New York City neighborhoods are distinguished by their acronyms, like “FiDi” or the Financial District and “SoHo” or South of Houston. “NoLiTa,” North of Little Italy was once part of Little Italy but with gentrification and the change that it experienced, NoLiTa has became a whole new neighborhood. It’s also home to a modern French Bistro restaurant, Tartinery Nolita. What an irony it is for a French bistro to be located in an area once known almost exclusively for authentic Italian cuisine. Tartinery specializes in tartines, open faced sandwiches or long thinly sliced pieces of bread topped with garnishes and/or a variety of fancy spreads. The restaurant’s name is of course derived from its specialty.
If you’re not paying attention you may miss the restaurant which is located along Mulberry St. It’s a modern store front with a lively crowd that is viewable from the outside. This bi-level restaurant has a modern yet rustic interior with a subdued color palette of black and dark-brown. . Tartinery is divided into 2 sections for guests to dine. Diners share the top level (the street level) with the bar. Your first view as you enter is a long concrete bar against a wall. If you look long enough you’ll see that the restaurant’s name is spelled in green bottles on the wall behind the bar. At the end of the bar to the right the menu is written in chalk on a black wall. Opposite the bar are round wooden tables with chairs against a long bench by the window. Diners facing the window have a great view of the people traffic outside. Guests can opt to take the stairs to the restaurant’s subterranean dining room. The dining room is cubed in with high red brick walls, covered with black metal fencing and photographs hanging high above the walls. In the middle of the space is a small sparsely blossomed tree that resembles the White Tree of Gondor in the Lord of the Ring movies series. The tree is surrounded by black numbered tables with a black leather bench that runs along the wall of the dining room. On a busy day the noise level is heightened due to room’s dimensions; but during the weeknights which tend to be slow, it is a great place to have a serene dinner.
Tartinery’s tartines are fancy, creative, and delicious; the price ranges from $8 – &19. The brunch tartine, Benedict with eggs and smoked salmon paired with mushroom is a tasty, the quintessential brunch dish; the salmon is smoked to perfection. On one dinner visit I had the Confit de Canard; duck confit, cucumber, scallions and plum sauce and Thon Cru, shaved raw tuna with wasabi mayo, fennel, scallions, lemon juice, and olive oil. The pulled duck meat on the confit dish was moist and soft while the plum sauce gave the dish a great depth of flavor. The Thon Cru has a nice taste provided by the tuna and wasabi mayo combination. I’ve also tasted the Moza, fresh mozzerella with vine tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and fresh basil. I thoroughly enjoyed it, the dish was simple but there is something special about the mozzarella on the tartine. The restaurant offers three kinds of breads for the tartine: Country Peasant, Health Multigrain (from Eli’s Bread) or Rustic Sourdough (from Poilane Bakery.) Tartines can serve as an entrée or an appetizer to be shared.
Tartines are the resturant’s main focus but their entrees and desserts are also impressive. Two noteworthy entrees were the Chicken Paillard, grilled chicken bedded with mixed vegetables and the Risotto Aux Crevettes, prawns and risotto seasoned with white wine and fresh lemon. The Paillard is a great choice for the health conscious eaters, perfectly cooked chicken breasts with an array of fresh greens. The risotto is probably one of the best that I’ve had so far, it has a buttery taste that I enjoyed. Also, the Soupe A L’Oignon Gratinee or French onion soup is not like any other onion soup I’ve tasted. First of all the soup is not covered in cheese like most onion soups and the cheese with the onions in the soup gives it a delicious cheesy oniony taste. The home made desert, like the Tarte Tatin apple tart with vanilla ice cream was amazing. The Clafoutis which was recommended by the server was very good as well.
Tartinery’s wine list is decent with wines mainly from France (a few from Italy) made to be paired with the tartines. Pink Sangria made with rosé wine is something to have when eating here. The taste is fruity but not as sweet as the red or white sangria. There is also a juice bar available during lunch time where guest can mix and match fresh fruits to create their own custom mixes.
Open face sandwiches are mainly served as hors d’oeuvres in the US, but with a restaurant like Tartinery it can be whole meal which is the case in France. Though I’m pretty sure that the tartines are different there, but who needs to cross the Atlantic if all it takes is a ride on the 6 train to Spring St?
Tartinery Nolita
209 Mulberry St
New York, NY 10012
(212) 300-5838
Official Site
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