New American

Dirt Candy *

Dirt Candy
86 Allen Street
New York NY 10002
(212) 228-7732
Website

Finding vegetarian options in New York City these days is no longer the challenge it once was, thanks to the growing number of vegetarian and veggie-focused eateries that have cropped up in recent years. Among these, Dirt Candy stands out as the premier vegetarian restaurant in the city, having paved the way for vegetarian cuisine long before it gained widespread popularity.

Dirt Candy opened in 2008, in a tiny space in the East Village under the guidance of Chef and Owner Amanda Cohen. It quickly garnered attention, receiving a two-star review from the New York Times. In 2015, the restaurant moved to its current, more spacious location on Allen Street. In 2022, the Michelin Guide bestowed a well-deserved one-star rating upon Dirt Candy, making it the sole vegetarian restaurant in New York City to achieve such recognition.

The restaurant’s interior is both welcoming and expansive, featuring an open kitchen with a prominent white marble counter top stretching the length of the space. The dining area is adorned with dark oak tables paired with comfortable ivory padded chairs, floor-to-ceiling storefront glass windows that flood the room with natural light, concrete flooring, and exposed steel beams, creating an industrial-chic atmosphere. During our visit, we had the pleasure of being seated at the counter, which offers a front-row view of the chefs meticulously crafting our dishes, adding an interactive and immersive element to the dining experience.

Dirt Candy is only open for dinner and offers a tasting menu initially priced at $90 during our visit (currently at $105), which includes service. Our dinner began with the Corn – corn mousse, fresh corn, seaweed caviar and baby corn where corn took center stage. The kitchen masterfully showcased the versatility of corn, creating diverse textures and flavors on the plate. The second course, a complimentary offering from the kitchen, featured precisely cut green beans arranged in a circular shape atop creamy avocado. The grassy notes of the beans paired surprisingly well with the buttery avocado cream.

Tomato – tomato cake, yellow tomato jam, tomato leather, smoke feta spotlights the diverse sweetness and acidity found in various tomato varieties. The savory tomato cake was executed to perfection, and the smoked feta added a wonderful touch of smokiness, which balanced the overall acidity on the plate. It was undoubtedly the standout dish during the tasting. Following that, we were served the Carrot Raita, another complimentary course. The combination of carrot crisps with frozen yogurt, along with both cooked and pickled carrots, offered a refreshing experience. Each bite revealed subtle hints of sourness, a touch of spiciness, and an earthy sweetness

Our dinner continued with Summer Squash – zucchini soup dumpling, zucchini ribbons, squash blossoms, black vinegar. The zucchini dumpling was sublime, bursting with an exceptionally rich flavor. The plate offered subtle, sweet, and floral notes that contributed to its depth and complexity. Eggplant – sesame eggplant, chermoula ranch, black sesame tahini was the main course. This delectable dish featured eggplant sliced into a ring and expertly deep-fried in sesame batter, resulting in extra crispy texture. Accompanied by an eggplant salad and labneh, this combination added a bright and delightful dimension to the overall flavor profile.

For dessert the Cucumber – cucumber jam, white chocolate, dill pickle merengue, melon sorbet was served. This fascinating dessert seamlessly combined refreshing, creamy, and sugary elements. The addition of pickled meringue on top added a smores-like twist to the dish.

Dinner at Dirt Candy was a pure vegetal delight. The kitchen’s masterful culinary techniques were on full display, as they artfully used fresh, vibrant vegetables to craft a symphony of textures and flavor compositions. Despite the standard five-course tasting menu, we were pleasantly surprised by the addition of two extra courses, leaving us perfectly satisfied. The absence of meat and animal by-products went unnoticed, and we didn’t yearn for the typical accompaniments of bread, amuse-bouche, or pre-dessert. To elevate our dining experience, I opted for the $50 wine pairing, which featured five glasses of organic and natural wines expertly selected to complement each course.

Dirt Candy’s staff were not only personable but also exceptionally pleasant, providing a relaxed yet attentive service that matched the restaurant’s laid-back atmosphere. The eclectic selection of music in the dining room added to the overall experience, and sitting at the counter allowed us to engage and converse with the chefs, some of whom prepared and served our food themselves.

Wine Pairing:

Our first experience dining at a vegetarian tasting-menu-only restaurant exceeded our expectations. I found myself thoroughly enjoying Dirt Candy, from the exceptional food to the friendly staff. It came as no surprise that after our visit, the Michelin guide awarded Dirt Candy a well-deserved star.

elements

elements
66 Witherspoon St.
Princeton, NJ 08542
(609) 924-0078
Website

Seventy five miles south of the New York City is the wealthy town of Princeton New Jersey. Famous for its name sake Ivy League school, the town is also home to the restaurant, elements. Considered as the top dining venue in the Garden State, this restaurant has garnered national praise throughout the years. Its chef and owner Scott Anderson is a Jersey native and a self-taught chef. He worked at a number of New Jersey restaurant that includes the Ryland Inn before establishing elements in 2008.

Elements is located in heart of Princeton along the town’s main drag where all the main events take place. The restaurant is situated on the second floor of an industrial building that also houses its more casual sister restaurant, Mistral. The dining room has twenty eight dark oak wooden tables, ceilings with exposed wooden beams, and an open kitchen.

There are several dining option at elements, a Chef Tasting Menu and Grand Tasting Menu available any day of the week, a four-course on week nights, and a five course on the weekend. On this visit, the Chef Tasting Menu priced at $129 was the choice. It consists of eight or so courses with three small snacks to start.

Dinner began with quail eggs presented in a nest, it had a pleasant salty smokiness to it. Next was the local mushroom, which arrived at the table mimicking a forest ground complete with musk and tree trunk. The mushroom is gelatinous with subtle earthiness. And the final bite, crispy chicken with egg yolk and summer truffles was a terrific crispy fried chicken skin oozing in thick egg yolk with sharp truffle note.

For the first course, the Scallop-horseradish, soy calamansi were chunks of scallop served on the shell awash with vibrant acidic yellow sauce. The sauce acidity and the spiciness of horseradish were paired nicely with the scallop clean sweetness. Also served on the shell was the Surf Clam-celery root, shallot, cured pork. The clam was drenched in foam of celery root then topped off with fried onions and fresh shallots. The cured pork not only provided the much needed saltiness but also fat to balance the dish. An off the menu course of sashimi of surf clam was served immediately after. Raw clams are usually tasteless but here it was beautifully flavored with soy sauce and citrus.

Next was the Sable Fish- tomato, miso, eggplant, tomato sauce. Also known as cod, the sable fish was delicate and buttery. The tomato sauce created an extra layer of flavor that elevated the fish while the spinach crisp added a pleasant bitterness as well as crunchy texture. That was followed by Princeton Mushroom- taleggio, leeks, truffle which were locally grown mushrooms freshly picked on that day. This enjoyable dish contains plenty of diverse earthiness.

The meal continued on with land proteins, Pheasant- sauce albufera, mustrad, tarragon features the dark and white meat of the pheasant which were prepared accordingly. The mustard distinct presence on the plate gave the pheasant meat an extra dimension of taste. Venison-sassafras, celery root, huckleberry was a scrumptious flavorful piece of venison decorated with petals and herbs. The huckleberry syrup contains a berry sweetness that complemented the venison. There was a slight spiciness in the background that managed to blend in with other component on the plate. Ribeye-hickory smoked, mushroom, herbs was the main course. The ribeye was tender and extremely moist. It had a wonderful woody smokiness and a delightful touch of sweetness.

Presented in a whole green lime the Citrus-sorrel and buckwheat had a soothing creamy zest that cleans the palate of all the savory residue. Dessert was the Farmer’s Cheese- hazelnut,plum,caramel, frozen tangy cheese sweetened with sugary caramel and fruity plums. Helping to restrain the sweetness and add texture to this dessert were the hazelnut crumbles. Finally chocolate with sea salt marked the ending of the meal.

The Chef Tasting Menu at element was enjoyable. It was well put together and shows the kitchen’s skillful art of cooking. They utilize mainly local ingredients from New Jersey to produce dishes with mixture of flavors that works. The pairing of eight glasses of European wine cost an economical $89 were curated to complement each course.

Service was hard to complain about at elements. The staff was efficient and professional. At times the chefs from the kitchen including Chef Anderson himself brought out the food to the table. They were engaging to some degree and every individual staff were able to explain every course clearly.

Wine Pairing:

Having the richest GDP in any metro in the US, the supply of terrific restaurant are in abundance, but most of them are usually confined within the five boroughs of New York City. However for Princeton residents there’s no need to travel to have a fine meal. Elements offers and delivers a solid dining experience that are comparable of that of New York City. Being in a small town, it’s easy to stand out but there is no doubt that this restaurant can shine with the with the finest in the Northeast.

The Pass

The Pass
807 Taft St.
Houston,TX 77019
(713) 628-9020
Website

In the last seven years Houston has continue to experience a culinary renaissance. Currently there is a plethora of restaurants helmed by talented chefs who have worked at some of finest kitchen in the country and abroad. These chefs brought their creativity for Houstonians to experience and enjoy. One such restaurant is The Pass, located in the Fourth Ward.

The Pass was conceived by chefs Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel Gardner as part of a two-concept restaurant under one roof called The Pass & Provision. The Pass is the fine dining part while the latter offers a la carte menu in a more relax setting. Both chef Gallivan and Siegel Gardner come from a strong cooking pedigree. Their experience includes stints at the kitchen of The Modern, Aquavit, Aureole and other notable New York City restaurants. On the same year the restaurant was opened, it was propelled to national prominence after Bon Appetite named it in their annual best new restaurant list occupying the number 6 spot.

Access to The Pass is through a thick easy to open metallic door located behind the hostess table in the front. Its softly-lit dining room has three rows of tables covered in neatly pressed cloth with dark sway cushy seats and carpeted floors. At the other end of the room is an open kitchen visible to the guest.

A five course tasting menu with an option to add three additional course is the only choice for dinner priced at $65. There is also a vegetarian version of the tasting menu available for the same price.

Dinner started immediately with the first course of Scallop Carpaccio- Grapefruit/Tobiko/Goat’s Milk. In this plate, chunks of lush scallops were drenched in delightful cream sauce of goat’s milk. The grapefruit’s sour acidity was smartly added not only to raise the flavor but also to serve as a balancer. I added an extra course of Foie Gras Torchon-Candied Vegetable Panettone/Orange. The torchon was buttery and flavorsome. A zesty sweetness supplied by the orange jam went well with all those richness from the torchon, while the delicate panettone provided a terrific vessel.

Following the foie gras, was the Tuna Belly-Crispy Beef Tendon/Black Sesame Bearnaise, which comprised of, two pieces of beef tendon crisp with chopped raw tuna belly stacked on top of each other and dressed in thick berniase sauce. This was a complete dish that had terrific flavors. I noticed the tuna was particularly high in quality and especially fatty .Next was the vegetarian course, and it was just as equally well-done as the previous dish. The Smoked Potato caramelle -Chanterelle/ Parmesan, consisted of caramelle stuffed with wonderful smoked potato filling, garnished with thin slices of chanterelle mushroom and shaved parmesan. The puree that the caramelle sat on added a sharp earthy element to it.

For the main course the Duck-Leg Meat Currywurst/Crispy Potato/Radicchio Jam was served. Scrumptious cuts of duck meat were packed with flavors. Other components on this plate appropriately played its role such as the raddchio jam that when eaten with the duck, provides a pleasant bitterness. It was coupled by the tasty currywurst which offered an extra hearty serving of protein.

A pre dessert of frozen pina colada ball was refreshing to the palate. Dessert of poached pear- Marzipan/Dark Chocolate was rather heavy. It had a mixture of fruity and sugary sweetness that was kept at bay by the bitter taste of the dark chocolate mousse.

This was an unconventional meal that defies the norm of a tasting-menu-only restaurant. There was no bread offering, the amuse bouche in the beginning was missing and so is the petites four in the end. All that aside the cooking is inventive, and the food is thoughtfully crafted with wonderful mixture of different taste. Every component on the plate seams to coexist in harmony with each other.

In addition to the $55 wine pairing, the drink list which is shared by both The Pass and Provision is sizable. They also have an extensive whiskey collection.

As Houston celebratory restaurant, and with a dining room of well-heeled city dwellers, the staff at The Pass made sure that each guest was properly cared for. Our table of four was handled with a faultless service, and our servers were cordial and competent.

Dinner at The Pass is on the high side for Houston and less pricier than New York or The Bay Area. Adding the extra course and drinks, the total is close to a $120 per person, which is still reasonable considering the quality of food, service, and the dining experience each guest received.

When talking about a great gastronomic cities in the US, New York, San Francisco, and the Bay Area, Chicago is at the forefront of the conversation. However Houston Texas, with its terrific restaurant scene, is slowly becoming a contending culinary hub. The city still lacks the tasting menu places as there is only a handful of them. Helping to fill the void is The Pass. This restaurant is not only worth a visit when in the city, but it also raises Houston’s dining profile.

The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion

The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion
15 Elm St.
Mystic, CT 06355
(860) 245-4621
Website

Mystic, Connecticut is a charming small town in New England within driving distance from New York City. To be exact, the travel time is less than three hours. It makes an ideal weekend escape away from the hustles and bustle of New York City. This town is known for its seaport, the aquarium, and Mystic Pizza; a pizzeria popularized by a 1988 movie starring Julia Roberts. It also has a developing dining scene that was notice by the Boston Globe. The newspaper published an article last September on the growing restaurant community in Mystic and how it is slowly becoming a foodie town.

The Historic Downtown is where most of the restaurant are concentrated. The one that peaked my interest was The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion, located up the hill on a residential street, and a seven minute walk from the main drag. Spicer Mansion is a luxurious eight room hotel, and a Relais & Chateuax member property. The restaurant is the only one in Connecticut to received four stars from Forbes travel guide.

Built in 1853 as a summer home by renowned ship captain Elihu Spicer, the mansion had sadly fallen to despair until the Gates family purchased the property in 2003. It underwent an extensive renovation. Some of its old motif was kept while also giving the interior a fresh new look. All eight rooms were modernized, a dining room was added, the basement was turned in to a speakeasy bar called Room 9 Speakeasy, and the top floor was converted to a lounge.

The dining room is bright and refreshing. The interior is welcoming with colors of white and light grey pattern against the dark wooden fixtures for contrast. Rectangular tables covered in crispy white cloth on top of burlap sack are paired with comfortable benches. The walls are decorated with framed oil paintings, and an oversized Persian rug covers most of the wood flooring.

A set menu and a six course tasting menu priced at $130 are the dining options. On my visit, I had the tasting menu that began with a terrific amuse bouche of Wagyu tartare with truffle aioli. This bite-size snack was great way to make an impression.

The first course was the Pan Seared Bombster Scalllop-preserved cucumber, pickled mustard seeds, sunflower seeds. The top layer of the scallop was seared a bit too much, and was almost burned. What a pity, since I like the thought and the taste of the scallop and its deep sea sweetness with the different sour and pickled notes on the plate. The next course was the Pan Seared Foie Gras – quince, brioche crouton, honey comb, which overall, could have been better. The foie gras was over cooked and dry. A would-have-been great combination of richness from the foie gras, the honey comb sweetness and the quince citric zing if executed properly.

The first two dishes were a let-down so far but all was not lost. My meal was redeemed by the remaining courses starting with the Squash & Wild Mushroom Risotto-grana padano, shaved squash, autumn leaf smoked walnuts. The creamy risotto had a nice sweetness to it. The mushroom imparted an enticing earthiness while the walnuts added crunch to the texture; all the while, also rendering a touch of nuttiness with a smoky element. This was the best dish of the tasting.

For the main course I was served the Roasted Venison-Blueberry Compote, sweet potato hash, baby fennel pistachio. The plating could have used a little refinement, but as far as the dish itself, it was excellent. Lean venison was sous vide then roasted, creating a wonderful tenderness and flavor. In addition, there was also some delightful ground venison meat mingling with other ingredients. Giving the dish a nice touch of sweet berry tartness were drops of blueberry compote.

The cheese course Grand Formage-dried fruits, house mustard, pickles and bread. I trusted the recommendation of my server who chose two different types of cheese locally sourced from New England which surprisingly were very good.

Prior to dessert, I was presented with a cup of hot apple cider from Mystic’s very own Clyde’s Apple Cider Mill.It was fitting for the cold evening. Dessert was the Butternut Squash Ice Cream-gingersnap, brown butter, roasted pears, maple. The ice cream distinctively tasted like a butternut squash, and the roasted pear was a pleasant fruity cohort. Serving as sweetener were dehydrated caramel and crumbs of ginger snap cookies which is also being used for textures. This well-rounded dessert dish has a cold fruity, and sugary features that works together. For the finale a gelatin with a subtle sweetness was served.

The disappointment was hard to hide since I really wanted to like this meal as a whole. The food had an interesting concept and different flavor elements that complements one another. But it simply lacks the execution which is such a shame, since the kitchen is capable in doing so, shown with the risotto, venison and the dessert. The presentation also needed a little bit of refinement. On the other hand, the $95 wine pairing consisting of six glasses did its job.

I find the staff at Spicer Mansion to be genuinely welcoming and eager to please. The same can be said to those who work in the restaurant. The dining room has trained servers that are well informed and their undivided attention is focus on the diner. Service is a definite strong point of this property.

When Spicer Mansion opened, OHM Hotel Management Inc. managed the operation and assigned one of their own in the kitchen. The cooking at the restaurant was received with positive review. Media outlets like the luxury lifestyle magazine Robb Report, did a write up calling The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion as the answer to French Laundry in the east coast. However, when the owner ended the contract with the management company,there has been multiple chef changes, which more than likely led to the inconsistency of the kitchen.

Wine Pairing:

During my stay at the Spicer Mansion, I saw the owner Brian Gates quite a few times lingering in the property. At dinner he came by my table while I was in between courses and chatted a bit. He mentioned why he purchased the mansion, his future plans and why he decided to take over the day-to-day operation. I realized that he is a hands on owner who wants to truly provide a complete experience for every guest. As much as I was disappointed with my dinner, I see the potential of the restaurant. If I am ever around the area, I would certainly visit The Restaurant at Spicer Mansion again.

Elske *

Elske
1350 W Randolph St,
Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 733-1314
Website

Last year, Chicago’s West Loop welcomed the Danish-inspired restaurant, Elske. Located along W Randolph Street, this was a great addition to a neighborhood with a bustling dining scene. As one of the most awaited opening in 2016, the restaurant did not disappoint. It was voted number two in Bon Appetite Best New Restaurant in 2017, a three star review from Chicago Tribune, and most recent accolade, a Michelin star. The owners are husband and wife David and Anna Posey who both worked at the Michelin starred Blackbird in Chicago. Prior to opening Elske, David held the position of chef de cuisine at Blackbird while Anna was a pastry chef at Publican.

The restaurant’s expansive space seats about fifty guests, and has large store front windows that looks out to the street. The dining room has uncovered dark wooden communal tables, walls of exposed brick, and smooth concrete for floors. At the front is the bar area located next to the open kitchen. On a good day, an outdoor space with a fire place doubles up as an additional dining space.

Elske has an a la carte menu that is inexpensive. There are no plates over $24. In addition, an affordable $85 tasting menu is quite appealing to my pocket, which is what perpetuated my visit.

The tasting menu started with Tea of lightly smoked fruits and vegetables, which was a cup of tea infused with subtle smoked vegetables and fruits flavors. This was followed by Broccoli and amaranth fritter with spicy date jams. A single crunchy bite of grainy fritter boasts a dynamic duo of both sweet and spicy. Duck liver tart with salted ramp and buckwheat was next. The decadent tart teases nice hints of brininess with a touch of bitterness.

The meal continued with an interesting dish called, Chilled zucchini and buttermilk cream with braised pistachio, blueberries and elder, which were thinly sliced chilled zucchinis blanketed in thick cream. The cream has a mixture of sour, sweet, and nuttiness that worked superbly with the zucchini’s cold element. Roasted sturgeon with fried artichoke, caviar and lovage came afterwards. The sturgeon was roasted impeccably, it was tender and moist. The lovage sauce with caviar provided the saltiness, elevating the fish, while the fried artichoke makes fine accompaniment.

Grilled Vegas strip steak with braised dandelion greens, smoked beef and roasted marrow was the main course. The steak was scrumptious, packed with flavors, and has delightful presence of smokiness. Adding richness to the dish, was the roasted bone marrow consommé.

Frozen fennel jelly with mint followed the main dish. This concoction was a tongue soothing cube of jelly mint that helps rinse the palate off savory remnants. For dessert, Roasted peach sorbet, frozen yogurt, rose and bitter almonds was served. The peach sorbet went perfectly well with the yogurt, creating a pleasant blend of cold fruitiness and sourness. The garnished of dehydrated rose petal added texture.

Needless to say, this was quite the enjoyable meal. The dishes were creative and refined using cooking techniques that are evident of experienced chefs. The flavor combination was unique but made sense as it rightfully complemented each other. Though the restaurant served “New American” cuisine with Danish influence, I find that the flavor profile leans more towards Nordic. The wine pairing was also decently priced at $45, and comprised of five glasses. It was mostly European wines with the exception of the red wine paired with the steak, which came from California.

Wine Pairing:

After dining at the three Michelin starred Grace the previous night, I wanted something informal and relaxing. Elske was the right place. I had an early dinner on this particular visit and was seated at the bar. The bartender that evening was genuinely friendly and conversant. When I started my meal there were a few tables occupied but as the night progressed, the dining room and bar filled up fairly quick. Despite the sudden influx of patrons at this time, the service did not falter.

There is a growing number of restaurants opening up in the past few years that offers quality food in strip down settings. From Paris to New York, this type of dining trend has been well received by the masses. In Chicago, such restaurant came in the form of Elske where I was treated with fine dining fare without the prentious atmosphere.

Grace ***

Grace
652 W Randolph St
Chicago IL 60661
(312) 234-9494
Website

*The restaurant abruptly closed on December 19, 2017.

Along with New York City and San Francisco, Chicago is hailed as one of dining capital in the US. The city has a total of 25 Michelin starred restaurants sprinkled throughout. At the epicenter is the neighborhood of West Loop. With an abundance of great places to eat and drink, the neighborhood’s culinary excellence is anchored by the three Michelin starred, Grace.

Grace was opened in 2012 by co-owners head chef Curtis Duffy and GM/sommelier Michael Muser. At that time, it was by far the most ambitious and most anticipated restaurant openings in Chicago, as well as in the country. The restaurant was immediately awarded two Michelin stars after a few month of opening. A year later in 2013, Grace was elevated to three stars, a status it has maintained ever since. The restaurant has since received other accolades in such a short span, adding merits such as the four-star review from the Chicago-Tribune, Forbes Five Stars and AAA Five Diamonds.

Chef Curtis Duffy can easily boast a robust kitchen experience working in some of Chicago’s top restaurants. He once worked with the late Charlie Trotter at his eponymous restaurant before moving on to Trio, cooking alongside Chicago’s most decorated chef, Grant Achatz. In 2004, he was recruited by Chef Achatz as the opening sous-chef of the critically acclaimed Alinea. After a few years there, he took on the head chef position at Avenues in the Peninsula Hotel where he also met his future business partner Michael Muser. At Avenues, Chef Duffy cooking reportoire was awarded two Michelin stars.

The restaurant resides along the strip of W. Randolph Street where some of Chicago’s best dining venues are also located. Grace unassuming façade of rusted steel with glass doors opens directly to the hostess table. A short hallway leads to a muted and windowless dining room with tones of neutral colors. It is dimly lit by hanging decanter lights and the floors are cover in thick carpets, which helps dampen the noise. In the dining room are identical oversize round table draped in grey cloth, cream leather chairs, handsome blond wood panel walls, and a glass enclosed kitchen. The columns in the middle are nicely incorporated with its modern interior.

Fauna:

There were only two dining option at Grace, the vegetable centric “Flora,” and the meat and seafood “Fauna,” which were both priced at $235. I had the latter which began with an array of small bites on a plate made from beeswax. Consisting of Iberian ham, beets, chickpea and yuzu gummy, these small bites were a very good start to this meal.

For the first course, GUINEA HEN-ramp, radish, chive blossom was presented in a yogurt glass cup sealed in foil, and when opened it releases an enticing smoky aroma. I was instructed to lick the other side of the lid which was spread with a zesty coconut cream. The glass was stuffed with guinea hen pate infused with a wonderful smokiness in company of radish, ramps, scallions and coconut cream.

ALASKAN KING CRAB-sudachi, cucumber, lemon mint was next. Served on a martini tumbler glass, it has a crystalized sugar in the middle separating the ingredients. At the bottom of the glass are pieces of delicious crab meat in cumber juice. Breaking the crystalized sugar mixes all the ingredients, creating a fantastic balance of flavors. There was also a distinct peppery note that blended perfectly.

Third course was the BAY SCALLOPS-white poppy, romaine, nasturtium. Meaty scallops were ultra-fresh and sweet. Rich milky sauce from white poppy seeds elevated the scallops by providing an extra layer of flavor. That was followed by an extra dish from the Flora menu, CARROT-green strawberry, hazelnut, amaranth. This vegetarian plate has so much going on. It has an earthiness coming from the carrot, some nuttiness from the hazel nuts, citric features from the orange sauce, and a refreshing acidity from green strawberries. Yet, they all managed to come together in harmony.

The meal proceeded with PORK- gnudi, porcini, spinach. The nicely braised pork was topped with crispy red cabbage and spinach. A piece of gnudi on the side was a pleasant accompaniment to this dish. Afterward the SQUAB-beet, fig, endive was served. The flavorful squab meat was extra tender, moist with a beautiful pink middle. And, complementing it was a vibrant thick beets puree with a honey like sweetness.

For the main course, MIYAZAKI BEEF – grains, hon shimeji, kaffir lime was a pure luxury. Miyazaki beef is one the finest on the planet and it was cooked impeccably here. Each bite melts eloquently in the mouth like a cotton candy. There are hints of nutty and citrus element in the background that paired accordingly with the beef.

Prior to dessert, the BLOOD ORANGE- vanilla, tangerine lace was the palate cleanser. The chilled blood orange yields a soothing citrus tang with a nice touch of vanilla cream. Dessert was HUCKLEBERRY- honey, fenugreek, basil, huckleberry ice cream has a nice sweet sourness while other components provide an interesting peppery and minty combination. This was refreshing and fruity at the same time. Next was the CASHEW- cocoa, crème fraîche, Hoja Santa, which was a plate of chocolaty pleasure. The chocolate came in mouse, jelly and cake form and the hoja santa was featured as a sorbet, cream drops and leaves. The assortments of rich chocolate sweetness, herbal essence and savory tartness were put wonderfully together. Lastly a green sphere served on wooden rocker pops with chilled honey dew liquid inside the mouth. It was a refreshing finish to this meal.

The “Fauna” was a terrific tasting menu that showcased the restaurant’s ability and the technical cooking prowess. Using quality and luxurious ingredients sourced both globally and locally, the kitchen creates food that is complex and light. They were able to successfully marry different elements on the plate to create a unique myriad of taste. Every dish was artfully conceived, full of colors and pleasing to look at. Additionally, the $125 wine pairing comprise of nine glasses of predominantly European wines were perfectly designed to add an enriching after taste with every course.

There is a hushed atmosphere in dining room. It is so quiet that you can hear the pin drop, and even the staff spoke in low clear tone. The service was formal throughout my meal, but managed to loosen up from time to time. They handled each table flawlessly and were significantly in tune with one another. Their attention to detail and awareness was incomparable. Providing an exceptional dining experience to each guest was expertly performed by the staff.

Wine Pairing:

Chicago dining has gotten better throughout the years, the city was voted as Bon Appetite best restaurant city in 2016. At the top spot are the three Michelin starred Alinea and Grace. Though Alinea gets majority of the praise, Grace on the other hand has been making a name for itself since opening in 2013. My visit at this restaurant was outstanding in every aspect. The food and the service were equally magnificent, a true tale sign of what greatness represents.

The documentary “For Grace” chronicled the process of opening the restaurant and the challenges that Chef Duffy and Mr. Muser had to face. In the opening scene, Chef Duffy talks about his goal to make Grace as one of best the restaurant in the country. Along with Mr. Muser they had achieved that goal in such a short time. Grace rightfully sits among the great restaurants in the US.

Eleven Madison Park ***

Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Ave.
New York NY 10010
(212) 889-0905
Official Site

New York City has the most diverse food scene on the planet; here you can find every imaginable type of cuisine, from high end to casual dining. The city’s dining landscape is an image of the melting pot of its residents. Unlike other gastronomic power houses like San Sebastian in Spain, Paris and Tokyo, where their best restaurant serves local cuisine, New York City has never had a dining establishment that it can call its own. For years the top restaurant were French, Italian or Japanese but that all changed in 2012 when Eleven Madison Park transferred ownership from Danny Meyer to its Executive Chef Daniel Humm and General Manager Will Guidara. They transformed it into a restaurant synonymous to the Big Apple.

With three Michelin stars and four stars from the New York Times, Eleven Madison Park was already beaming with accolades but being on the top echelon was not enough for the duo. They had to push the envelope. They made drastic changes that were very risky, including replacing the set menus with one tasting menu that would showcase the culinary history and local ingredients of New York City and the surrounding area. The price was also increased to $225 per person making it one of the expensive in the city. They also decreased the number of seats from 100 plus to 80 in order to provide a more personal dining experience for the guest. As a result of these changes, Eleven Madison Park is recognized globally as one of the best restaurant in the world.

Located in the lobby of the Metropolitan Life North Building, the Art Deco interior of Eleven Madison Park is reminiscence of the roaring twenties. The stunning dining room and its high ceilings are supported by mighty pillars. Large windows with Madison Square Park as a backdrop allow ample natural light to enter. Wooden panels with the restaurants four leaf pattern runs throughout the space and the antique terrazzo floorings adds to the beauty of the dining room. The wooden seats with black leather to go with spacious tables are made to provide each guest with maximum comfort and relaxation for this monumental meal. There is no menu and up to the end when the printed menu is presented each plate is a surprise.

Before this epic feast begins, each guest is required to open a small envelope on the table containing a ticket and must choose an item that will eventually show up during the course of the meal. On this particular day I chose maple.

The tasting started with a small bag of smoked paprika seasoned almonds made to mimic the ones that are being sold on every street corner along 5th avenue, followed by a bite size black and white cookie that was founded here in the city. Not a bad opening act. The first official course was served thereafter.

Tasting Menu:

Scallops marinated with apple, pine and water crust, served in the shell. This was an excellent intro in preparing the palate. Then the sturgeon course was served in two parts; the first was the smoked sturgeon sabayon with chive oil served in a perfectly cut egg shell. It was a lovely combination of creaminess and smokiness. The second part was pieces of sturgeon smoked in a dome glass with a side of thinly sliced toast, caviar with cream cheese, home-made pickles and a plate of quail egg with bagel crumble. This was paired with maple soda. Everything about this dish is terrific!

Bread was snuck in between courses that came along with two types of butter, one being made with duck fat that will be used with the duck dish later on according to the server. The bread was freshly made and served at room temperature and its texture was similar to a croissant.

At the beginning of the meal I was presented with a choice of seared or cured foie gras. Choosing the first option, I was served a wonderfully seared foie gras with sun chokes, hazelnut, and solera vinegar. The buttery foie gras was well complimented by the sourness of the vinegar.

The next course was the Waldorf Salad made with fresh apples, celery, cranberries and walnuts prepared table side by one of the kitchen staff. While the apples are peeled, sliced and put together an opened book is placed on the table detailing the New York salads history. Served in a wooden bowl that when finished the top was removed, an element of surprise of granola with yogurt lay hidden underneath. At first this did not make sense, but after a few tastes this was actually a palate cleanser.

The lobster course was also served in two parts. The first is a bowl of ice with a lobster claw stuffed with lobster salad, razor clams with kale puree and sliced of pears that is both appetizing and light. The other was elegantly poached with razor clams hidden beneath a piece of kale, slice of pear and urchin foam.

Celery root with black truffle sauce and celery puree was the next course. The ball of celery root doused with truffle sauce had an earthy taste and the puree was delicious. A simple dish but very flavorful.

For the main course, I had the famous Duck that was presented whole before being brought back to the kitchen and sliced. I was served a duck broth packed with flavor to sip on as I waited. Tasty duck meat was carved handsomely; the skin was crispy and layered with herbs and spices while the inside was delicate and soft.

The restaurant had some fun with the cheese course and served a picnic basket inspired by Madison Square Park. It contained cured meat, dried fruit, figs, cheese from Murray’s Cheese store and a bottle of beer from upstate, brewed specifically for the restaurant.

The desserts were highlighted by another dish invented in New York City, Baked Alaska. It was flambéed table side before going back to the kitchen for plating. Prior to serving there was the pre-dessert course of sweet potato curd with espresso meringue and orange sorbet. Finally the Baked Alaska with rum, raisin and cranberries, portioned accordingly. It was both rich and sweet.

Just when I thought the tasting was done, a chocolate pretzel covered with sea salt was placed in front of me along with some brandy, the bottle left on the table. To end the meal a sweet version of the black and white cookie made with cinnamon was served. Before leaving a parting gift of a mason jar filled with granola along with the menu for that day was given.

Eleven Madison Park has an extensive global wine list as well as local wines. And believe it or not a $40 bottle is available. There’s also a page dedicated to wines of New York. Since I wanted the New York experience I went for a bottle of Pinot Noir from Finger Lakes that I enjoyed with my meal.

After four hours of dining, I had one of the best meals (if not the best) I’ve ever had in my life. I was also educated in “New York” cuisine, as a lot of the food that we eat every day was founded here and in the surrounding areas.

I returned to Eleven Madison Park a few weeks after with two other companions for a modest dinner at the bar. The bar has a limited menu that offers select dishes from the tasting menu and is available a la carte. Once again I had the poached lobster with razor clam and sea urchin that tasted better than before. I also had the perfectly pan seared striped bass with watercress and the earthy freekah risotto. Each dish was cooked with excellent consistency. The attention to detail, with an innovative and playfulness, was cooking perfection.

I also had the pleasure of taking a kitchen tour where I was able to go behind the scenes and witness the brigades in their whites moving in synchronized motion, seeing what makes Eleven Madison Park runs.

The restaurant prides itself not only with their food but also with their hospitality. They redefined the meaning of service, going extra mile by Googling every guest to find out more about them in order to provide the best dining experience. The staff is young, professional and without the stuffiness. It’s not uptight as most fine dining, but rather more of a personal approach with a fun atmosphere. There were different faces that came by my table and all of them very welcoming and warm.

New York City and the surrounding area have a rich culinary history that is untapped and Eleven Madison Park is leading the way in showcasing “New York’ cuisine to both locals and travelling gastronome. As a lifelong New Yorker, I am proud to have a restaurant of this stature that we can call our own.

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Dressler

Dressler
149 Broadway
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 384-6343
Official Site

*This restaurant is now closed.

Recently Brooklyn’s culinary landscape has rivaled that of Manhattan. Its residents no longer need to cross the bridge to enjoy a wonderful dinner. The borough is now home to NY Times rated and Michelin starred restaurants.

I rarely come to Brooklyn to eat or drink and I can basically count on one hand the places that I’ve visited. Living in Manhattan has given me the snobbery attitude that there’s no restaurant better than my home borough, but I do admit I was wrong.

The neighborhood of Williamsburg is a testament that Brooklyn is now a dining destination; there are restaurants on almost every block right next to each other. The south side of the neighborhood, away from the bustling Bedford Avenue is where you will find Dressler, a Michelin starred restaurant for the past six years and one of only six starred establishments in the borough that 2013 guide has awarded. The restaurant sits across from the famous Peter Luger Steak House (another Michelin starred restaurant) along Broadway and a few blocks away from the J and M Marcy station making it accessible to people travelling in from Manhattan.

There were so many good things I’ve heard about Dressler that when it was time to venture to Brooklyn it was my first choice. Unfortunately, with the departure of Executive Chef Polo Dobkin in September of last year there was some hesitation on my part to visit, especially with an average price of $35 an entrée. I never had the chance to dine here when Chef Dobkin was still manning the kitchen, but after multiple visits I was convinced, he left Dressler in good hands.

The New American menu has very good entrees that justify its lofty prices; like the Pan Seared Stripe Bass with broccoli and sun choke cream. The fish was cooked properly and the nice crispy skin was complimented by the sun choke cream. The Long Island Duck Breast was another succulent dish as was the Roasted Chicken with smoked onions and parsnip puree. The chicken was well seasoned and roasted to perfection while the puree added additional moisture to its texture.

Dressler has several starters to choose from, the two that I enjoyed the most are the Grilled Octopus made with chickpea and roasted tomatoes and the Chicken Liver Mousse served with onion jam, pickled ramps, and bread. Chicken liver is not for everyone, but in here this dish was spot on. The octopus on the other hand has a nice texture and the roasted tomatoes added another dimension that tantalized the taste buds. Although these starter dishes average $12 to $19 it’s a norm for New York City.

There are about six selections in their dessert menu that were pretty stellar, like the Maple Panna Cotta. This was a wonderful dessert to end a great meal; the sweetness was low key not at all overpowering to the palate. There’s also the Warm Gingerbread and its potent rum sauce that is balanced out with the pumpkin ice cream making this yet another delightful dessert.

Not only does Dressler possess a formidable wine list but also a host of creative cocktails. One being the Grace Jones, a cocktail made with rum and allspice dram which adds a hint of spiciness. There’s also the light and refreshing Ingenue, cucumber vodka, Prosecco, and St. Germaine for sweetness. This drink goes down smoothly, which can be dangerous if more than a few are drunk as the night goes on.

The restaurant is handsomely decorated with artisanal metal works that are displayed throughout its interior. In the front is a long galvanized iron bar top with high chairs that are made of steel. It is crafted beautifully and seems most likely to weigh a ton. There are exquisite chandeliers that create a dimly lit dining room. Large mirrors hang on the brick walls, which are painted in red, while black wood tables and chairs complete the space. Giving the impression of what an 18th century establishment might have looked like.

Dressler can be loud on busy nights, especially the front where locals and out of borough guest wait for a table. The music is not too overly loud that you need to shout for yourself to be heard but it isn’t soft either. In one of my visits Talib Kweli was playing in the restaurants background adding to the BK atmosphere.

The website states that Dressler is a “fine dining in Williamsburg” but it’s more of a casual restaurant. The service and hospitality exceeded my expectations. They provided impeccable service that can definitely be found in fine dining establishments. The servers were engaging and knowledgeable, very accommodating to make sure their guests have an excellent dining experience.

Twenty years ago crossing the bridge to dine in Brooklyn was unheard of. The borough has evolved; gentrification has sprouted restaurants that are very good and worth a trip. All though Manhattan might still be the gastronomy capital of New York City, Brooklyn has closed the gap in recent years and Dressler is in the forefront of that evolution.

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Telepan

Telepan
72 W 69th St
New York, NY 10023
212 580 4300
Official Website

*This restaurant is now closed

Manhattan’s Upper West Side is uncharted territory for me; nevertheless it is home to many great dining establishments. Some of the best chefs in New York City have made the UWS their home. Just like Bill Telepan, the owner and Executive Chef of Telepan, a staple of the neighborhood. Bill Telepan is a well known chef in the NYC dining scene and also is an advocate of healthy eating in the NYC public school system. He actively works to eliminate processed food from city schools’ cafeterias. His activism and acclaim as a chef fueled my enthusiasm to dine at Telepan.

Situated in a converted brownstone on 69th Street between Columbus Avenue and Central Park West, on any given day the restaurant is packed with pre and post theater goers as well as locals. Don’t let looks fools you, when I first walked in I thought the place was small but it’s not. And if you are looking for trendy and chic decor this ain’t it. Even Frank Bruni, the former NY Times food critic calls the interior “outdated “in his review. The restaurant’s maze-like layout is sectioned off containing multiple rooms with fireplaces. A wooden semi-circular bar in the front area designed with exposed red brick and split by a support beam in the middle is perfect for some drinks while waiting for members of your party to arrive. The mood is serene with curtain covered windows, perfectly subdued lighting and soft almost non existence music. The grassy green colored walls are adorned with paintings of produce or farming scenes which hang alongside numerous mirrors. The dining tables are covered in white cloth accompanied by chocolate upholstered seats or booth seats which complement the elegant yet casual atmosphere.

Telepan is strong supporter of local farmers and therefore provides seasonal organic ingredients on the menu, no exceptions. Their farm to table concept is apparent in the freshness of the ingredients in each dish. At dinner time the restaurant’s New American cuisine is offered in a four course tasting, guests can choose from among the dishes on the menu at $69 ($125 with wine parings.) I’ve dined here a couple of times, on my first visit I selected the tasting menu and the sommelier paired the wines flawlessly. Lunch on the other hand consists of two courses at $22 or three courses at $28. Though the restaurant serves a la carte for lunch and dinner the tasting menu is the way to go to actually get a good feel for the taste of the cuisine.

The dishes that I’ve had for the starters were the Calamari Pasta with arugula pesto and baby tomatoes; and the House-Smoked Brook Trout corn blini and green onion sour cream. The Calamari Pasta was very delicious, it was impeccably cooked while the Brook Trout was my favorite dish – the sour cream made the dish very savory. As for the entrées I’ve tried the Codfish with roasted corn golden nugget potatoes, cippolini onions and balsamic; and the Roasted Chicken with wild mushrooms, crispy gnocchi and wild spinach. Both dishes were impressive, the chicken was soft and juicy and had a sour taste that was interesting and tasty. I also tried the Lobster Bolognese spaghetti, light herbs and shallot-garlic-tomato broth; and the Mezzaluna veal meatballs, mushroom and parmigiano broth. The lobster dish was wonderful with the broth as a perfect complement, and as for the veal, although I’m not a beef eater the taste of that dish was enough to win me over. Finally for desert, the Crispy Creme anise hyssop, strawberries and sauce had a fruity strawberry taste was that was magnificent. The Peach Granita Parfait almonds, verbena cream and prosecco chilled on ice had a mixture of peach and almond with the prosecco that combined deliciously. And I was in heaven with Telepan’s S’More marshmallow – chocolate brownie and graham cracker ice cream – chocolate, marshmallow and ice cream is like a holy trinity of sweetness do, I need to say more?

The Upper West Side has a gem in Telepan. The well trained staff provides first rate service. If one is looking to eat great food in an elegant yet casual atmosphere this is the place for you.

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be elaborate. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a treatment prescribed to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you must ask your dispenser about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In supplement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile malfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other humanity even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.

Riverpark: A Tom Colicchio Restaurant

Last year celebrity Chef Tom Colicchio along with Executive Chef Sisha Ortuzar opened Riverpark in the Kips Bay section of Manhattan. It is the latest addition to Tom and Sisha’s ever growing restaurant empire. The restaurant is located on 29th Street by the FDR Drive and tucked inside the Alexandria Center for Life Science building. When I first came to Riverpark, I asked myself, “Why on earth would anyone open a restaurant in the middle of nowhere.” But after countless visits I grew to enjoy this place and its location – removed from New York’s usual congestion and people traffic.

The entrance is also not so obvious, guests must pass through an office building where a security officer will escort diners to a small door next to a wall inscribed “Riverpark.” The place is spacious and full of lights. There are lighted beams on the ceiling that run just about the entire length of whole space, a signature design feature of Tom Colicchio’s restaurants. The décor is contemporary with sleek blue copper colored chairs and several leather booth seats also of the same color. Riverpark is divided into two sections – guests can choose between the spacious front dining room with bright lights and several long benches, ideal for large groups; or the back room which is a more subtle and intimate setting. The backroom has floor to ceiling windows (providing great views overlooking the FDR Drive and Long Island City) dim lights and a bar. An outdoor heated patio is also an option for guests year round.

Executive Chef Sisha Ortuzar’s New American cuisine uses seasonal ingredients that serve to satisfy the palette. Very recently Riverpark opened their own farm in the building to grow their own produce. I had the chance to have lunch and dinner here and both times I completely enjoyed the food. For starters I’ve had the Salt Cod Droquette, made with lemon puree and parsley; Ramp and Ricotta Ravioli, made with rhubarb and thyme; and the Roasted Provolone, made with oregano, garlic and pickled chilies. All were very delicious; the jalapenos really went well with the Roasted Provolone while the Salt Cod Droquette had a saltiness that is not overpowering. For Entrées I’ve had the Roasted Artic Char, made with potato puree, brown butter and parsley; Warm Prawn Asparagus Salad, made with ramps and spring onions; Roasted Branzino, fingerling potatoes, pickled red onions, capers and salsa verde; and a delicious chicken dish that is no longer in their menu. The Artic Char, the restaurant’s signature dish was amazing and the Wild Prawns Asparagus Salad was very tasty and fresh. The desserts were pretty solid as well. I’ve had the Beignets, vanilla custard and strawberry preserves; Ice Cream and Sorbet, a selection of various flavors of ice cream and sorbet; and the Cinnamon Panna Cotta, rosemary ice cream and caramelized pumpkin seed.

The restaurant service is top notch. The servers, the bus boys and the hostess all provided consistent service each time. The crowd consists mainly of mature diners who live in the area and business people who have some dealings in the building.

Riverpark is great for lunch and dinner whether for business or just to satisfy hunger. You can never go wrong with the $28 three course lunch. Also come and enjoy a drink or two with friends on their outdoor patio during warm weather or even cool weather (the patio is heated.) With a great setting and wonderful views, Riverpark is one of my recommended ‘go to’ places for drinks and dining in the Kips Bay area. It’s a bit out of the way but in the end you will be glad you made the trip.

Riverpark
450 E 29th St
New York, NY 10016
212 729 9790
Official Site

For individuals who are ordering medicines online, there are several significant factors that must be considered. Internet is an ideal practice to get medicaments. Several medicaments are antifungal medicines. There are at least some medicaments for each sicknesses. Levitra is a treatment prescribed to treat few ailments. What do you have to consider about cialis vs viagra? When you buy remedies like Levitra you should ask your druggist about viagra vs cialis. Many drugstores describe it as viagra or cialis. Many probably sure the forcefulness of Levitra is well documented. In supplement, there are some of explanations and pharmacists are ordinarily able to pinpoint your problem through biological tests. Ordinarily the treatment options may include erectile disfunction medicaments or counseling. Your generic is for you only. Never give your drugs to other folk even if their condition appears to be the same as yours.