhubarb pumpkin seed praline,saffron sabayone, umeshu and wild strawberries. It was creamy and custardy. There were hints of  sourness coming from the rhubarb and fruity sweetness from the strawberries. Next was the Frozen Marshmallow,  a marshmallow ice cream that was simply refreshing filled with mint and citrus. Not as sweet as I thought it would be. I returned to lounge where I started to finish the meal with freshly baked Madellines (still warm when served) and a collections of sweets that consist of macaroons, chocolates and candies including a fascinating garlic candy that left a lasting impression.   

Impeccable is best describe the meal at Frantzén.  There was not a single plate on the tasting menu that failed to impress. Its kitchen exhibit superior cooking skills that was on display on every dish. The food was intricate, well thought out with heavy Japanese influence and plenty of light clean flavors.

Wine parings is available along with juice paring which is commonly offered in Scandinavia’s top restaurant. In this part of the continent, wine mark up can be excessive so I decided to pair this tasting menu with a mixture of alcoholic beverage and juices for a more economical value. This was a request that the restaurant gladly accommodate and I first learned can be done if asked when I visited Geranium in Copenhagen years ago. The alcoholic beverages were a collection of sake, European and US wines while the juices were creatively crafted from fruits and herbs. Both gracefully complemented each course.

Wine Pairing:

Frantzén evokes the well-known Scandinavian friendliness. The staff were young full of smile and welcoming. Though it is fine dining, the atmosphere at the restaurant was informal. But the service was still professional. In addition to the servers, the chefs that prepared the food behind the counter also serves them. They were both very informative and clearly explained each courses in great details.   

As a Nordic restaurant Frantzén defies the ethos of New Nordic cuisine which utilized foraging the bounty of the region. Instead they rather sourced the finest and luxurious ingredients that money can buy. It is indeed expensive to dine here which was expected for this type of restaurant in Scandinavia. But if one can afford it they are in for a great dining experience. 

There are many world class restaurants out there today but there are only a select few that really sit on the top of the echelon. And Frantzén is deservingly among them. This is a dining establishment that delivers and exceeded what is expected. Chef Frantzén has created a restaurant that is a worth a special trip and a must-visit when in Stockholm. Clearly Frantzén is one of the best in my book.

ABaC ***

ABaC
Av. del Tibidabo 1,
08022 Barcelona, Spain
+34 933 19 66 00
Website

These past few years has been very good for Spanish haute cuisine. From 2016 to 2018 there were four restaurants that received three Michelin stars. The city of Barcelona was the biggest winner, as it gained two in back-to-back guide including its first ever,  the restaurant Lasarte in 2016 and ABaC in 2017 (Aponiente in Cadiz also was elevated to three stars on the same year). It was merely a matter of time for ABaC, to receive the Michelin three star level since its reigns were handed over to Jordi Cruz. He had a knack for rising above expectations, impressing diners, and receiving rave review for his modern Catalan cuisine. 

At the tender age of 26, Chef Cruz became the youngest chef in Spain to earn a Michelin star at the Estany Clar in the outskirt of Barcelona. He started working at that restaurant in his early teens and became the head chef at 18. He then opened Angle, which also gained a Michelin star.  In 2010 he was recruited to replace Xavier Pellicer as head chef of the two starred  ABaC  restaurant. For six years he was able to maintain the rating until 2017 when it was finally awarded the ultimate third star. Presently, Chef Cruz is in partnership with the ABaC group and is in charge of all dining at its hotels.  These include the one star Angle,  Ten Tapas in Barcelona, and the recently opened Atempo in Girona.  

ABaC is the main dining venue of boutique hotels that bears the same name in the residential neighborhood located outside the city center of Barcelona. Guest are welcomed at their outdoor patio garden area for some pre-dinner drinks before being escorted in to the kitchen. They are then led to the dining room and on to their table. The music less dining rooms can seat up to 56 guest and has floor-to-ceiling glass walls that allow plenty of natural light to come in.  Uniformed oval and round tables covered in thick linen are spaced abundantly from each other, while film reel lamps hanging above the ceiling, provide soft lighting. The natural interior tones exude elegance.

The meal began in the kitchen where amuse bouche of Lime cactus, tequila and green leaves, Crunchy bread with spicy tomato sauce and basil and the Galician Salmon and cured egg yolk, trout eggs, soya butter and Nori textures were served in rapid succession. These bite-sized offering were all terrific starters.

For this visit, the “Grand ABaC” menu was the choice. To start a small cup of flavorful broth to excite the palate was presented with the first course of “Sardo/ina”, gurum style sardine tartar on toast with “escalibada”. Served on a crispy toast, the sardine tartare was extremely fresh and tasty. Next, was A reference to tuna marrow, miso soup with tuna belly and wasabi. A tasty fatty cut of raw marinated tuna belly that contains nice hints of wasabi spiciness. That was followed by the Mussels in carrot “escabeche” which has a good mixture of mussel flavor, sweet earthy notes from the carrots and also having a sharp salinity.

Amelie Esmerald oyster with fermented cabbage and smoke piparra was bursting with intense sourness. The oyster was imparted with pleasant acidity and pickled flavors. The Pine: toasted pine nuts ice cream, cure foie gras shaving and pine shoots was a terrific dish with plenty of refreshing features while also possessing a savory nuttiness.

Continuing on with the Tree trunk: boletus consommé, parmesan gnocchi with bread crusts, mushroom and truffle. This course consisted of two dishes that came in a tree trunk like ceramic container. The top is covered in paper thin slices of mushroom resting on a bed a of parmesan cheese.  When the top is removed, there is the dark brown savory broth filled with pungent truffle essence. Supplying a pleasing saltiness to the broth were the parmesan gnocchi. The Service of different parts of prawns with infused prawn rice was prepared table side. The prawn infused rice with cream sauce of peanuts and prawns was delightful. The boiled prawn’s head was bursting with flavor. Overall, this dish brilliantly highlighted the prawn’s distinct taste in a variety of ways.

The Parpatana stew and veal with hazelnuts like chickpeas, crispy kale and citrus was a fascinating mixture of veal and tuna that surprisingly produce robust flavors with an element of sweetness. And for texture, crispy dehydrated kale was added as a garnish. Next two courses consisted of duck as the main ingredient, first was the Duck rilletes with spicy blinis and crunchy nervares and tongue salad which was rich and delicious. The blandness of the merengue was the perfect vessel for the rillets, and the side of a duck salad makes a great partner on the plate. Then, there was the Grilled duck magret, pumpkin, spices and lavender. Grilled to perfection the duck was tender, scrumptious and flavorful. It also has a wonderful sauce from pumpkin and vanilla that added an extra depth of flavors.

For the main course Game meats with romesco and beetroot textures with hazel nut oil was served. The pigeon was wonderfully cooked, it had a beautiful outer layer of crispiness and the romesco sauce it sat on yields the right amount of saltiness that was needed. To balance the dish was sweet earthy bitterness of the beetroot puree.

Tea service was a bowl of foam made from earl grey tea and frozen chamomile with a side of frozen yogurt. This was refreshing and citrusy, and a great palate cleanser. While the main dessert was being prepared table side, the server presented the Violet egg with yogurt foam and crunchy biscuit made from blueberry. The server’s instruction was to break it with the spoon, the egg by itself has a tongue pleasing soothing fruitiness while the yogurt and biscuit together provided a certain sweetness to it.

Tea Service

The main dessert of Banana flan cake with carmelized textures was caramel in different forms. There was a caramel ice cream made from caramel syrup frozen in liquid nitrogen. The same syrup was also used to steam the banana cake beforehand giving it a sugary aroma, caramel puree for added sweetness, and caramel crisp for texture. This was a well-made sugary delight, especially when the ice cream is eaten with banana cake. The combination of warmth and cold and sugary sweetness was terrific.

This marathon that lasted for nearly four hours ended with a collection of small confections presented on heavy iron works. They were all wonderful, especially the lipstick from beetroot, roses and strawberry.

Chef Cruz was present at kitchen during this visit. His highly technical cooking techniques was on display in this meal. There was a strong focus on saltiness which can be tasted in almost every course. However, it did not over power everything else on the plate, instead it was able to mingle in harmony.  A wine pairing for 105 EUR of Spanish and French wines was opted with this meal. Nine glasses of wines were arranged to help subdue the salty aspect, and also provide balance on every course while also creating an uplifting after taste.

Sweets

Service at ABaC was formal and a bit stiff. It seems odd since most of the staff are young. However they were willing to engage on a small conversation from time to time. Dressed neatly in black suit and white shirt with black tie, the staff are well-verse and extremely capable. The different faces that came by the table explained each course clearly.

Wine Pairing:

As one of the youngest three star restaurant currently in the world, ABaC price point hasn’t caught up with the rest of its three Michelin compatriots yet. Dining here is accessible to many. The longer tasting menu with wine pairing was less than 300 EUR (the price increase is only a matter of time), cheaper than the other three star restaurant in Barcelona and in Spain.

Both the dining public and the media are in love with ABaC and its young chef. So much so that  prior to 2016 both side was in clear consensus that this was the best chance for Barcelona to finally have their very first three Michelin star restaurant. Unfortunately, that did not happened, it had to wait another year to finally join the ranks of only 130 or so worldwide. And after a visit, it is clear that this restaurant was deserving of the three star distinction. ABaC is no doubt, operating at a world class level.

Lasarte ***

Lasarte
Carrer de Mallorca, 259
08008 Barcelona, Spain
+34 934 45 32 42 
Website

For as long as the Michelin guide has been publishing in Spain, it has never found a restaurant in Barcelona deemed worthy of its highest honor. This was quiet puzzling especially for city like Barcelona, a place that has garnered more Michelin stars than anywhere else in Spain, while heralding a reputation as among the top gastronomic epicenter. Even its biggest rival, Madrid had Zalacain, (which had three stars from 1987-1995), and DiverXo since 2013. The tides finally turned for Barcelona in 2016, when the then two starred Lasarte was elevated to three, finally giving the Catalan capital its first ever.

Dining Room

The restaurant is owned by superstar Basque chef Martin Berasategui, and is named after the town in the Basque Country where his flagship restaurant resides. This culinary titan is the most decorated chef in the country. His collection of restaurants in Spain and in Latin America has garnered him 10 Michelin stars, including two with three stars, a rare accomplishment only attained by a very select few.  He opened Lasarte in 2006 and quickly won its first Michelin star a year later, then the second came in 2009, But it wasn’t until the arrival of Italian chef Paolo Casagrande as the chef de cuisine in 2012 that elevated this restaurant to three star level.  

Dining Room

Chef Casagrande is a veteran of Martin Berasategui’s restaurant group. He gained his first star working at Restaurante MB in Tenerifie. He then moved on to a luxury resort in Italy before returning to work again for Chef Berasategui at Lasarte. In addition to Lasarte, Chef Casagrande is also in charge of the one star Oria, and the Hallo Bar in the Monument Hotel. 

Situated on the ground floor of the ultra-luxe Monument Hotel in the heart of Barcelona’s shopping district in Paseig de Gracia, Lasarte’s dining room is spacious, bright with tall wavy ceilings. It has a clean modern décor with plenty of light oak finishing. The oversize tables are covered in extra thick white cloths matched with dark heavy padded chairs that were extremely comfortable and long ivory leather benches.  

Lasarte’s dining option are, the 235 EUR (at the time of my visit) tasting menu, a shorter “Lasarte Menu” and a la carte. The longer menu was the choice on this visit. An array of snacks started the meal, sea anemone with yuzu, Strip of toast with raw shrimp curry and beetroot with caviar and Jerusalem artichoke were both amazing. But the foie gras, eel, and caramelized green apple mille feuille with crème sauce which is also Lasarte signature dish was even better. It was a mouth full of savory pleasureNot to be outdone, was the cucumber and jalapeno mouse with mussels and its chilled spiciness

Afterwards, the cart with a variety of warm freshly baked bread was rolled in by the table. The bread was served with regular, mushroom, tomato, spinach and beet root butter along with a special olive oil made from one hundred percent Arbequina olives called Bago Baldios San Carlos.

Bread
Butter (regular, mushroom, tomato, spinach and beet root butter)

For the first course, the Slightly marinated warm oyster with iced watercress slush, parsnip and champagne was a pleasant contrast of warm and cold. The warm oyster was strong in flavor, and was nicely accompanied by the soothing pepperiness of the watercress slush. Next was the Sea urchin curd with sautéed scallops and fresh peas, sea cucumber and liquated “radiccio rosso”. Here the sweetness of scallops was paired successfully with the buttery urchin curd.  On the other hand, the foam from radiccio added a terrific bitterness. The Wagyu carpaccio with extract of terragon, smoked mullet and frozen cheese powder were cuts of scrumptious beef. There was hints of zest on the beef that wonderfully complemented the smokiness of the mullet. And for added texture frozen cheese was used for garnish.

Slightly Marinated Warm Oyster With Iced Watercress Slush, Parsnip And Champagne
Sea Urchin Curd With Sautéed Scallops And Fresh Peas, Sea Cucumber And Liquated “Radiccio Rosso”
Wagyu Carpaccio With Extract Of Terragon, Smoked Mullet And Frozen Cheese Powder

The Squid Tartare with liquid egg yolk, onion and kaffir consommé was composed of raw squid topped with warm egg yolk and sprinkled with amaranth toast. I find the yolks thick consistency, the subtleness of the raw squid, and the citrus elements of the kaffir consommé to be an interesting combination. That was followed by a signature Chef Berastegui dish, the Vegetable leaves and petals salad, herbs, sprout with lettuce cream and lobster. A colorful plate of lush vegetables and herbs with delectable lobster meat on top of clear gelatin made from tomato. This amazing dish is full of sublime flavors.

Squid Tartare with liquid egg yolk, onion and kaffir consommé
Vegetable leaves and petals salad, herbs, sprout with lettuce cream and lobster

 Red prawn on a seabed, fennel and coral emulsion was a giant prawn presented whole. The prawn was extremely tasty and the translucent watery broth with coral emulsion and sea weed cream that it sat on yields a profound features of the sea.  The Black truffle glazed Hare ravioli with sautéed artichokes and trompette mushroom were raviolis stuffed with delicious hare and covered in foam of black truffle. The foams pungent truffleness was elegantly fused with other earthy component on the plate.  Virrey fish with iodized sauce, king crab, raw tomatoes and saffron was cooked perfectly. It was tender and contained a wonderful amount of salinity. The basil and saffron cream gave the fish an extra layer of flavors while the different composition of tasty crab meat serves as an enticing supplement.

Red prawn on a seabed, fennel and coral emulsion
Black truffle glazed Hare ravioli with sautéed artichokes and trompette mushroom
Virrey fish with iodized sauce, king crab, raw tomatoes and saffron

For the main course marinated and charcoal, grilled venison, winter vegetables, persimmon and “biancoperla’ con cream was served. Succulent venison meat came with fresh salad with persimmon and blood orange and corn cream made from special type of corn from Italy. The mildness of the corn cream and the lightness of the salad was a great companion to the venison. 

Marinated and charcoal, grilled venison, winter vegetables, persimmon and “biancoperla’ con cream

Finally, on to sweet courses! Shiso and mint leaves sorbet, acid touches and milk crisp has a palatable richness and refreshing acidity. The pistachio sponge cake was particularly delightful. Almonds and salt praline, apricot and rum ice cream was the main dessert. The sugary sweetness from the salted praline with caramel was curbed by the alcohol from therum ice cream and also helps balance this dessert. As a bonus, petites fours of classic Catalonian sweets concluded the meal.  

 Shiso and mint leaves sorbet, acid touches and milk crisp
Almonds and salt praline, apricot and rum ice cream

This tasting menu was well put together. From the beginning to the end, one course after another it has myriad of flavors and textures that comes together. Each dish has complexity, balance and an abundance of colors. Their interpretation of Modern Spanish cuisine was less experimental than the kinds that is currently sweeping the dining world. The wine pairing for 135 EUR comprised of six glasses of local Spanish wines were consummately designed to complement the food.

Petites Fours

Joan Carles Ibáñez, the manager in charge of the dining room was on hand during this visit.  Under his supervision the dining room operated flawlessly offering impeccable hospitality to the guest. Although the service was uptight, and almost robotic, the staff were extremely knowledgeable and accommodating. They explained every course and answered any questions clearly. 

Wine Pairing:

Wine Pairing

A complete meal at Lasarte with the wine pairing will set you back 370 EUR per person which is still a tad below compared to other three star places in Paris and in the US. This is one of the priciest restaurant (if not the most) in Barcelona and in Spain. It caters to wealthy locals and tourist alike, but if taken to account the high level of cooking and professionalism of the personnel it was worth the amount paid.

Lasarte

The kitchen staff and the front of the house of a three Michelin star restaurant has a great deal of pressure to deliver perfection every day. However as the first restaurant in Barcelona to receive such accolade it has an added pressure that Chef Casagrande and his partner Joan Carles Ibáñez managed very well. They exceeded expectation by providing a stellar dining from start to finish.

Benu ***

Benu
22 Hawthorne St.
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 685-4860
Website

For more than a hundred years, the Michelin guide is hailed as the dining authority throughout Europe. In 2005, they expanded their reach and crossed the Atlantic to the United States in to New York City. A year later the San Francisco and the Bay Area edition was published bestowing its highest accolades to only one restaurant, Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Yountville. Unfortunately, San Francisco failed to impress the Michelin inspector. For eight long years it waited for a restaurant worthy of the third star, then finally in 2014 a pair of two stars was elevated to three.

Benu is one of the four restaurants with three stars currently in San Francisco. Its head chef and owner Korean born Corey Lee, is a product of Thomas Keller kitchen. He held the sous chef position at the French Laundry, and was one of the opening chef of Per Se in New York. His extensive resume included stints at Michelin starred establishment such as Guy Savoy in Paris, Pied a Terre, Pierre Koffman in London and Daniel in New York.  He opened Benu in 2010 in the Financial District and immediately received two Michelin stars, and eventually attaining the third star in 2014. Along with Saison, they were the first in San Francisco to accomplish this feat.

The restaurant is tucked in a historic building accessible through a courtyard. Its kitchen are visible through large windows from Hawthorne Street. Benu’s main dining room has tall ceilings, soft lighting, and uncovered dark oak tables paired with thick padded chairs that are tightly spaced from each other. The interior is minimalist with plenty of black, white and dark gray colors. There is no bar or lounge, only a waiting area by the entrance. And directly behind the hostess desk is a smaller dining area that looks down on main dining room.

There was only one dining option at Benu, a tasting menu priced at $295. The meal started with “small delicacies” beginning with a Chinese specialty called the thousand year old quail egg which has a delightful cured saltiness. While its sauce provided a terrific rich element to it. Next was the oyster, pork belly kimchi served in warm and cold temperature with a tongue pleasing hint of kimchi fieriness. The marinated mussel stuffed with glass noodles has a sweetness that managed to fittingly blend with the mussel deep sea brininess.

A tart of buttery monkfish liver with trout roe and radish was nextPerfectly complementing the monkfish liver were the bitterness from the thinly slice radishes.  That was followed by the prawn wrapped in jelly fish with comte sea weed, fresh off the fryer and served burning hot. The meaty prawn was tasty and the wrapping of jelly fish and seaweed added a beautiful crispy textureThen came the blood sausage with squid and sesame leaf. By adding squid and sesame leaf, not only gave the homely blood sausage a certain refinement but also created an interesting mixture of flavors that works together.

Grilled chicken wing stuffed with abalone liver was marinated in soy sauce for a wonderful salty sweetness and the abalone liver stuffing was a pure joy.  The shark fin pho with truffles and crab was not actually made with shark fin, instead the restaurant used Jinhua ham, crabs and other ingredients to replicate it,. The pho was prepared very well with a nice subtleness paired with sharp notes of truffle. Then came bread course, freshly baked sprouted grain bread served warm and accompanied with orange blossom honey infused ginseng butter.

First course, is the restaurant signature dish lobster coral xiao long bao with homemade soy sauce and vinegar. At first bite, the xiao long bao was oozing with tremendous amount of robust flavors, which is eventually followed by delectable filling of lobster roe. Dipping it in homemade soy sauce and vinegar adds a sublime mixture of salty and sour.

Next course came in threes and served all at once with a bowl of high quality white rice from Japan.  The caviar with hand-pressed sesame oil, sesame leaf and daikon has a superb subtle salinity, the sea urchin marinated in fermented crab sauce, thinly sliced kohlrabi was full of buttery goodness and the lightly-cured mackerel, fresh ginger, sake lees pickles has an excellent clean pickle taste and light spiciness to it.

The meal continued with the barbecued quail, Chinese artichoke with red cabbage and black truffle sauce, double bouillon of quail with mountain yam. Whole barbecued quail was shown to the table before the server brought it back to the kitchen and prepared. The quail meat was tender, juicy, and nicely flavored with truffle sauce (that also worked well with the mountain yam on the plate). Served on the side, was an amazing steamed truffle bun with a delightful truffle cream. Another addition was the savory quail stock with mountain yam.  In this course the kitchen resourcefully used the three main ingredients to create different dishes.

Beef rib braise in pear, daikon cooked in beef jus, scallion and chrysanthemum salad were the last of the savory plates. The scrumptious rib was superbly done with very good textures and flavors which was ascended by the pears sweetness.

The “Omija and olive oil” made from a Korean berry has a soothing bitterness that refreshes the palate. Dessert of Neufchatel cheesecake, dry-aged persimmon and cocoa nibs was a refined version of the cheese cake yet not as rich. Honeyed persimmon sauce with cocoa was cleverly use as a sweetener. Surprisingly, this was the only dessert in this particular evening. To end the meal were Shinko pear, sweet rice cake, a fantastic chilled rice tea and a toasted mint.

At Benu, the tasting menu of fourteen or so small courses were served in different paces. The “small delicacies” in the beginning were brought out in rapid succession while the other courses arrived in a slower manner. This was an impressive dinner that showcased highly technical cookery, and perfectly executed food with sophisticated Asian flavors. There were traditional Asian dishes that were brilliantly recreated and refined. Beverage pairing was designed by Master Sommelier, Yoon Ha (one of only two hundred fifty master sommelier in the world) priced at $210 and comprised of eight glasses of wines, beer and sake. It also include a pour of Blandy’s 1973 Verdelho retailed at $220. The pairing rightfully complements the different flavor elements of each dish.

Though the restaurant had a relaxing vibe, it still had the fine dining finesse and professionalism. Its young staff worked the dining room impeccably. They were well-trained, full of energy, and polite. Service was particularly attentive yet not overbearing. The chefs that also served the food were equally oriented and friendly as the servers.

Wine Pairing:

Dinner here is pricey and to many it’s a once in a life time experience. The complete meal with wine pairing plus tax and service charge makes Benu one of the most expensive restaurant in America. What justifies the high price tag is a dining experience that can be easily be the finest any one can ever have.

After leaving the confines of the French Laundry, Chef Lee became one of America’s top toque and flourished as a restaurateur. In addition to Benu, he also has the one Michelin star In Situ and the French bistro Monseiur Benjamin. All three restaurants were a success in their own rights. But his flagship Benu, is a special San Francisco dining destination and is among the preeminent restaurant currently in the country.