Creative

Gastrologik **

Gastrologik
Artillerigatan 14, 114 51
Stockholm, Sweden
+46 8 662 30 60
Website

Write up was based on pre-pandemic visit.*

Popularized by the mainstream food media, “sustainability” has been echoing within the restaurant industry these past several years. The Worlds 50 Best Restaurant list has a yearly winner for The Sustainable Restaurant, and most recently the Michelin guide created a new designation called green clover. Meanwhile, Japan and Scandinavian countries has been practicing this long before it became a trend. In Stockholm, two-Michelin starred Gastrologik is a hundred percent sustainable. It only uses local products and has upheld this philosophy since opening in 2016.

Owned by duo chefs Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr who worked at some of Europe’s top kitchens. Chef Jacob Holmström’s resume includes Astrance and Mathias Dahlgren, and Chef Anton Bjuhra, a pastry chef, had stints at different location of Pierre Gagnaire restaurants including the eponymous three Michelin starred in Paris. They opened Gastrologik in 2015 and was awarded a Michelin star after a year, then the second came in 2019. The restaurant has since ranked highly by the Nordic White Guide and has been widely considered one of the finest dining venue in Sweden.

Located in the Stockholm Östermalm section of the city on a quiet residential street, Gastrologik’s non-descript façade is easy to miss. The restaurant’s small Swedish designed dining room is serene. The walls are awash in clean white, while the floors are adorned with oak wood. Windows are covered in thin curtains, allowing ample of natural light to enter. Tables are covered in thick white cloth with soft lighting from copper lamps dropping from the ceiling. There are modern Scandinavian Windsor chairs and comfortable leather caramel brown benches that ran along the wall. An open kitchen with a counter made from copper counter at the back where the food is prepared looks directly out to the dining room.

Gastrologik is only open for dinner and offered one tasting menu for the evening priced at 1800 SEK (at the time of my visit). Dinner started with Honokaka with fennel flowers, a Swedish flat bread served warm. That was followed immediately with a cup of Hay broth which has robust flavor that helps awaken the palate. Chicken liver, meringue and apple was an airy brittle meringue with layers of sweet, tart and savory. This was extremely tasty. Then came a pair of tartlets, the King crab and carrots has an earthy sweetness coming from carrots that was perfectly paired with delicious crab meat. The other was the lumpfish roe with knackerbrod and Oviken cultured cream. Tart crust made from rye was filled with a spoonful of lumpfish roe and sour cream, creating a terrific bite of salinity and sour richness.

On to the larger plates, the Smoke Artic char with best of the 2018 harvest was abowl of preserved vegetables such as carrots, radishes, and celery (just to name a few) with pieces of Artic char floating in a delightful translucent sauce. There were plenty of pickle sourness from the vegetables as well as some earthy bitterness from the radish that were perfectly mix with the smokiness of the Artic char. Raw Smogen shrimp with cucumber were thin cuts of cucumber enclosing raw shrimps from Smogen (a coastal town in Sweden known for their shrimp) bathed in coriander sauce. This was a fascinating dish elevated by coriander sauce’s citric features.

Continuing on with Alesund langoustine with algeas and fennel, meaty langoustine from Alesund Norway was tender and has a crusted charred outer layer that gave it a pleasant burnt taste. The langoustine is resting on a bed of cream and thin tortilla made from sea vegetations. I was instructed to roll the tortilla with everything in it and eat like a taco. Next, the Crispy pancake with grilled herb stems which looks more like a tart than a pancake. It has grilled herbs that exudes wonderful herbal aromas, while the onion cream with smoked butter it sat on gave the pancake an extra layer of flavor.

Sourdough bread made from Warbro kvarn spelt with hand churned butter from Kittelberget was served before the next course of Oyster from Adrian with nettles and wild chervil. The Grilledoyster was drenched in vibrant green sauce made from nettles and wild chervil. The sauce has a pleasant tanginessthat went extremely well with the brininess of the oyster. Served on the shell, was the Diver caught Icelandic bay scallop with eldel flower miso and mussel dashi. Herethesweetness of the scallop was sublimely complemented by the sharp mussel dashi. Tiny slices of dikon radish blanketing the scallop provided the texture.

The Sole with rockweed buds, fish eggs and yellow pea-shoots was a tender piece of fish blanketed in butter sauce. There were plenty of salinity on the sole that was nicely subdued by the butter sauce. Another fish dish, Roefish with ramson and ox marrow came after. The scales were extra crispy and the fish itself was dainty and moist. The smoke ox marrow yieleded a fantastic smoky and savory component on the plate. A lone red meat on this tasting menu was the Beetroot with wild roses and grilled lamb heart -lamb jus. Beetroot shaped like a rose contains an earthy bitterness that goes well with the delightful grilled lamb heart. Surprisingly the lamb heart did not have any traces of gameyness that are common in this type of meat. The flavor pack lamb jus added depth to the dish.

Rhubarb from Lilla Laback with lactic fermented plums was brought to the table prior to dessert. This icy refreshing palate cleanser has a touch of bitterness that helps removed all savory traits from the taste buds. Dessert was composed of three dishes starting with the Spruce resin with crispy lichens and cloudberries, which has the right amount of sweetness and has beautiful floral elements to it as well as some tartness. The subtle bitter taste from the ice cream help bring this dish together. The Pancakes with Swedish punch and lingonberries was covered in caramel syrup topped off with a Swedish punch ice cream. The liquor in the ice cream helps curbed the sugary sweetness of the syrup while the lingonberries added a touch sourness. Lastly apple, caramel and pollen pie was served as the final desert. The pie from pollen was filled with fermented apples giving it strong apple sweetness with an affable tang and balanced by a delicious blanket of cream. I was led back to the lounge for a post dinner drinks and more sweets were served like the lingonberry and black garlic fudge.

Gastrologik tasting was a phenomenal lengthy ordeal consisting of numerous seafood, heavy, and small plates. Cooking was creative and skillful as each course was thoughtfully crafted composed of different flavors that were both unique and interesting. And by using only local and regional ingredients that is in season, this allows the kitchen to get them at their maximum peak. Chef Holmström was at the restaurant during this visit and his presence was shown on every plate that was brought to the table. There was a 1200 SEK beverage pairing comprised of five glasses of red and white European wines with an exception of Herno Gin, a domestic spirit distilled in Sweden paired with main dish. The carefully curated alcoholic beverages wonderfully complemented every single dish that it was paired with.

Wine Pairing:

The staff at Gastrologik were hospitable and pleasant. Chef Holmström himself was at the front of restaurant greeting guest as they come in. The service was informal however the professionalism was still on displayed. Its well-trained staff were full of passion especially when explaining the ingredients and the concept that made up the dishes. The ambiance in the dining room is calm and relaxing. A guest visiting wearing jeans and untucked button-down shirt will not be out of place.

Like any other top restaurant in Scandinavia, especially the Michelin starred ones, Gastrologik is expensive. The meal with wine paring is in the upward of $350 range. However, if one can spare the cost, the cooking is a strong two stars and the uniqueness and the concept of the food at this restaurant makes it worth the price tag. There are many similarities Gastrologik has with the three Michelin starred Frantzen. They were both owned by two chefs who trained at some of the most prestigious kitchen in Europe and both ascended to two star level in short period of time. Perhaps it will follow the same path to three-star stardom. But hopefully unlike Frantzen when they obtained the coveted third star, the duo of chef Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr will still be together

elements

elements
66 Witherspoon St.
Princeton, NJ 08542
(609) 924-0078
Website

Seventy five miles south of the New York City is the wealthy town of Princeton New Jersey. Famous for its name sake Ivy League school, the town is also home to the restaurant, elements. Considered as the top dining venue in the Garden State, this restaurant has garnered national praise throughout the years. Its chef and owner Scott Anderson is a Jersey native and a self-taught chef. He worked at a number of New Jersey restaurant that includes the Ryland Inn before establishing elements in 2008.

Elements is located in heart of Princeton along the town’s main drag where all the main events take place. The restaurant is situated on the second floor of an industrial building that also houses its more casual sister restaurant, Mistral. The dining room has twenty eight dark oak wooden tables, ceilings with exposed wooden beams, and an open kitchen.

There are several dining option at elements, a Chef Tasting Menu and Grand Tasting Menu available any day of the week, a four-course on week nights, and a five course on the weekend. On this visit, the Chef Tasting Menu priced at $129 was the choice. It consists of eight or so courses with three small snacks to start.

Dinner began with quail eggs presented in a nest, it had a pleasant salty smokiness to it. Next was the local mushroom, which arrived at the table mimicking a forest ground complete with musk and tree trunk. The mushroom is gelatinous with subtle earthiness. And the final bite, crispy chicken with egg yolk and summer truffles was a terrific crispy fried chicken skin oozing in thick egg yolk with sharp truffle note.

For the first course, the Scallop-horseradish, soy calamansi were chunks of scallop served on the shell awash with vibrant acidic yellow sauce. The sauce acidity and the spiciness of horseradish were paired nicely with the scallop clean sweetness. Also served on the shell was the Surf Clam-celery root, shallot, cured pork. The clam was drenched in foam of celery root then topped off with fried onions and fresh shallots. The cured pork not only provided the much needed saltiness but also fat to balance the dish. An off the menu course of sashimi of surf clam was served immediately after. Raw clams are usually tasteless but here it was beautifully flavored with soy sauce and citrus.

Next was the Sable Fish- tomato, miso, eggplant, tomato sauce. Also known as cod, the sable fish was delicate and buttery. The tomato sauce created an extra layer of flavor that elevated the fish while the spinach crisp added a pleasant bitterness as well as crunchy texture. That was followed by Princeton Mushroom- taleggio, leeks, truffle which were locally grown mushrooms freshly picked on that day. This enjoyable dish contains plenty of diverse earthiness.

The meal continued on with land proteins, Pheasant- sauce albufera, mustrad, tarragon features the dark and white meat of the pheasant which were prepared accordingly. The mustard distinct presence on the plate gave the pheasant meat an extra dimension of taste. Venison-sassafras, celery root, huckleberry was a scrumptious flavorful piece of venison decorated with petals and herbs. The huckleberry syrup contains a berry sweetness that complemented the venison. There was a slight spiciness in the background that managed to blend in with other component on the plate. Ribeye-hickory smoked, mushroom, herbs was the main course. The ribeye was tender and extremely moist. It had a wonderful woody smokiness and a delightful touch of sweetness.

Presented in a whole green lime the Citrus-sorrel and buckwheat had a soothing creamy zest that cleans the palate of all the savory residue. Dessert was the Farmer’s Cheese- hazelnut,plum,caramel, frozen tangy cheese sweetened with sugary caramel and fruity plums. Helping to restrain the sweetness and add texture to this dessert were the hazelnut crumbles. Finally chocolate with sea salt marked the ending of the meal.

The Chef Tasting Menu at element was enjoyable. It was well put together and shows the kitchen’s skillful art of cooking. They utilize mainly local ingredients from New Jersey to produce dishes with mixture of flavors that works. The pairing of eight glasses of European wine cost an economical $89 were curated to complement each course.

Service was hard to complain about at elements. The staff was efficient and professional. At times the chefs from the kitchen including Chef Anderson himself brought out the food to the table. They were engaging to some degree and every individual staff were able to explain every course clearly.

Wine Pairing:

Having the richest GDP in any metro in the US, the supply of terrific restaurant are in abundance, but most of them are usually confined within the five boroughs of New York City. However for Princeton residents there’s no need to travel to have a fine meal. Elements offers and delivers a solid dining experience that are comparable of that of New York City. Being in a small town, it’s easy to stand out but there is no doubt that this restaurant can shine with the with the finest in the Northeast.

ABaC ***

ABaC
Av. del Tibidabo 1,
08022 Barcelona, Spain
+34 933 19 66 00
Website

These past few years has been very good for Spanish haute cuisine. From 2016 to 2018 there were four restaurants that received three Michelin stars. The city of Barcelona was the biggest winner, as it gained two in back-to-back guide including its first ever, the restaurant Lasarte in 2016 and ABaC in 2017 (Aponiente in Cadiz also was elevated to three stars on the same year). It was merely a matter of time for ABaC, to receive the Michelin three star level since its reigns were handed over to Jordi Cruz. He had a knack for rising above expectations, impressing diners, and receiving rave review for his modern Catalan cuisine.

At the tender age of 26, Chef Cruz became the youngest chef in Spain to earn a Michelin star at the Estany Clar in the outskirt of Barcelona. He started working at that restaurant in his early teens and became the head chef at 18. He then opened Angle, which also gained a Michelin star. In 2010 he was recruited to replace Xavier Pellicer as head chef of the two starred ABaC restaurant. For six years he was able to maintain the rating until 2017 when it was finally awarded the ultimate third star. Presently, Chef Cruz is in partnership with the ABaC group and is in charge of all dining at its hotels. These include the one star Angle,  Ten Tapas in Barcelona, and the recently opened Atempo in Girona.

ABaC is the main dining venue of boutique hotels that bears the same name in the residential neighborhood located outside the city center of Barcelona. Guest are welcomed at their outdoor patio garden area for some pre-dinner drinks before being escorted in to the kitchen. They are then led to the dining room and on to their table. The music less dining rooms can seat up to 56 guest and has floor-to-ceiling glass walls that allow plenty of natural light to come in. Uniformed oval and round tables covered in thick linen are spaced abundantly from each other, while film reel lamps hanging above the ceiling, provide soft lighting. The natural interior tones exude elegance.

The meal began in the kitchen where amuse bouche of Lime cactus, tequila and green leaves, Crunchy bread with spicy tomato sauce and basil and the Galician Salmon and cured egg yolk, trout eggs, soya butter and Nori textures were served in rapid succession. These bite-sized offering were all terrific starters.

For this visit, the “Grand ABaC” menu was the choice. To start a small cup of flavorful broth to excite the palate was presented with the first course of “Sardo/ina”, gurum style sardine tartar on toast with “escalibada”. Served on a crispy toast, the sardine tartare was extremely fresh and tasty. Next, was A reference to tuna marrow, miso soup with tuna belly and wasabi. A tasty fatty cut of raw marinated tuna belly that contains nice hints of wasabi spiciness. That was followed by the Mussels in carrot “escabeche” which has a good mixture of mussel flavor, sweet earthy notes from the carrots and also having a sharp salinity.

Amelie Esmerald oyster with fermented cabbage and smoke piparra was bursting with intense sourness. The oyster was imparted with pleasant acidity and pickled flavors. The Pine: toasted pine nuts ice cream, cure foie gras shaving and pine shoots was a terrific dish with plenty of refreshing features while also possessing a savory nuttiness.

Continuing on with the Tree trunk: boletus consommé, parmesan gnocchi with bread crusts, mushroom and truffle. This course consisted of two dishes that came in a tree trunk like ceramic container. The top is covered in paper thin slices of mushroom resting on a bed a of parmesan cheese. When the top is removed, there is the dark brown savory broth filled with pungent truffle essence. Supplying a pleasing saltiness to the broth were the parmesan gnocchi. The Service of different parts of prawns with infused prawn rice was prepared table side. The prawn infused rice with cream sauce of peanuts and prawns was delightful. The boiled prawn’s head was bursting with flavor. Overall, this dish brilliantly highlighted the prawn’s distinct taste in a variety of ways.

The Parpatana stew and veal with hazelnuts like chickpeas, crispy kale and citrus was a fascinating mixture of veal and tuna that surprisingly produce robust flavors with an element of sweetness. And for texture, crispy dehydrated kale was added as a garnish. Next two courses consisted of duck as the main ingredient, first was the Duck rilletes with spicy blinis and crunchy nervares and tongue salad which was rich and delicious. The blandness of the merengue was the perfect vessel for the rillets, and the side of a duck salad makes a great partner on the plate. Then, there was the Grilled duck magret, pumpkin, spices and lavender. Grilled to perfection the duck was tender, scrumptious and flavorful. It also has a wonderful sauce from pumpkin and vanilla that added an extra depth of flavors.

For the main course Game meats with romesco and beetroot textures with hazel nut oil was served. The pigeon was wonderfully cooked, it had a beautiful outer layer of crispiness and the romesco sauce it sat on yields the right amount of saltiness that was needed. To balance the dish was sweet earthy bitterness of the beetroot puree.

Tea service was a bowl of foam made from earl grey tea and frozen chamomile with a side of frozen yogurt. This was refreshing and citrusy, and a great palate cleanser. While the main dessert was being prepared table side, the server presented the Violet egg with yogurt foam and crunchy biscuit made from blueberry. The server’s instruction was to break it with the spoon, the egg by itself has a tongue pleasing soothing fruitiness while the yogurt and biscuit together provided a certain sweetness to it.

The main dessert of Banana flan cake with carmelized textures was caramel in different forms. There was a caramel ice cream made from caramel syrup frozen in liquid nitrogen. The same syrup was also used to steam the banana cake beforehand giving it a sugary aroma, caramel puree for added sweetness, and caramel crisp for texture. This was a well-made sugary delight, especially when the ice cream is eaten with banana cake. The combination of warmth and cold and sugary sweetness was terrific.

This marathon that lasted for nearly four hours ended with a collection of small confections presented on heavy iron works. They were all wonderful, especially the lipstick from beetroot, roses and strawberry.

Chef Cruz was present at kitchen during this visit. His highly technical cooking techniques was on display in this meal. There was a strong focus on saltiness which can be tasted in almost every course. However, it did not over power everything else on the plate, instead it was able to mingle in harmony. A wine pairing for 105 EUR of Spanish and French wines was opted with this meal. Nine glasses of wines were arranged to help subdue the salty aspect, and also provide balance on every course while also creating an uplifting after taste.

Service at ABaC was formal and a bit stiff. It seems odd since most of the staff are young. However they were willing to engage on a small conversation from time to time. Dressed neatly in black suit and white shirt with black tie, the staff are well-verse and extremely capable. The different faces that came by the table explained each course clearly.

Wine Pairing:

As one of the youngest three star restaurant currently in the world, ABaC price point hasn’t caught up with the rest of its three Michelin compatriots yet. Dining here is accessible to many. The longer tasting menu with wine pairing was less than 300 EUR (the price increase is only a matter of time), cheaper than the other three star restaurant in Barcelona and in Spain.

Both the dining public and the media are in love with ABaC and its young chef. So much so that prior to 2016 both side was in clear consensus that this was the best chance for Barcelona to finally have their very first three Michelin star restaurant. Unfortunately, that did not happened, it had to wait another year to finally join the ranks of only 130 or so worldwide. And after a visit, it is clear that this restaurant was deserving of the three star distinction. ABaC is no doubt, operating at a world class level.

Lasarte ***

Lasarte
Carrer de Mallorca, 259
08008 Barcelona, Spain
+34 934 45 32 42
Website

For as long as the Michelin guide has been publishing in Spain, it has never found a restaurant in Barcelona deemed worthy of its highest honor. This was quiet puzzling especially for city like Barcelona, a place that has garnered more Michelin stars than anywhere else in Spain, while heralding a reputation as among the top gastronomic epicenter. Even its biggest rival, Madrid had Zalacain, (which had three stars from 1987-1995), and DiverXo since 2013. The tides finally turned for Barcelona in 2016, when the then two starred Lasarte was elevated to three, finally giving the Catalan capital its first ever.

The restaurant is owned by superstar Basque chef Martin Berasategui, and is named after the town in the Basque Country where his flagship restaurant resides. This culinary titan is the most decorated chef in the country. His collection of restaurants in Spain and in Latin America has garnered him 10 Michelin stars, including two with three stars, a rare accomplishment only attained by a very select few.  He opened Lasarte in 2006 and quickly won its first Michelin star a year later, then the second came in 2009, But it wasn’t until the arrival of Italian chef Paolo Casagrande as the chef de cuisine in 2012 that elevated this restaurant to three star level.

Chef Casagrande is a veteran of Martin Berasategui’s restaurant group. He gained his first star working at Restaurante MB in Tenerifie. He then moved on to a luxury resort in Italy before returning to work again for Chef Berasategui at Lasarte. In addition to Lasarte, Chef Casagrande is also in charge of the one star Oria, and the Hallo Bar in the Monument Hotel.

Situated on the ground floor of the ultra-luxe Monument Hotel in the heart of Barcelona’s shopping district in Paseig de Gracia, Lasarte’s dining room is spacious, bright with tall wavy ceilings. It has a clean modern décor with plenty of light oak finishing. The oversize tables are covered in extra thick white cloths matched with dark heavy padded chairs that were extremely comfortable and long ivory leather benches. 

Lasarte’s dining option are, the 235 EUR (at the time of my visit) tasting menu, a shorter “Lasarte Menu” and a la carte. The longer menu was the choice on this visit. An array of snacks started the meal, sea anemone with yuzu, Strip of toast with raw shrimp curry and beetroot with caviar and Jerusalem artichoke were both amazing. But the foie gras, eel, and caramelized green apple mille feuille with crème sauce which is also Lasarte signature dish was even better. It was a mouth full of savory pleasure. Not to be outdone, was the cucumber and jalapeno mouse with mussels and its chilled spiciness.

Afterwards, the cart with a variety of warm freshly baked bread was rolled in by the table. The bread was served with regular, mushroom, tomato, spinach and beet root butter along with a special olive oil made from one hundred percent Arbequina olives called Bago Baldios San Carlos.

Butter (regular, mushroom, tomato, spinach and beet root butter)

For the first course, the Slightly marinated warm oyster with iced watercress slush, parsnip and champagne was a pleasant contrast of warm and cold. The warm oyster was strong in flavor, and was nicely accompanied by the soothing pepperiness of the watercress slush. Next was the Sea urchin curd with sautéed scallops and fresh peas, sea cucumber and liquated “radiccio rosso”. Here the sweetness of scallops was paired successfully with the buttery urchin curd. On the other hand, the foam from radiccio added a terrific bitterness. The Wagyu carpaccio with extract of terragon, smoked mullet and frozen cheese powder were cuts of scrumptious beef. There was hints of zest on the beef that wonderfully complemented the smokiness of the mullet. And for added texture frozen cheese was used for garnish.

Sea Urchin Curd With Sautéed Scallops And Fresh Peas, Sea Cucumber And Liquated “Radiccio Rosso”

Wagyu Carpaccio With Extract Of Terragon, Smoked Mullet And Frozen Cheese Powder

The Squid Tartare with liquid egg yolk, onion and kaffir consommé was composed of raw squid topped with warm egg yolk and sprinkled with amaranth toast. I find the yolks thick consistency, the subtleness of the raw squid, and the citrus elements of the kaffir consommé to be an interesting combination. That was followed by a signature Chef Berastegui dish, the Vegetable leaves and petals salad, herbs, sprout with lettuce cream and lobster. A colorful plate of lush vegetables and herbs with delectable lobster meat on top of clear gelatin made from tomato. This amazing dish is full of sublime flavors.

Vegetable leaves and petals salad, herbs, sprout with lettuce cream and lobster

Red prawn on a seabed, fennel and coral emulsion was a giant prawn presented whole. The prawn was extremely tasty and the translucent watery broth with coral emulsion and sea weed cream that it sat on yields a profound features of the sea. The Black truffle glazed Hare ravioli with sautéed artichokes and trompette mushroom were raviolis stuffed with delicious hare and covered in foam of black truffle. The foams pungent truffleness was elegantly fused with other earthy component on the plate. Virrey fish with iodized sauce, king crab, raw tomatoes and saffron was cooked perfectly. It was tender and contained a wonderful amount of salinity. The basil and saffron cream gave the fish an extra layer of flavors while the different composition of tasty crab meat serves as an enticing supplement.

Black truffle glazed Hare ravioli with sautéed artichokes and trompette mushroom

Virrey fish with iodized sauce, king crab, raw tomatoes and saffron

For the main course marinated and charcoal, grilled venison, winter vegetables, persimmon and “biancoperla’ con cream was served. Succulent venison meat came with fresh salad with persimmon and blood orange and corn cream made from special type of corn from Italy. The mildness of the corn cream and the lightness of the salad was a great companion to the venison.

Finally, on to sweet courses! Shiso and mint leaves sorbet, acid touches and milk crisp has a palatable richness and refreshing acidity. The pistachio sponge cake was particularly delightful. Almonds and salt praline, apricot and rum ice cream was the main dessert. The sugary sweetness from the salted praline with caramel was curbed by the alcohol from therum ice cream and also helps balance this dessert. As a bonus, petites fours of classic Catalonian sweets concluded the meal.

Almonds and salt praline, apricot and rum ice cream

This tasting menu was well put together. From the beginning to the end, one course after another it has myriad of flavors and textures that comes together. Each dish has complexity, balance and an abundance of colors. Their interpretation of Modern Spanish cuisine was less experimental than the kinds that is currently sweeping the dining world. The wine pairing for 135 EUR comprised of six glasses of local Spanish wines were consummately designed to complement the food.

Joan Carles Ibáñez, the manager in charge of the dining room was on hand during this visit. Under his supervision the dining room operated flawlessly offering impeccable hospitality to the guest. Although the service was uptight, and almost robotic, the staff were extremely knowledgeable and accommodating. They explained every course and answered any questions clearly.

Wine Pairing:

A complete meal at Lasarte with the wine pairing will set you back 370 EUR per person which is still a tad below compared to other three star places in Paris and in the US. This is one of the priciest restaurant (if not the most) in Barcelona and in Spain. It caters to wealthy locals and tourist alike, but if taken to account the high level of cooking and professionalism of the personnel it was worth the amount paid.

The kitchen staff and the front of the house of a three Michelin star restaurant has a great deal of pressure to deliver perfection every day. However as the first restaurant in Barcelona to receive such accolade it has an added pressure that Chef Casagrande and his partner Joan Carles Ibáñez managed very well. They exceeded expectation by providing a stellar dining from start to finish.

The Pass

The Pass
807 Taft St.
Houston,TX 77019
(713) 628-9020
Website

In the last seven years Houston has continue to experience a culinary renaissance. Currently there is a plethora of restaurants helmed by talented chefs who have worked at some of finest kitchen in the country and abroad. These chefs brought their creativity for Houstonians to experience and enjoy. One such restaurant is The Pass, located in the Fourth Ward.

The Pass was conceived by chefs Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel Gardner as part of a two-concept restaurant under one roof called The Pass & Provision. The Pass is the fine dining part while the latter offers a la carte menu in a more relax setting. Both chef Gallivan and Siegel Gardner come from a strong cooking pedigree. Their experience includes stints at the kitchen of The Modern, Aquavit, Aureole and other notable New York City restaurants. On the same year the restaurant was opened, it was propelled to national prominence after Bon Appetite named it in their annual best new restaurant list occupying the number 6 spot.

Access to The Pass is through a thick easy to open metallic door located behind the hostess table in the front. Its softly-lit dining room has three rows of tables covered in neatly pressed cloth with dark sway cushy seats and carpeted floors. At the other end of the room is an open kitchen visible to the guest.

A five course tasting menu with an option to add three additional course is the only choice for dinner priced at $65. There is also a vegetarian version of the tasting menu available for the same price.

Dinner started immediately with the first course of Scallop Carpaccio- Grapefruit/Tobiko/Goat’s Milk. In this plate, chunks of lush scallops were drenched in delightful cream sauce of goat’s milk. The grapefruit’s sour acidity was smartly added not only to raise the flavor but also to serve as a balancer. I added an extra course of Foie Gras Torchon-Candied Vegetable Panettone/Orange. The torchon was buttery and flavorsome. A zesty sweetness supplied by the orange jam went well with all those richness from the torchon, while the delicate panettone provided a terrific vessel.

Following the foie gras, was the Tuna Belly-Crispy Beef Tendon/Black Sesame Bearnaise, which comprised of, two pieces of beef tendon crisp with chopped raw tuna belly stacked on top of each other and dressed in thick berniase sauce. This was a complete dish that had terrific flavors. I noticed the tuna was particularly high in quality and especially fatty .Next was the vegetarian course, and it was just as equally well-done as the previous dish. The Smoked Potato caramelle -Chanterelle/ Parmesan, consisted of caramelle stuffed with wonderful smoked potato filling, garnished with thin slices of chanterelle mushroom and shaved parmesan. The puree that the caramelle sat on added a sharp earthy element to it.

For the main course the Duck-Leg Meat Currywurst/Crispy Potato/Radicchio Jam was served. Scrumptious cuts of duck meat were packed with flavors. Other components on this plate appropriately played its role such as the raddchio jam that when eaten with the duck, provides a pleasant bitterness. It was coupled by the tasty currywurst which offered an extra hearty serving of protein.

A pre dessert of frozen pina colada ball was refreshing to the palate. Dessert of poached pear- Marzipan/Dark Chocolate was rather heavy. It had a mixture of fruity and sugary sweetness that was kept at bay by the bitter taste of the dark chocolate mousse.

This was an unconventional meal that defies the norm of a tasting-menu-only restaurant. There was no bread offering, the amuse bouche in the beginning was missing and so is the petites four in the end. All that aside the cooking is inventive, and the food is thoughtfully crafted with wonderful mixture of different taste. Every component on the plate seams to coexist in harmony with each other.

In addition to the $55 wine pairing, the drink list which is shared by both The Pass and Provision is sizable. They also have an extensive whiskey collection.

As Houston celebratory restaurant, and with a dining room of well-heeled city dwellers, the staff at The Pass made sure that each guest was properly cared for. Our table of four was handled with a faultless service, and our servers were cordial and competent.

Dinner at The Pass is on the high side for Houston and less pricier than New York or The Bay Area. Adding the extra course and drinks, the total is close to a $120 per person, which is still reasonable considering the quality of food, service, and the dining experience each guest received.

When talking about a great gastronomic cities in the US, New York, San Francisco, and the Bay Area, Chicago is at the forefront of the conversation. However Houston Texas, with its terrific restaurant scene, is slowly becoming a contending culinary hub. The city still lacks the tasting menu places as there is only a handful of them. Helping to fill the void is The Pass. This restaurant is not only worth a visit when in the city, but it also raises Houston’s dining profile.

Elske *

Elske
1350 W Randolph St,
Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 733-1314
Website

Last year, Chicago’s West Loop welcomed the Danish-inspired restaurant, Elske. Located along W Randolph Street, this was a great addition to a neighborhood with a bustling dining scene. As one of the most awaited opening in 2016, the restaurant did not disappoint. It was voted number two in Bon Appetite Best New Restaurant in 2017, a three star review from Chicago Tribune, and most recent accolade, a Michelin star. The owners are husband and wife David and Anna Posey who both worked at the Michelin starred Blackbird in Chicago. Prior to opening Elske, David held the position of chef de cuisine at Blackbird while Anna was a pastry chef at Publican.

The restaurant’s expansive space seats about fifty guests, and has large store front windows that looks out to the street. The dining room has uncovered dark wooden communal tables, walls of exposed brick, and smooth concrete for floors. At the front is the bar area located next to the open kitchen. On a good day, an outdoor space with a fire place doubles up as an additional dining space.

Elske has an a la carte menu that is inexpensive. There are no plates over $24. In addition, an affordable $85 tasting menu is quite appealing to my pocket, which is what perpetuated my visit.

The tasting menu started with Tea of lightly smoked fruits and vegetables, which was a cup of tea infused with subtle smoked vegetables and fruits flavors. This was followed by Broccoli and amaranth fritter with spicy date jams. A single crunchy bite of grainy fritter boasts a dynamic duo of both sweet and spicy. Duck liver tart with salted ramp and buckwheat was next. The decadent tart teases nice hints of brininess with a touch of bitterness.

The meal continued with an interesting dish called, Chilled zucchini and buttermilk cream with braised pistachio, blueberries and elder, which were thinly sliced chilled zucchinis blanketed in thick cream. The cream has a mixture of sour, sweet, and nuttiness that worked superbly with the zucchini’s cold element. Roasted sturgeon with fried artichoke, caviar and lovage came afterwards. The sturgeon was roasted impeccably, it was tender and moist. The lovage sauce with caviar provided the saltiness, elevating the fish, while the fried artichoke makes fine accompaniment.

Grilled Vegas strip steak with braised dandelion greens, smoked beef and roasted marrow was the main course. The steak was scrumptious, packed with flavors, and has delightful presence of smokiness. Adding richness to the dish, was the roasted bone marrow consommé.

Frozen fennel jelly with mint followed the main dish. This concoction was a tongue soothing cube of jelly mint that helps rinse the palate off savory remnants. For dessert, Roasted peach sorbet, frozen yogurt, rose and bitter almonds was served. The peach sorbet went perfectly well with the yogurt, creating a pleasant blend of cold fruitiness and sourness. The garnished of dehydrated rose petal added texture.

Needless to say, this was quite the enjoyable meal. The dishes were creative and refined using cooking techniques that are evident of experienced chefs. The flavor combination was unique but made sense as it rightfully complemented each other. Though the restaurant served “New American” cuisine with Danish influence, I find that the flavor profile leans more towards Nordic. The wine pairing was also decently priced at $45, and comprised of five glasses. It was mostly European wines with the exception of the red wine paired with the steak, which came from California.

Wine Pairing:

After dining at the three Michelin starred Grace the previous night, I wanted something informal and relaxing. Elske was the right place. I had an early dinner on this particular visit and was seated at the bar. The bartender that evening was genuinely friendly and conversant. When I started my meal there were a few tables occupied but as the night progressed, the dining room and bar filled up fairly quick. Despite the sudden influx of patrons at this time, the service did not falter.

There is a growing number of restaurants opening up in the past few years that offers quality food in strip down settings. From Paris to New York, this type of dining trend has been well received by the masses. In Chicago, such restaurant came in the form of Elske where I was treated with fine dining fare without the prentious atmosphere.

2016 Dining Recap

Having visited a handful of Michelin starred, World’s 50 Best and other top restaurants in Asia and Europe, 2016 was great dining year. My journey began at Hong Kong where I dined at Lung King Heen, the very first three Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in the world. Needless to say, it had an extremely high quality Cantonese food. The restaurants location on the fourth floor of the Four Season hotel boasts a panoramic view of Victoria Harbor. The two Michelin-starred Amber at Landmark Mandarin Oriental offers a terrific weekend wine lunch which consists of five courses paired with four glasses of wine. This was one of the best deals out there at 928 HKD for a restaurant at this caliber. Dinner at the L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (the only of the L’Ateliers with three Michelin stars) was also quite superb.

I waited in queue for hours at Tim Ho Wan in Sham Shui Po, which at that time was the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world (until that distinction was awarded to Singapore’s Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken in the summer of last year). The dim sum was tasty and I enjoyed every single dish that I had. Frog legs and chicken congee at Tasty Congee & Wuntun Noodle Shop in the IFC was nothing short of delicious. Even better was the chicken and fish congee at the concierge recommended Sang Kee Congee Shop in Sheung Wan. 208 Ducento Otto serves up wonderful cocktails while Angel Share Whisky Bar & Restaurant and its expansive list of whisky is a must-visit for enthusiast while in Hong Kong.

That same journey through Asia led me to Tokyo, Japan. I had my very first meal in this sprawling metropolis at RyuGin, Chef Seiji Yamamoto’s flagship restaurant which has three Michelin stars and ranked number 31 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant. The modern kaiseki that it serves is a reflection of the agricultural bounty of Japan. With each dish skillfully prepared, this was one of the best meals I’ve had. In Ginza, the Omakase at the three Michelin-starred Sushi Yoshitake did not disappoint. The fish and other seafood used in every single piece of Nagiris were extremely fresh. Sushi might be star of the show at this restaurant, but the cooked dishes were equally sublime. It was highlighted by the abalone liver sauce mixed with sushi rice which was a mind-blowing dish that still resonates in my memory.

Hideki Ishikawa is Japan’s most decorated chef/restaurateur with three restaurants under his belt totaling eight Michelin stars. He also has the distinction shared by the likes of the Robuchon’s , the Keller’s and the Ducasse’s to have two restaurants at the same with the maximum rating from the Michelin guide. At his eponymous Ishikawa, I was served a wonderful contemporary style kaiseki that shows simplicity with plenty of subtle flavors. I also visited Kohaku the other three star restaurant of Chef Ishikawa, which is located in the same area and within walking distance from each other. The kitchen is under Koji Koizumi a disciple of Chef Ishikawa. There are many of similarities between them, but the two are distinctly different at the same time. Kohaku is a more modern prepared kaiseki that incorporate foreign ingredients, which are not usually use in Japanese cuisine.

Japan is surprisingly home to one of the finest French restaurant outside of France. Others can argue that it might better than its home country due to the high quality of ingredients it uses produced by Japan. Many of the top French chefs has an outpost sprinkled throughout country, but a large number of them are concentrated in Tokyo. I had a superb tasting menu at Chef Pierre Gaganaire, Two restaurant Peirre Gagnaire Au Tokyo on the 35floor of the ANA Intercontinental, which was awarded two Michelin stars. Each plate were carefully crafted, using only the finest local ingredients. As a bonus, guests enjoyed the scenic view of the whole city as the backdrop while dining. In Roppongi Hills, I dined at Chef of the Century Joel Robochon L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. Along with Paris, the Tokyo branch is one of the first L’Ateliers. Having previously gone to the Hong Kong location, these two Michelin starred restaurant are a lot more casual, yet the quality of food is equally top-notched.

Inside the train station in Ginza, resides a minuscule ramen shop called Kagari Echika, which has garnered a lot of following. They served me tasty bowl of ramen, with a broth that has a certain delightful creaminess. In Shinjuku, high above the mall of the train station is Tenichi, where I had some delicate fried tempura accompanied with fresh sashimi. While at Sushi Mamire, I was served with affordable yet enjoyable pieces of sushi and rolls. Pagliaccio Due in Shiba, is an Italian restaurant that serves pleasant dishes like the Seafood Rissotto, and the spaghetti with fish. Night caps in the New York Bar at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, were made lively with tunes from a funky jazz show. Soon after I feasted with the hotel famous weekend brunch. Finally, visiting Japan is not complete without trying the world famous Kobe beef. At Kobe Beef Kaiseki 511, I had a magical experience without breaking the bank. The beef was as good as advertised, and every bite was heavenly like cotton candy that melts in the mouth.

From Izakaya’s, to noodle shops, to high end kaiseki, sushi (as well as low end), and to fine French restaurants, I had the greatest time dining in Tokyo. The uncompromising use of quality ingredients in this city restaurant makes Tokyo the gastronomic capital of the world. The two weeks I spent there was simply not enough.

The next stop in my search and passion for fine dining was a short trip to Basel, Switzerland. I had the opportunity to dine at the three Michelin star, Cheval Blanc. The restaurant is located in one of Europe’s oldest hotel Le Trois Rois. Bavarian chef Pete Knogl, is in charge of the kitchen and under his leadership Cheval Blanc was elevated to culinary stardom. The tasting menu has global influences and shows the precision cooking technique of Chef Knogl. Each dish was light and has a fantastic complex combination of flavors and textures.

I couldn’t end 2016 without grazing the home front for some great eats. After all, no one can beat New York City in anything, (at least to a New Yorker that is). I had very good meals at the Upper East Side’s, The NUAA. This beautifully decorated restaurant serves refined Thai fare that’s geared towards the Western palate. Last year, I saw an onslaught of new eateries opening up in the Financial District improving the neighborhood’s restaurants scene. Among them is Eataly Downtown which opened to the public last summer. Much smaller than its older siblings in the Flatiron, this mega food market brought a slew of dining options that includes another outlet of the seafood haven, Il Pesce. The restaurant offers appetizing sustainable seafood prepared in the simplest form. As the last stop of my 2016 journey, West Village Carma Asian Tapas, served an unmatchable creative Far Eastern fare in small plate format. I enjoyed the way the kitchen recreated classic Chinese dishes, as well as using other Western ingredients that aren’t usually found in Asian cooking.

Though 2016 didn’t boast much of my hometown’s variety of eateries, it was a star studded year of dining in the international level. Overall, I would say it was great and successful year of eating. I’m looking forward to an even better 2017 where I plan to focus on New York City, its outer boroughs and state side. Hopefully, I can sprinkle few international trips here and there.

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RyuGin ***

RyuGin
7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato
Tokyo, Japan
106 0032
+81 3-3423-8006
Official Site

It is the uncompromising standard of the Japanese culture of using only the finest ingredients in their culinary master pieces that has produced world renowned restaurants biggest names in the culinary world. Japan is booming with multitudes of up and coming places to wine and dine. Tokyo, the capital, is not only the gastronomic epicenter of the nation, but also in the world. The city has more Michelin stars than anywhere else on this planet, and holds the record with thirteen restaurants awarded the three-star status. One particular three star restaurant that piqued my interest was RyuGin in Roppongi.

The restaurant opened in 2003 by a very talented chef, Seiji Yamamoto, who previously spent eleven years at the ultra-traditional Aoyagi in Tokyo. RyuGin received two stars in 2009 from the Tokyo’s Michelin guides inaugural edition and then the third star in 2010 which it has maintained since. Regarded among the top dining destination the restaurant is constantly included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and in Asia’s 50 Best.

Japanese restaurants require guests to be on time when it comes to their reservation and many do not have a waiting area for those arriving early. RyuGin is different, when I arrived about ten minutes early I was escorted to a second floor waiting area, also known as their tea room. The cozy room had a live owl enclosed behind the bar. When my table was ready the hostess led me to a quiet dining room with no windows. The atmosphere was nothing short of serene. A thick black cloth covered the table and chairs with wooden backrests were surprisingly comfortable. The space is small, with only eighteen seats, and has a separate private room with its own sliding door. Like many Japanese three Michelin starred restaurants in Tokyo, this lacks the opulence interior that their western counterparts have. Only open during dinner service, RyuGin offers a keiseki menu at YEN 27000(a shorter version for YEN 21000 also available only after 9 pm).

“Beginning with a variety of Sensation. Seasonality, Aroma, Temperature, Texture and Assemblage” was the appetizer course which started the meal. It came in two parts, first was the Cod Milt, Turnip Yuzu. This bowl of Japanese delicacy had an interesting custard like texture. The milt’s richness was complemented well by the yuzu tea zest that serves as the broth. The second was a salad, Surf Clams, Assorted Vegetables and Dried Sea Cucumber. The mildness of the clams where fittingly mixed with wonderful vegetables. Dried sea cucumbers were added to give the dish some crunch.

The next course was “Longing for The Moment, Winter Story. Bathing Hotpot”Matsuba Crab and Seiko Crab. This was a flavorful hot pot with two delicious type of crab meat. Served on a separate plate was a crab claw with exposed meat, I was instructed by my server to dip it in the hot pot for the meat to absorb the crab infused broth. Extremely fresh bonito, red rock fish and squid sashimi makes up the “Sashimi: A Message from the Coast of Japan. Richness of the Sea, Tidal Current” Ocean Delicacy Displayed in 3 Plates. This seafood pleasure had an assortment of features, like the vibrant reddish meat of the bonito which has a unique taste while the red rock fish was full of beautiful fatty flavors. The squid on the other hand had a slight sweetness that went along with the rubbery textures.

That was followed by “Binchotan- A Powerful Scent of Charcoal grill” Grilled Sea Pech Seasoned with Assortment of Chilli Powder and Sprinkled Chestnut . The sea perch was grilled elegantly maintaining its delicateness. Chestnuts and other herbs not only gave the fish an additional crust, but also exuded an appealing fragrance. Giving this course a different aspect was shark fin fried tempura style with shiso leaf and uni, a terrific crispiness which had excellent flavors that included some slight herbal notes.

Then came “What’s inside once you open the lid… A sense of relaxation” “Goemon Tofu” “Sprinkled Chestnut”. The attributes were very much akin to tofu, but more refined and of greater quality. Chestnuts added texture and also provided the tofu its distinct sweetness.

The meal continued on with the “Grace of the Hometown as Ambassador of Kagawa’s Heritage” Famous Sanuki Olive Beef with small balls, a tribute to the prefecture of Kagawa, home to olives and high quality beef called sanuki that had been fed part of olives. This outstanding dish was prepared by smoking the beef in olives, giving the gorgeous meat an extra touch of smoky olive flavor. There was a side of olive salt which was interesting and quail eggs which was unexpectedly good when eaten with the beef.A rice dish towards the end followed by a soup was the typical order in a keiseki meal. It was combined in “The land of Rice plant. Pleasure of eating off the same trencher “New Rice”.Sea urchin Rice. National Flower of Japan “Chrysanthemum” Soup. Served on a round wooden tray was a rice bowl topped with decadent Hokkaido sea urchin and a bowl of miso soup. The soup had a clear and clean taste. For visual appeal and aesthetic, in the soup was a piece of tofu that was methodically cut in a shape of chrysanthemum, homage to Japan’s national flower.

Moving on, the pre desert course was a mouthful to read off the menu, but did not disappoint. The “Lusciousness. Coolness, Warmth, Playful Spirits, Nostalgia and Temptation” Sunshine Filtering through Foliage, Mandarin Sanshou definitely lived up to its name. On the plate was a perfectly peeled mandarin with black tea ice cream and sprinkled with sanshou. It has a nice contrast of spiciness and sour sweet the small cubes of Japanese cheese were spread throughout balancing the sweetness of the sauce made from wasanbon. This was a simple dish but with a lot of complexity. For dessert, Oryzae “National Fungus” Pride of Japan. Hot Sake and Cold Sake Sweet Flavors . An inventive method in creating a soufflé made from sake. The soufflé had an airy texture was served warm where the sake could be profoundly recognized, the same can be said about the ice cream. There was a good sweetness in both while also having a slight bitterness. Chef Yamamoto showcased the versatility of sake by using it as the main component of a sweet dish was a stroke of genius. Finally ending the meal was a fantastic bowl of matcha tea.

Every plate of each course in this kaiseki menu is chef’s Yamamoto reflection of the agricultural richness of Japan. The flavor profiles are strictly Japanese, subtle and minimalist but prepared with modern techniques. There was a high standard of cooking and creativity shown. The quality of ingredients is second to none as they only use the finest seasonal ingredients that were sourced locally and throughout Japan. From the food preparation to kitchenware all the way to the sequences of dishes that follows the traditional kaiseki there were many intricate details that were executed with precision. Accompanying beverage pairing, consisting of eight glasses of European wines and sakes were paired brilliantly. Each drink brought a different dimension of taste at the end of every bite.

WIne Pairing:

Throughout my meal I was served by an English speaking staff who also handled a large majority of foreign guests that were dining during my visit. Its Japanese counterpart was equally pleasant and tried their best to communicate at a rare time when they were the ones that brought my food. Service was focused yet at the same time approachable with a willingness to engage in quick conversation without taking too much of the guests time. On my way out I was handed a parting gift, a bottle containing water from Mount Fuji. Before reaching the exit Chef Yamamoto came out hurriedly to say his goodbye, thanking me and to see me out the door. The chef and the staff at RyuGin exemplify the humbleness of Japanese hospitality.

Many self-proclaimed amazing restaurants rely on their aesthetics for measure, but the great ones will always rely on the food they serve. Authentic gems such as New York’s Eleven Madison Park, Peru’s Central and Italy’s Osteria Francescana, all serve muti-course menus that tell tales of their roots. Chef Yamamoto’s creations are grounded by his culture, and yet his ability to embrace the modernity that surrounds him, and express this fusion into his ingredients, has garnered him many praises. His accomplishments throughout the years created a mini restaurant empire that includes the two Michelin starred Tenku RyuGin in Hong Kong and Syoun RyuGin in Taipei. His devotion still lies in Tokyo where he continues to run the kitchen. With a plethora of great places to eat in Tokyo it was very difficult to choose one, but without the journey of trying many other places, I wouldn’t have experience the magic of RyuGin. It has left an incredible impression on me, and will consider my dining experience there one of the most unique and unforgettable.

Steirereck **

Steirereck
Am Heuemarkt 2A/im Stadtpark
A-1030 Vienna, Austria
+43 713 31 68
Official Site

Austria’s capital city of Vienna is the cultural center of the nation. It is the birthplace of Viennese cuisine and the epicenter of Austrian gastronomy. There are nine venues awarded a Michelin star including Steirereck, the country’s most decorated restaurant and is considered among the very best in the world. Set along the River Wein in Stadpark, it has two Michelin stars, a score of 19/20 from Gault Millau and ranked number 15 in the San Pelligrino’s 50 Best Restaurant the Worlds list for 2015. The man responsible for its global ascension is Chef Heinz Reitbauer. He perfected his skills cooking under some of Europe’s greatest chefs like Anton Mosimann, Alain Chapel and Joel Robuchon before taking over Steirereck from his parents’ back 2005 when the restaurant was relocated to the capital.

In 2014 Steirereck was expanded adding more space that also houses another restaurant called Meierei Stadpark which faces more towards the river. The façade was given modern futuristic aspect, built with metals that reflect the lush greenery of the park. After entering the restaurant, guests are drawn to the kitchen next to the hostess desk where Chef Reitbauer directs his brigade. The swerved layout of the dining room provided a personal space with unformed round tables with ample distance from one another. Grey herringbone chairs gave a clean contrast to the white ceilings, blonde wood paneled walls and ivory mosaic tiled floorings while the large windows had the park as its back drop setting the tone for an intimate dining space.

Serving modern Austrian cuisine, Steirereck offers a six, seven course tasting menu and a la carte for both lunch and dinner. Additionally, there is a shorter five course option available for lunch only. The seven-course EUR 142 was the choice on my visit. I was served a made to order refreshing non-alcoholic aperitif prior to starting the meal. Then came a parade of small bites made from fish, sea food, vegetables, and eggs. Afterwards a cart of an assortment of freshly baked bread was rolled in-front of me.

The first course, CARROTS-Young Carrots with Fennel, Coconut & ‘Reinanke’, glazed in its own juice, ginger and lemon, yielding the carrots with some citric spiciness. “Reinanke” or white fish was just another facet to this dish that went well with all the other elements. Served two ways was the second course of CRAYFISH- Crayfish with eggplant, hemp & fennel pollen. A whole roasted crayfish cut in half was a bit messy and out of place for a fine dining considering that using both hands to crack shells in order to get to the meat but never the less the crayfish was very good. The other was with eggplant; it had very good textures with some lime undertones. Then came the third course, TENCH- Tench with Cauliflower, Spelt Sprout and Isabella Grapes. The tench was confit in brown butter which added some richness to the muddy essence of the fish.

Tasting Menu:

After all the sea food courses were finished, the tasting proceeded with the next two courses consisting of land proteins. PHEASANT-Pheasant with Salted Lemon-braised Onions, Chard & Ground cherry, a confit of lean pheasant breast and legs that was soft and scrumptious. It was enriched with sauce from potato with Peperoncini, baby leeks, and salted lemon. The main course was the MILK FED VEAL-Milk-Fed Veal with Young Cabbage, Turnip & Bone Marrow, the veal was cooked to perfection, juicy, and tender. The vegetables that were braised and grilled was a great addition to a flavorful veal. There was also a hint of buttery context on the plate lurking in the background of every bite.

Instead of having the traditional cheese course I had the FRESH CHEESE–Sweetened Vanilla, Fresh Cheese, with Physalis and Cereal. The dish was prepared on my table, one at a time the server slowly put together all the components while explaining about the dish. A more savory sweet course that has different types of fresh cheese, one was frozen darkened by black sesame seed and with hint of coconut the other was with unpasteurized vanilla. It also had dried Physalis for added textures and cherry sweetness. The dessert course was ROTER MOND- Roter mond apple and preserved walnut with spiced Amaranth, this was a Russian apple that has a distinct redness. Though sweet it also has some tartness, sour cream was added to balance the fruity nature. There were traces of gingery taste and preserved walnuts were for additional crunchy textures. Then finally the sweet petites course of chocolates and small pastries rounds up the tasting.

This seven course tasting menu was with a wine pairing for additional EUR 89. The pairing consisted of all Austrian wines which I applauded as Austria makes excellent wines. Most of my meals in Europe the wine pairing usually included a French wine but the sommelier at Steirereck fittingly enough paired it with beautiful local wines that not only enhanced each dish but was also enjoyable on its own. Even the one cocktail, Limoncello , that was paired with the cheese course had a pleasing alcoholic zest to go with it.

Lasting three hours, the tasting menu allowed Chef Reitbauer to display his cooking repertoire to his guests. His attention to detail and creativity to develop a plate with a complexity that involves putting together different elements produces interesting flavor combinations. He put a lot of emphasis on vegetables as all the savory courses included different root and leafy veggies. The ingredients are quality and was sourced from the chefs own farm and other local farmers.

While Chef Reitbauer is responsible for the kitchen, the dining room is under the guidance of his wife Brigit Reitbauer. She was handling the multinational guest at the dining room from the beginning, in the middle of the meal, all the way to the end with assurance that each guest will have an excellent dining experienced. The staff was efficient, cordial and well trained. Service was flawless and is expected from a restaurant of this stature.

Wine Pairing:

At Steirereck, Chef Reitbauer was able to provide a dining experience that is unique to Vienna. He is redefining Austrian cuisine and recreating classic Viennese fare while showcasing local ingredients. With this, he sets the restaurant apart from the handful of Michelin starred places in Vienna as it sits on the pinnacle of the dining echelon. Steirereck has been “THE” dining destination in the country for some time now and will continue to be in years to come.

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Ilili

Ilili
236 5th Ave
New York,NY 10001
(212)683-2929
Official Site

Lebanese cuisine is rarely mentioned in the same sentence as high-end dining in New York City. It’s mostly associated with small falafel shops and food carts. Up to this day there are still only a handful of venues, such as Al Bustan and Almayass. So in 2007, when Lebanese born chef, Phillipe Massoud opened the restaurant Ilili steps away from Madison Square Park, in the Flatirion District, it was an ambitious undertaking that was eventually followed by success and consequently was embraced by the dining public.

Visible along Fifth Avenue passerby’s can’t help but notice the bustling dining room of Ilili, occupying a huge space that can seat at least 200 diners. Guests are greeted by a spacious lounge with wood panel walls, suede benches, and long bar in back with a thick stone top. The main dining room is designed with an abundance of wood and dominated by uncovered large round tables with cherry red armless chairs. The room’s high ceilings create an echo that can get loud on busy nights but that’s what gives Ilili its fun atmosphere. Tucked in the corner of the room is chamber that has more of an intimate settings and much quieter compared to the main dining room, the tables are covered in white cloth are setup for two people.

Leading the kitchen at Ilili is Chef Massoud. He left Beirut for New York at a young age to escape the civil war and after college; his love for Lebanese cuisine led him back to Lebanon cooking with some of the country’s best chefs. He returned to the US in the late 90’s to head the kitchen at Neyla in Washington D.C. before settling in New York.

Ilili offers a la carte lunch and dinner menu to go along with their $25 lunch pre fixe special and the lounge offers small bites and drinks. Small plates or Mezzes are separated in hot and cold. For the hot mezzes I had an excellent Octopus-lamb bacon, Piquillo peppers, garbanzo beans, eggplant. Firm but tender octopus meat was flavored beautifully with the intensity of the lamb bacon. Meanwhile the grapes gave it a touch of sweetness along with the vegetables creating a balanced dish. The Riz-Lebanese rice, toasted vermicelli, mixed nuts was more of an accompaniment with the main dish and exuded wonderful aromas. Cold mezzes to dip Ilili’s freshly baked warm pita bread were the Mouhamara- walnuts, sundried peppers, pomegranate molasses and the Hommus-chickpea puree, tahini, lemon and olive oil. The Mouhamara’s has a complexity that includes some tanginess and sweetness while the hommus was slightly refined than a regular one. Presented neatly before being mix by the server the Chankleesh –feta cheese, onions, tomato and zaatar . The assortment of spices and herbs, tomato and onions had the character of a salsa and with the addition of the feta cheese giving it another dimension.

Some of the entrée that I’ve had were the Mixed Grill-chicken shish taok, beef kebab, kafta lamb chops, garlic whip trio, seasonal grilled vegetables, a carnivore delight for two. It’s a plate of nothing but perfectly grilled meats. With both beef kebab and lamb chops that are extremely moist and flavorful and the chicken and lamb sausage was terrific. Chicken Taouk Duo-chicken breast & thigh, sumac, tender juicy chicken skewered and grilled with aromatics seasonings.

Served as a whole from head to tail, Citrus Trout-citrus cells, orange tahini, arugula, smoked almonds, was grilled perfectly and placed on top of a light cream citrus sauce. The orange and grapefruit cells added another level of acidity that went well with the trout. The lone non-meat entrée was the Semolina Gnocchi-yogurt, pine nut, orange zest. It had an excellent hint of orange that paired delightfully with the sourness and thickness of the yogurt used to blanket the gnocchi. A garnish of pine nuts was added for extra texture.

Warm Date Cake with coconut sorbet, carob, chocolate was the one sweet plate that highlighted the dessert. The duo of warm and sweet with refreshing cool sorbet played on the palate in both temperature and flavors without being muddled. Pieces of carob and melted chocolate were brushed on the plate where the cake and sorbet sat on top and added some sweetness.

Chef Massoud reinterpreted classic Lebanese cuisine using non-traditional ingredients and incorporating his creative approach with a Mediterranean twist while keeping the flavor profile. Cooking contains a lot of grilling and searing, yogurt, fruits and vegetables appeared constantly on the plate. Paired wines and drinks are tailor fitted with Ilili’s food. It’s vast list was curated with wines from different parts of the globe while also focusing on local Lebanese wines and “Arak” traditional spirits in the Middle East. Its cocktail program is another strong point. The drinks are creative, one of my all-time favorites “From Beirut with Passion” a refreshing fruitiness that also can be dangerous if you don’t take note on how many you’ve had.

Visiting to dine or to have drinks Ilili’s staff shares an enthusiastic approach to each guest. The front of the house greets everyone that comes through the door with a huge smile while the dining room personnel provides service that is efficient and personable without being too patronizing. With a packed dining room that can get a bit loud, confusion and not being on the same page can occur but the staff is able to handle this without any issues.

This restaurant had polished a humble cuisine with sophistication and with a price tag to go along with it that New Yorkers are willing to pay. For the past eight years they have created a following of locals and celebrities alike. Its kitchens cooking techniques, mixologists artistic libations draw inspiration from Lebanon and the restaurants urbane atmosphere make Ilili one of the finest in the city for haute Lebanese dining places.

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